I have no experience here, so happy to give my opinion - Looks like the hose should hold the pressure if you got one that was rated for it, which it sounds like you did. I feel like a fuel line hose inherently makes a good bond to the "male" end-point with a solid clamp. Did it feel like the hose you have was as well secured at the end-point? That would be my only concern - it coming loose.

Just curious - why did you go this route instead of a conventional high pressure fuel line like this ( ) ? Was it a space or routing concern / issue with a standard hose? I feel like I'm hopefully only 90 days or so behind you in my endeavor to conquer my fuel needs of my turbo build, so hoping to learn as much as I can.

 

Yes, this kind of tubing must be heated to get over the barb you are working with, very tight fit. The barb coming off my bulkhead fitting pointing down and the pump outlet pointing up actually pass by one another, so I needed a hose that could snake around on the inside and do a full 360 and up to the feed outlet.

 

I found one way to possibly help the situation inside the hanger. I could only find 420mm long flex hoses when I was buying up fittings etc. This is a good size for the return, but I feel is too long and restrictive for the feed. So I just ordered both a 210mm and 160mm long tubes of the same type to attempt to get the shortest one on while maintaining a good 360* loop. If the 160mm cant do it, at least the 210mm one will be half the length of the one I have in now and fit in better. I'm worried that the one in there now is a bit smashed into place. Kinda tight fit. So hoping this is the last thing I need for my hanger. To summarize the cost of modifying your own hanger vs buying one.

The two flex hoses are 9.75 each Lets say ($20).
The bulkhead fittings for feed and return are $10 for a the 6AN and $13 for the 8AN. ($23)
The barbs for the bulkhead fittings that the two lines connect to from the pump and jet valve are around $8.50 ($20)
I used nylon washers for the bulkhead fittings along with JB plastic weld. To save time I had to just order them in sets of both 6 and 8 an sizes. Each of these were around $12-13. (say $40). You could get away with just some plastic weld probably.

So around $100 and some elbow grease, you can make a hanger with feed and return lines. Of course your pump of choice will be that cost too. Compare to say Suprastore's at $750 sometimes on sale for still over $600. That's without a pump too. However the drop in hanger may be appealing to those less crafty. This wasn't an easy task by any means. Carving out the underside of the top of the hanger to run the bulkead fittings was a tedious and time consuming effort. Lots of fine work with a razor blade to get flat surfaces where tools cant reach. Basics with epoxy, heat gun for the flex hoses to be installed onto the respective fittings. Customing a way to secure the pump in place etc. making sure the fittings are epoxied in where the SS hoses can still be installed and reach from the top of the tank down to be ran forward. Lots of thought and careful planning. I also had to take apart the connector to install new wire terminals so I wouldn't decrease the 525 pump's thicker size. I wired it directly into the harness connector port from the underside via new terminals. And will be running a hot-wire kit also directly terminaled into the connector from up top to have optimal voltage supplying power to the pump.

 

Got my trans and diff set up and ready for install. Powerdynamix trans and OS Giken lsd with PI 3200 dragon converter and Serialnine bushings.

 

I am still wary of my fuel hanger modification. I am debating finding a place that can run my pump through my setup all the way through the feed outlet to verify the actual flow rate at various pressures. Does anyone know if that is possible? I would hate to send my hanger out. But at this point I cannot let a fuel issue destroy my fully built engine and 800+whp power goals. I am thinking of contacting DeastchWerks or any recommendations (if anyone has any) for a place that can flow test my hanger. I think my custom setup should be fine.. the corrugated flex hose from the pump to the feed outlet is sized right for the pump. I just hate that it is corrugated and has a full 360* loop to run before going into the feed line. Am I just tripping or should I have this thing checked?

 

Get some news on my block. They say some cylinders are tapered and it needs bored .10" or .20" over. I'm okay with that, luckily GTE spec pistons readily come several sizes over, so that should keep costs down. Although I was hoping it would just need honed. Oh well, guess I'll just have to live with it. They also found some valve guides way worn out and in need of replacement. Must have been my top end tapping noises going on before the thing blew. All I'm waiting for now is to get the engine back refreshed and I can get this thing rebuilt! Head is getting rebuilt with the upgraded BC springs and titanium retainers I provided, the 264 cams were checked and cleared to go back in, and the block bored and all bearings replaced with a micro polish of the crank journals and the Manley H-Tuff rods and JE pistons. GTE HG and ARP head studs too of course. Head being milled to reach a 9:1 compression ratio.

 

Sounds like your engine will be nice and fresh and ready to make some good power when it returns.

I am jealous of your transmission. Putting more fuel is relatively straightforward but a transmission to hold 400+whp is far more perplexing. The diff you have looks nice. Also on the list but first I'll let traction become an issue before I invest there.

The concern you have about the fuel pump assembly is a valid one. I saw a guy has one listed in tbe Facebook pages for GS/Aristo for $450 with the hellcat E85 pump installed and ready to go. It's not a bad deal. But I can't get comfortable looking at the home made pump - which very well may be capable of standing up to the wear and rigor of use - and placing my hopes and expectations in it to perform. And I think if I were to try to build one I would feel similarly. I may do a little more discovery but sadly I think I may be resigned to giving up some good dough for a properly manufactured double pumper. 🤷‍♂️

 

I feel confident in my hanger. Got a better line in from the pump to the feed pipe. It’s a larger inside diameter than the pump’s outlet even though it’s corrugated. So it should work out fine.

 

I jumped on an LS400 bbk setup I’ve been wanting to do. Got these nice remanufactured Sumitomo power coated calipers and pads/rotor set from R1concepts. 30mm Megan RCAs. Last thing I’m waiting on for this setup is the Stoptech SS lines for both front and rear. Will be moving to DOT4 fluid too.

 

Went in to do a little work on the process of going back together. Got the Serialnine diff bushings pressed in and the diff installed. Also did some maintenance work I’ve been meaning to do. Did new front lower control arm bushings that had some cracking going on, and the rear knuckle bushings that had some play. Basically did all the stuff that required pressing while I was in the mood. Don’t always enjoy that $hiot. Also installed a set of 20mm hub centric wheels spacers that really flushed out my wheels nicely and will clear room for the LS400 brake swap I’ll be doing next.

 

Which rear knuckle bushings did you get? I need to do that but I can't find anyone who's installed the Dorman bushings

 

the bottom most ones that the camber bolts go through. You just press them out and in with a ball joint press

 

Yeah but which brand did you use?

 

ya they were the Dorman ones

 

I came across a Sard jet pump killer. It seems to allow a teeing into the return line to the pump cartridge probably to reduce back pressure in the return apparently allowing a better fpr consiatency.

Could be snake oil but fyi.

Application charts



Google sard jetpump killer