When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Hello all, I have a few questions about the jb4 software that I haven't been able to get answered...probably bc its buried in the other thread😉 When I select either map 0, 1 or 2, they all display the same numbers under 'user adjustment'. From what Ive read, map 0 disables jb4, map 1 is +4, and map 2 is +5psi. The numbers Im referring to are the boost numbers under 'map 6 boost', also why does it say map 6 if there is no map 6 yet for is200t? I made sure the software was up to date with bms, and I do notice performance differences when I adjust the boost. I changed the boost to +6 from 3k to 6k and noticed more low end torque but less top end hp, and it also made 0-60 worse! Changed it back to +5 and less low end but 6-60 improves. sorry if this is noob, Im new to tuning and this program.
As you can see in that screen. It says MAP 6 as in any customization's you make in there will be your Map 6. So whatever is saved in those settings if you select Map 6 on the map selection page then the values you plugged in will be used. Don't recommend doing that unless you really know what you're doing.
I need a little bit of help here. I finished identifying my IS200T ECU, but when I search for compatible tune to flash I only see Tacoma related tunes on the utility. I've gone through the instructions step by step, but I can't figure out what am I missing here in order to see IS200T/300 tune files.
I need a little bit of help here. I finished identifying my IS200T ECU, but when I search for compatible tune to flash I only see Tacoma related tunes on the utility. I've gone through the instructions step by step, but I can't figure out what am I missing here in order to see IS200T/300 tune files.
You need to read everything into a file and send it to OV. They'll send the correct tune file back for you to load into the flashing app.
The Read function is available on p5flash starting version 1.2.1 only, based on my experience.
Do u hav actual numbers of the comparison? Dyno tests? Quarter miles? 0-60s? They can be super helpful.
I hardly find anybody posting these.
Unfortunetly, I won't be able to produce any actual power numbers.
I'm interested in improving daily drivability and long term usability.
Another update:
Took a glance at KCLV after driving ~150miles (90% highway, 105' from sea level (low elevation), Top-tier gas 93 (Costco)) and it is less than optimal.
Values between 24-25 is the most optimal for the engine.
Anything below 15 is where engine is beginning to lose power.
Engine knock sensor is looking consistent, no complaints there.
OVTune 1.01G
KCLV: 13.0
Knock sensor: -3
Stock
KCLV: 21.3 - 22.5
Knock sensor: -3
ISF guys & RRRacing on KCLV:
Originally Posted by Weapon F
I know you've got some pretty good advice, especially regarding DA which is one of the most important factors when drag racing any vehicle as well as learning how to launch your ISF in order to get that low 60ft time, which takes some practice the mere fact that FBO GT Mustang ran poor times also shows that there's a lot more going on.
There are several other factors that have been discussed but not in detail. Two big factors for me 1.where the car came from a high elevation and how the car was driven most likely like a little old lady from Pasadena lol. I know Lubuxracer touched on subject earlier. For 85k miles your ISF ecu has learned how maximize its performance in two critical ways. First, how the car was driven? If the previous owner really baby the car never drove it aggressively used it more let's say as a daily commuter car more like ES or LS no offense to either of those two cars just never really drove the car hard your ecu has become accustomed to operating in those parameters. Like Lubuxracer stated earlier he may have a glaze the motor, the ECU has learned his driving habits along altitude where your F came from combined these two or three issues you can have a vehicle that has been trained over time to create less power.
So you need to retrain your ECU to produce more horsepower and one of the ways to help do this is to increase your KCLV which stands for “Knock Correction Learn Value.” It is simply a long term ignition correction factor. Reset your ECU, the KCLV goes to 15 you want it at 20 or higher. Rafi, from RR RACING recommend this to anyone who installing tune especially anyone who has low KCLV numbers. I remember reading back in 2016 ISF owners living in high elevations where showing low KCLV numbers below 15, low number usually mean less horsepower.
How to increase your KCLV? well its pretty simple. First reset ecu, Do several long pulls in 4 gear over 120mph safely, the higher the better. Then do same thing over again this time in 7 and 8th gear long pulls now you dont have to hit 150mph you just need to create highload situation let's say 90+mph. In order to check your kclv numbers you need techstream if you don't have access to techstream then you can bring it to your local dealership or shop that has techstream to get your number.
You may have excessive carbon build up in throttle body, intake manfold etc I've been using this product Seafoam for years one can goes in into gas tank and another can of seafoam intake cleaner comes with tube you incert into intake tube just before the throttle body. Spray the can while the car is on it will produce a lot of smoke don't worry about it it's just burning off excess carbon etc off. Seafoam Works great just follow instructions. Go on YouTube and see how it works.
Sorry for the long post hopefully this helps. I feel you will definitely see a difference in power levels just by retraining your ECU and once you clean the intake as well as your fuel injectors with the seafoam cleaner that I mentioned you will see additional power it's not going to be a huge jump but definitely feel difference in power and responsiveness
Im a little bit older than most guys here I'm 53yrs old and like Lubuxracer or flowrider We have all been around cars for well over 30 years. If you take to 2 identical cars one that's been driven very gingerly never taken up to speed versus one that's been aggressively driven you will see the one that's been driven gingerly will be slower car every time.
Unfortunetly, I won't be able to produce any actual power numbers.
I'm interested in improving daily drivability and long term usability.
Another update:
Took a glance at KCLV after driving ~150miles (90% highway, 105' from sea level (low elevation), Top-tier gas 93 (Costco)) and it is less than optimal.
Values between 24-25 is the most optimal for the engine.
Anything below 15 is where engine is beginning to lose power.
Engine knock sensor is looking consistent, no complaints there.
OVTune 1.01G
KCLV: 13.0
Knock sensor: -3
Stock
KCLV: 21.3 - 22.5
Knock sensor: -3
ISF guys & RRRacing on KCLV:
Does the KCLV mean anything for reliability or is it just for power? It sounds like we can increase the KCLV from the post you quoted but i’m not sure if im understanding that correctly
Does the KCLV mean anything for reliability or is it just for power? It sounds like we can increase the KCLV from the post you quoted but i’m not sure if im understanding that correctly
Knock sensor values is mainly for immediate engine health.
KCLV is for how well the engine (power-wise) can perform in current conditions and will learn/adjust accordingly.
For long-term reliability, personal preference: I don't want the 8AR running anything lower than 15 (learning value) given my conditions.
Since I'm not in a high elevation and/or feeding it poor gas.
Lower KCLV values are also affected by carbon buildup. Since the OVTune is very recent, I have ruled that out.
I'm expecting higher numbers (15-18) but realistically lower than stock since this is a tune after all.
Yes the values can be improved but will shortly return back to where it is averaging.
Unfortunetly, I won't be able to produce any actual power numbers.
I'm interested in improving daily drivability and long term usability.
Another update:
Took a glance at KCLV after driving ~150miles (90% highway, 105' from sea level (low elevation), Top-tier gas 93 (Costco)) and it is less than optimal.
Values between 24-25 is the most optimal for the engine.
Anything below 15 is where engine is beginning to lose power.
Engine knock sensor is looking consistent, no complaints there.
OVTune 1.01G
KCLV: 13.0
Knock sensor: -3
Stock
KCLV: 21.3 - 22.5
Knock sensor: -3
ISF guys & RRRacing on KCLV:
If your current KCLV is this value then you need to drive your car more, every set load point for correction must be met first. On these Phase 5 ECUs, due to 4D table controls and several "learned" factors, it can take more than 200 miles.
Are there any catted downpipes available? I'd be interested in a catted DP even if I have to give up some power to a catless DP. This is a Lexus, not a mustang. I don't want my Lexus smelling like unburned exhaust. I really wish I can get my data logger to work on my computer so see how my car is running with the mods. I think I have more miles than most is200's and I'd really be able to test durability.
Are there any catted downpipes available? I'd be interested in a catted DP even if I have to give up some power to a catless DP. This is a Lexus, not a mustang. I don't want my Lexus smelling like unburned exhaust. I really wish I can get my data logger to work on my computer so see how my car is running with the mods. I think I have more miles than most is200's and I'd really be able to test durability.
Logger issue looks like something that only happens on windows 10 so we are working on an all new version. it will include more logging parameters as well
Logger issue looks like something that only happens on windows 10 so we are working on an all new version. it will include more logging parameters as well
Just to add to this long thread, I wanted to post a review of the progress that has been done on this tune.
The second I saw the ad for this car in 2016, I knew I was getting a lot of car for the buck, especially with tuning options on this car. I went to the dealer and bought one on the spot.
After driving it for a few weeks, I knew this car was so limited it was nuts. Obviously the is350 had to have more power.. It was 20k more after all. So ovtune had a tune, about 2 to 3 years ago. I must have been the very first to buy it.
After many revisions with Matt I just knew there was more to it than that since there were a lot of limitations and things were not all defined yet so I just left it as is, as there were a few improvements but they were minimal. Shopping for a gsf, Matt started to post thst they bought a is200t and I started to be hopeful again. Finally, after multiple revisions I can now say that my wife can reliably drive it and it shifts as it should, it is smooth as it should, and it pulls much harder than ever.
After discouraging my friends not to buy this ypdate, I can say that this tune will make me keep the car much longer. There are still a few tables and things to figure out I am sure, but Matt seems to be devoted to make this work(he is not always the fastest to respond but be patient. I waited longer than all of you ). Even if it took a few years, I want to thank Matt for his work and hope to help him in perfecting the tune and hopefully make this a popular platform for years to come.
I have decent knowledge in tuning (i had an aem ems in my supra) and went through hoops to make it work, so feel free to ask if you have questions about this one
This tune is now fully functional and IMO the best option out there. I had a piggyback and there is no comparison
). Even if it took a few years, I want to thank Matt for his work and hope to help him in perfecting the tune and hopefully make this a popular platform for years to come.
