In addition to the OS-Giken LSD, I have the upgraded set of valve springs from BC with titanium retainers and a PI 3200 stall converter on the way. Working with the guys at PowerDynamix for the transmission. Sounds like that's gonna be a go. The TC is a special design for turbo applications. Should be a substantial improvement for the way power is put down.

Getting closer to figuring out my plan. Last thing is the block. I've decided the head is just going to be refreshed with a valve job and the upgraded springs installed. Still debating picking up a GTE block and just going back together with it, or having the GE block refreshed with upgraded rods/pistons. I have ARP head studs already and a new oil pump I plan to do the high volume mod to. Just will need to calculate HG thickness since running a GE head on a GTE block is not the same.

This has become a major build which I never had planned for this this car. But since I have to go into each of these areas, might as well go all in! This car is going to be insane when it's back together with 800+whp capable parts and I can actually make use of my turbo. It's meant to run in the 20-25psi area!

 

Damn you're going all in. Have you figured out how you're going to pass emissions? There are some old posts from jefftsai (owner of powerdynamix) where he talks about getting his standalone controlled car to pass Texas emissions. Doesn't seem trivial though and I'm sure CA is much more stringent than TX if theres a visual inspection.

Keep the posts coming!

 

there is a visual for CA smog test, I could not even pass with an intake

 

a 3200 stall? thats not much of a bump from the factory 2,700 that yours is factory. you sure you dont wanna reconsider for a higher stall?

 

3200 is a perfect match for the 264 cams. And very steetable. The car is a daily remember, not a drag car. It will have more usable power in a more reasonable driving manner. If I was going for ET’s I’d have used a 3400-3800 depending how crazy I wanted to go with it.

 

Lets just say at this point, there's not gonna be any legit smog happening for this thing. It's gone way to far now.

 

I'm running a 3500 stall and it drives like stock normal driving. I feel like it needs a little higher like 3,800. but thats just me. I understand its not a drag car, but the first time you go to spank a mustang or camaro and you hammer the throttle and your not on boost instantly, your gonna wish you were.

 

I feel you. I guess a car can always be better. But the cool thing about doing a build on a 98 GS is that it’s always the underdog. No one expects it to be fast, so even if it can’t beat something, no one can really down it.

You may feel like your 3500 feels stock, and that’s good that you feel that way. That means you can enjoy your car. What brand did you go with? I had a 3200 in my vette and did want more stall for the drag strip. But driving in town it was decent and I wouldn’t want more. The fuel economy goes down the toilet the higher stall you go. Consider every stop sign or light and the acceleration after. Even just light daily driving requires higher rpms to get moving. I do want the car to be may daily and get reasonable fuel economy for the power level, and drive nicely. It might have a little spoolup time, but I’m ok with that. Once it does, it’s going to surprise the hell out of anyone nearby.

There were a few reasons I went with the 3200. First is that matching a TC to your camshafts is important. I spoke with BC and PI in detail about what I want from the car and the 3200 was highly recommended. I don’t remember the details, but it is a turbo application specific TC that is supposed to help the car fire off quickly and get the turbo spooling. It had to do with the clutch and some other things. But either way, I think they know what they’re doing. I think it’s going be a great setup. The last reason is for daily use (Not going too far). You can always find yourself wanting more. But I weighed the need for speed vs daily use and came up with a happy medium for both.

At the end of the day, the car is going to be driven to and from work, a geocery run weekly, and leaves town once maybe every 2 weeks for any number of reasons. It will be driven like a sedan for the most part. I really think once this thing is back together with 600-700whp from being able to turn up the boost with forged rods/pistons, this TC, and the LSD in the rear w/ some stickier tires, the car is going to feel incredible.

 

I normally just lurk and don’t post, but after reading through the whole thread I felt a post was warranted. Anyhow, I love how despite the tribulations, you did your NA-T setup right, eventually going with the infinity and now discussing your options for the drivetrain. Regarding the bottom end, if it were me, I’d stick with your current block, clean it up, and go with forged internals. I think a refreshed GTE bottom end would be good if you were trying to keep the power pretty low, but if 800 is the goal, I think you’d eventually end up pulling the GTE bottom to have it built anyway. Might be better to just have your block built now as opposed to having to do the same thing later down the line when the GTE lets go. Also, I might’ve missed it, but what are you running in terms of fuel? Are you planning on staying with pump gas? The infinity supports a flex fuel sensor, so you could always run 91 or E85, right? Anyway, really enjoying the build so far and look forward to whatever you decide to do down the road. Huge props for trying to do everything right! 👍

 

Yes its going to stay pump 91. Just for simplicity as a daily. I know e85 is the thing now days, but it just isn't practical. Currently I'm running a Walbro 255lph in tank pump and 550cc injectors. Going to go to dual 255's with another of the same pump in the tank and increase the line size to at least -6an. My rail is -8an from Radium. Not sure on what injector size I'll need to go to yet. Probably will ditch the factory filter and run a -6an in-line one for less restriction. I'm actually considering 600whp as my end goal. Why make too much power and keep blowing things up? It is meant to be a fun daily after all. Besides.. no one seems to make a transmission capable of that anymore. Even ITP says 500-600 max on theirs. Jeff's setup sounds good, but he's impossible to get a hold of. No one knows what I'm talking about when I mention a beefier sprag etc. I think I'll have to go with ITP's and keep the power around 600whp. This will obviously be fun as hell still and won't over push my turbo, or the engine, and hopefully not the trans. I have a feeling things aren't as simple as they make it seem. So I'm researching stand alone transmission controllers. Can't tell me these upgraded transmissions with a high stall converter are going to shift right.

 

 

See that's like my Vette. Driven to and from the track, but hardly means it's streetable. That is a drag strip built car that the owner is okay with many sacrifices for daily use. Not knocking it, to each their own, and I've been there. My 2nd gen is going to be the plush, smooth and comfortable car with ice cold A/C and a thumping music system it was meant to be with 600+whp on tap in the most streetable way I can make it. I think it will be more enjoyable than going for all out power. I don't like saying things like this, but as a tech and with my income, I could build a 1000+whp car any time. It's just not what I'm into anymore. I think I will again someday, but not a GS300.

On a good note, I got the converter in from PI. So far I have the LSD, TC, and BC valve springs w/ titanium retainers. Holding off on the forged pistons and rods until I have the block checked and know what sizes of rings and bearings etc. to get if any machining is needed. Have't even started pulling things apart. Currently have my shop and hands full with two engine rebuilds on customer cars plus my normal work load. Too busy, too tired, and not enough space! I even just ordered an add on to my toolbox to help organize my crap and store things as they come off when I start the tear down. 28" side locker for my 72" box

 

Continuing on my path to a one shot re-build and upgrade I've got my fuel system pretty much worked out. Just will need to cut and place fittings on the individual line lengths as I install. It will be a -8AN feed line and -6AN return, and all will be e85 rated just in case I ever go that route. So far I got a Walbro 525lph in tank pump to custom into the stock hanger. The -6AN and -8AN bulkhead 90 degree fittings to go in and out of the hanger, an in-line external filter (Radium) continuing with -8AN line to my -8AN rail (Radium), a Fuelab FPR and gauge (Radium) that installs on it, and upgraded to Bosch 1150cc injectors. All parts are Radium other than the FPR because Radium makes theirs unnecessarily complicated with several blocking adapters needed to run a simple line in and line out setup. All the lines are universal PTFE stainless steel. No barbs and clamps, all proper -AN type fittings to screw together securely. Other than that it's customing the hanger for the pump and return line. Doing the math and using several injector calculators, this will be a 800whp safe fuel system at 80-85% duty cycle.

 

Been planning my engine build. Unless someone has any reasons why it's a poor plan, here's what I'm planning. The pistons will be JE in a GTE spec dish. The rods, Manley H-beams in stock dimensions. And the HG the oem GE thin gasket in order to maintain a proper quench. Been going over this with the guys on Supra-forums. The GTE gasket is too thick. And the pistons get the ratio down to 9.5:1 or a little less. Today's trend is to go higher compression with good tuning rather than way down in the 8.5:1 range the GTE came at. This should make for a snappy response and the ability to go into the 20psi range.

 

Finally had a free day to get going on this big project. Took the day to pull the engine, trans, and diff. All will be worked/replaced. I started with the driveshaft so I could measure for a one piece and get it ordered for reinstall. For anyone interested I measured 57.5" exactly from the 3 bolt flanges on the trans and diff. The cost to replace the rubber couplers and center support bearing and the work involved for pressing etc. makes the cost of a one piece shaft not bad at all. Plus I don't believe the old stocker will hold up to my power goals. Going with an aluminum one piece from Driftmotion. Best kind of weight reduction and way better torque transfer.

Driveshaft:


Next I pulled the Trans and Diff. Very easy to do on this car. I had the driveshaft out, measured, and the trans pulled in 1.5 hours. Then the Diff out in .5 for a total of 2 hours!


Just a pic through the tunnel at the rear of the engine. Pulled the flexplate because the engine is going on a stand once pulled.


The Diff is way easier than I ever expected. There is plenty of room to push the axles away from the diff and simply remove the bolts and out she comes.


Here I wanted to show how you can support the CV axles with zip ties so they turn in the air rather than the boot against the sub-frame and get torn when pushing the vehicle in and out of the shop.


I will be replacing the diff bushings with the Serialnine set, so went ahead and pounded them out. These are the main cause of wheel-hop on these cars. Especially when old and worn out.


Holes open for the new bushings:


After those went so quick I just stared tearing on the engine and before I knew it, it was ready to pull.


You have to remove the hood to get the engine out.



On the stand and ready for the next phase of tear down.



I have a fully built trans on the way, the diff is getting a full bearing/seal replacement with the LSD install and I"m thinking about a cryo treatment for the ring and pinion. The engine is going out for inspection once I get it torn down. Then a full rebuild/forged internals. More updates to come.