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TrueGS300's build

Old 06-04-19, 04:04 PM
  #16  
SlowSedan
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Originally Posted by Muffinizer
If you're already taking the diff apart I would recommend that you buy a clutch type LSD center section. If you can find a used torsen its going to be $1500+ but they're getting really scarce. Kaaz, Tomei, and OS Giken all make clutch type diffs
Can vouch for the OS Giken I just installed on my car. A very noticeable difference from the stock open diff. The car is hooking way better and the LSD is well behaved at lower speeds.
Old 06-04-19, 06:10 PM
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TrueGS300
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Ya I was thinking clutch type. I just researched that OS Giken one. Thing costs $1,500 . But it does sound bad ***. Where did you get it from? I'm guessing you have part number TY421-HA which is advertised for the IS300? They don't list the GS on their website.
Old 06-04-19, 06:39 PM
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Originally Posted by TrueGS300
Ya I was thinking clutch type. I just researched that OS Giken one. Thing costs $1,500 . But it does sound bad ***. Where did you get it from? I'm guessing you have part number TY421-HA which is advertised for the IS300? They don't list the GS on their website.
Our diff housings are the same size as the Automatic Mark IV Supra’s. TY031-HA is the one I used.


Old 06-05-19, 08:36 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by TrueGS300
Ya I was thinking clutch type. I just researched that OS Giken one. Thing costs $1,500 . But it does sound bad ***. Where did you get it from? I'm guessing you have part number TY421-HA which is advertised for the IS300? They don't list the GS on their website.
The OS Giken is the best clutch type LSD you can buy for the GS/Supra from my research so thats why its so expensive. The Tomei and Kaaz can be had for around $1000
Old 06-05-19, 09:01 AM
  #20  
TrueGS300
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I saw some Tomei ones for in the $700 range. I don't want to spend over $500 on the diff. I'm sure I can make that happen. There's just too many expensive things I have planned. Having a decent LSD will be fine for my moderate build. Doesn't have to be top of the line. Just want a 1 way diff with enough clutches to move both wheels from a pedal mash.
Old 06-05-19, 07:23 PM
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Originally Posted by SlowSedan
Our diff housings are the same size as the Automatic Mark IV Supra’s. TY031-HA is the one I used.
I'm assuming the OS Giken is a 2 way LSD? The Tomei unit that fits our diff is also, and so is the Kaaz that I can find. I'd really like a 1 way or 1.5 way. 2 way isn't ideal for street use and I'm not trying to be about that drift life. Anyone know of any?
Old 06-05-19, 07:39 PM
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Originally Posted by TrueGS300
I'm assuming the OS Giken is a 2 way LSD? The Tomei unit that fits our diff is also, and so is the Kaaz that I can find. I'd really like a 1 way or 1.5 way. 2 way isn't ideal for street use and I'm not trying to be about that drift life. Anyone know of any?
The OS Giken is 1.5 way.
Old 06-05-19, 08:33 PM
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Originally Posted by SlowSedan
The OS Giken is 1.5 way.
That alone may make it worth the price. Still have a bit of research to do.
Old 06-06-19, 03:31 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by TrueGS300
I'm assuming the OS Giken is a 2 way LSD? The Tomei unit that fits our diff is also, and so is the Kaaz that I can find. I'd really like a 1 way or 1.5 way. 2 way isn't ideal for street use and I'm not trying to be about that drift life. Anyone know of any?
Believe I hear what your saying. Our '94 Miata R with Torsen will drag the outside tire, on a full-lock turn (eg: parking lot). Not sure we need that, for a GS. : )
Old 06-06-19, 06:08 AM
  #25  
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Well this diff upgrade is definitely far more expensive than I expected it to be. The cost of the LSD and the refresh of the diff in general. It may have to go on the back burner until after the Torque Converter upgrade. The TC upgrade is way more important than an LSD at the moment. I am use to LSD swaps in Vettes, Trans-ams, Camaros etc. Much cheaper and done right in the car. Was thinking I'd do both at the same time in this car. But it looks like even the converter upgrade will be more than I thought. We have some kind of dual stater converter apparently? I plan to pull the pan and do the line pressure increase and possibly accumulator shims while the trans is out to upgrade the TC. I think it's a big enough project on it's own without touching the diff at the moment.

Last edited by TrueGS300; 07-20-19 at 05:52 AM.
Old 06-07-19, 10:07 AM
  #26  
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That's the big joke about our DD '00 Camry... everything is cheap, they made 400,000 of them that year. We say everything on the GS is 2x as much, 2x as heavy, 2x as big, and 2x as difficult to replace. The cost is bad enough maintaining... can't imagine upgrading... : )
Old 06-09-19, 03:15 PM
  #27  
TrueGS300
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I have an opportunity to get a torsion diff from a 6-speed JZA80 Supra. How can I tell by looking at it if it would fit the 200mm 8.5" ring gear? Apparently certain models of 6-speed have a 9" 220mm gear. But before I get blasted that only automatic Supra diffs will fit. Take a look at this chart from Tomei. According to the JZA80 section. There are part numbers of diffs they sell that fit both auto and manual Supras from certain years. So that would mean some manual trans Supras have the 8.5" 200mm diff as well.

http://www.tomeiusa.com/_2003web-cat...-ad_rset_2.htm

Here is the diff for sale I am looking at. Says 93+ 6-speed Supra diff.


Old 06-09-19, 05:39 PM
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https://www.grannasracing.com/blogs/...al-information
https://www.supraforums.com/forum/sh...erential-Info!
Old 06-10-19, 05:30 AM
  #29  
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Thanks firelizard, there was some good info there.

I think in all simplicity from what I can tell, the larger diffs have 12 bolt holes and the smaller interchangeable ones have 10 bolt holes. That should make it easy to tell if someone is shopping for just the torsion diff part.

The diff pictured above has 12 bolt holes and is a 220mm 6-speed TT (big diff) and is not interchangeable.

This one is an example of a 200mm 10 bolt interchangeable one found in Autos and maybe some N/A Manuals.
Old 06-12-19, 05:44 AM
  #30  
TrueGS300
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After driving for a while now with the 264 cams I'm back in the mindset that the car needs tuning. It makes a terrible lean smell when really getting on it and overall despite the power increase, I feel like it's not good for the engine. I am limited to a piggyback unit and will have to fork over the money for a Boomslang plug and play harness so it all can removed come smog time. I also need to run a wide-band o2. Since I have the downstream o2s pulled back out of the system, I'm thinking I'll just remove the one that goes into the mid-pipe and wrap it/ zip-tie up out of the way, and run the wide-band there where both banks have joined for good afr reading. As with everything I'm doing, it will simply be removed and the real o2 screwed back in for emissions. I am looking into the Apexi AFC Neo, Boomslang GS300/Neo plug-and-play harness, and looks like AEM makes a decent priced wide-band/ gauge kit.

I have seen some nice installs on the 2gs with the Neo in the ashtray. I plan to have it looking nice. I have quite some time before my plans for NA-T come. In the mean time I need the car to be running right. It's a daily. I also plan to go in for tuning once I have this all set up. Will be interested in seeing dyno numbers from this N/A build being properly tuned. Only problem is, it's another $1000 just to accomplish this. But at the end of the day, what's necessary for the car must be done.

Now taking whp estimates . My mods are listed on my profile. I think 220 whp isn't out of the question with the Neo properly dialed in.

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