See that's like my Vette. Driven to and from the track, but hardly means it's streetable. That is a drag strip built car that the owner is okay with many sacrifices for daily use. Not knocking it, to each their own, and I've been there. My 2nd gen is going to be the plush, smooth and comfortable car with ice cold A/C and a thumping music system it was meant to be with 600+whp on tap in the most streetable way I can make it. I think it will be more enjoyable than going for all out power. I don't like saying things like this, but as a tech and with my income, I could build a 1000+whp car any time. It's just not what I'm into anymore. I think I will again someday, but not a GS300.

On a good note, I got the converter in from PI. So far I have the LSD, TC, and BC valve springs w/ titanium retainers. Holding off on the forged pistons and rods until I have the block checked and know what sizes of rings and bearings etc. to get if any machining is needed. Have't even started pulling things apart. Currently have my shop and hands full with two engine rebuilds on customer cars plus my normal work load. Too busy, too tired, and not enough space! I even just ordered an add on to my toolbox to help organize my crap and store things as they come off when I start the tear down. 28" side locker for my 72" box

 

Continuing on my path to a one shot re-build and upgrade I've got my fuel system pretty much worked out. Just will need to cut and place fittings on the individual line lengths as I install. It will be a -8AN feed line and -6AN return, and all will be e85 rated just in case I ever go that route. So far I got a Walbro 525lph in tank pump to custom into the stock hanger. The -6AN and -8AN bulkhead 90 degree fittings to go in and out of the hanger, an in-line external filter (Radium) continuing with -8AN line to my -8AN rail (Radium), a Fuelab FPR and gauge (Radium) that installs on it, and upgraded to Bosch 1150cc injectors. All parts are Radium other than the FPR because Radium makes theirs unnecessarily complicated with several blocking adapters needed to run a simple line in and line out setup. All the lines are universal PTFE stainless steel. No barbs and clamps, all proper -AN type fittings to screw together securely. Other than that it's customing the hanger for the pump and return line. Doing the math and using several injector calculators, this will be a 800whp safe fuel system at 80-85% duty cycle.

 

Been planning my engine build. Unless someone has any reasons why it's a poor plan, here's what I'm planning. The pistons will be JE in a GTE spec dish. The rods, Manley H-beams in stock dimensions. And the HG the oem GE thin gasket in order to maintain a proper quench. Been going over this with the guys on Supra-forums. The GTE gasket is too thick. And the pistons get the ratio down to 9.5:1 or a little less. Today's trend is to go higher compression with good tuning rather than way down in the 8.5:1 range the GTE came at. This should make for a snappy response and the ability to go into the 20psi range.

 

Finally had a free day to get going on this big project. Took the day to pull the engine, trans, and diff. All will be worked/replaced. I started with the driveshaft so I could measure for a one piece and get it ordered for reinstall. For anyone interested I measured 57.5" exactly from the 3 bolt flanges on the trans and diff. The cost to replace the rubber couplers and center support bearing and the work involved for pressing etc. makes the cost of a one piece shaft not bad at all. Plus I don't believe the old stocker will hold up to my power goals. Going with an aluminum one piece from Driftmotion. Best kind of weight reduction and way better torque transfer.

Driveshaft:


Next I pulled the Trans and Diff. Very easy to do on this car. I had the driveshaft out, measured, and the trans pulled in 1.5 hours. Then the Diff out in .5 for a total of 2 hours!


Just a pic through the tunnel at the rear of the engine. Pulled the flexplate because the engine is going on a stand once pulled.


The Diff is way easier than I ever expected. There is plenty of room to push the axles away from the diff and simply remove the bolts and out she comes.


Here I wanted to show how you can support the CV axles with zip ties so they turn in the air rather than the boot against the sub-frame and get torn when pushing the vehicle in and out of the shop.


I will be replacing the diff bushings with the Serialnine set, so went ahead and pounded them out. These are the main cause of wheel-hop on these cars. Especially when old and worn out.


Holes open for the new bushings:


After those went so quick I just stared tearing on the engine and before I knew it, it was ready to pull.


You have to remove the hood to get the engine out.



On the stand and ready for the next phase of tear down.



I have a fully built trans on the way, the diff is getting a full bearing/seal replacement with the LSD install and I"m thinking about a cryo treatment for the ring and pinion. The engine is going out for inspection once I get it torn down. Then a full rebuild/forged internals. More updates to come.

 

Awesome job! If you do a rebuild of the diff yourself (since I know you mentioned getting and LSD) I would love a write up on that if you think that you could do it. I have a torsen type 2 from a 97-98 supra thats been sitting in my garage for a while that I need to rebuild but I haven't gotten to it yet. Its leaking from the yoke and both flanges but I'm not sure if I have to tools to do everything.

 

I'm sending it out with the LSD and the bearing/seal kit. I don't want to chance messing up clearances and I want the shims for backlash, tooth pattern, etc. to be perfect.

 

Tore down the engine today. Block and head being sent out for checks and possible machining tomorrow. Making good progress.

 

Totally understand that. I talked to 2 shops around me and they both wanted over $1000 for a rebuild which is absurd

 

Damn that’s a lot. But I guess that’s if you don’t provide the parts? I got the rebuild kit from Driftmotion. All Toyota original. Might look into it.

 

Yeah theres also one from suprastore. I was planning on buying that one since its a bit more complete

 

Nice progress. You're wasting no time taking care of business. I'm enjoying following the progress. Glad things are going relatively well so far! Looks like you've got a great facility and some good experience under your belt for this sort of work. I would probably take your time actuals and multiply by 3 for me LOL.

 

Thanks. Ya it's going quick now. The car just sat for a while. Taking my diff in tomorrow for the LSD install, the trans is on the way, converter is here, and engine is at the machine shop. Already have some 1,200whp rated Manley H-tuff rods on the way. Waiting to hear if I need oversize pistons or not. Have a complete fuel system revamp to do too. 525lph pump, 8an feed, fpr with 6an return, 1200cc injectors etc.

 

I can’t find their kit. Can you post a link? I don’t see how it can be more complete since this one has every bearing and seal in the diff.. but I’m sure it’s a complete set like this one. This one is 100% Toyota OEM parts too. Not sure what theirs is.

 

Got the diff bushing/mount kit in from Serialnine. Have everything for the diff now.