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you sure you don’t want to go with the some shorter rubber? You’lol find the 265/35/18 and 305/30/18 will fit better and still give you plenty of sidewall.
Originally Posted by TrueGS300
If you use an online tire size calculator, it's actually the 40 front and 35 rear that makes a similar diameter to the OEM size. 35 and 30 would be substantially shorter, about a full inch.
265/35-18 is exactly the same OD as the factory 17" tire (235/45-17). 265/40 is the same OD as the 16" package (215/60-16). Can go either way when choosing an aftermarket setup.
In terms of fitment, the taller tire will require a higher ride height to not rub. Matter of personal preference on whether that's a concern.
Last edited by firelizard; Nov 30, 2024 at 01:29 PM.
265/35-18 is exactly the same OD as the factory 17" tire (235/45-17). 265/40 is the same OD as the 16" package (215/60-16). Can go either way when choosing an aftermarket setup.
In terms of fitment, the taller tire will require a higher ride height to not rub. Matter of personal preference on whether that's a concern.
Thank you for clearing that up. My OEM size was 215/60-16 which I am basing my diameter off of. I am currently lowered 2" on coilovers and have a nice closed wheel to fender gap. If this new setup requires some raising, no big deal. But I really think I will just need to do some fender rolling to fit them.
If you use an online tire size calculator, it's actually the 40 front and 35 rear that makes a similar diameter to the OEM size. 35 and 30 would be substantially shorter, about a full inch. My current set is flushed out to the fender with a full 3" of clearance to the inside on the rear. 305 is actually only 2" wider than the 255's I'm running. So the 305's on 11" wide should fit with room to spare even on an unmodded body. Only thing is, I want the Hellaflush look, so I went with offsets that bring them out and I will need to create about 1/2" to 3/4" of fender rolled clearance. I did 18x9.5 +35 front and 18x11 +40 rear. Looking at the NT555RII in 305/35-18.
this all seems very thought out… so you’re probably aware… the fenders, particularly the rear, don’t really roll. You need to cut them, and after that you can try to roll, but bacon is on order if you make much progress…. 3/4” is too much in my opinion.
this all seems very thought out… so you’re probably aware… the fenders, particularly the rear, don’t really roll. You need to cut them, and after that you can try to roll, but bacon is on order if you make much progress…. 3/4” is too much in my opinion.
3/4" should be worst case scenario. Using an offset calculator I am showing a .6" (a smidge over 1/2") farther out placement with the new setup. I also have not added any negative camber, which can help tuck at the top if I need to. I have plenty of room on the inside from what I measured. I prefere max grip for straightline performance, so not one to go negative on camber, but a tiny increment isn't too bad. I am aware of the screw welds that need cut off before being able to flatten the lip. I will take my time cutting and dremeling before folding the lip, then rolling/pushing out. I don't mind if it takes days.
Car is back on stands and ready to start fender work. Will start by mounting the rims/tires and jacking from the lower control arms and I just heat and roll/pull till a nice tuck is achieved. I am also going to start playing with the cold start fueling. Will be coming out to start it, log it, and make adjustments, and upload changes to the ECU. I will just have to take however many days it takes to achieve a good cold start.
Sure am gonna miss these rims. Really like the look. The new ones aren’t as nice, but they are right for my specs.
Things are coming together quickly. I ordered the tires so I can get them mounted and balanced as soon as the rims show up. Will need to be able to place them on and off to gradually work the fenders to fit. Now that I have the AEM program I was able to send my tune file to my prior tuner to take a look. He already sent me an updated tune with changes to the cold start parameters! Looking forward to trying that out for a couple days to see if it's better. He's willing to make more changes if necessary too. That is a huge load off my mind. I was really concerned about the tuning at this point.
I ended up going with Sumitomo HTR-Z5 tires for the front and Toyo Proxes R888R for the rear. I have the HTR-Z5's on my BMW and think they are an outstanding tire for a very good price. They are very confident in wet conditions and very good in dry as well as smooth/quiet. The R888R is a little cheaper than the NT555RII and is a little more suited to my driving style. It's considered the better handling tire of the two. The 555 is better for a dig and launching, more drag oriented, but I don't plan to abuse my rear end and axles that way. I plan to hit it from a roll in most cases. I care more about stability and safety at this point. I just want to feel planted when in full boost and hopefully no more wheel spin.
I wanted to mention, there were several factors in deciding on these rims. After months of calculating rim and tire sizes and offsets, this was one of the only sets that came in my exact specs. and was on a black friday deal at just $1,050 for the whole set. They are lightweight, decent name brand, cheap, and I avoided having to go custom in the $3,000 range for Works, or Volks etc. I even looked into some Weld rims and almost went that route. I don't find these to be the best looking rims, but they go really well with my black car and chrome accents, and they have a very large brake clearance for big brake kits. Currently I am running LS400 brakes in the front and want the potential for future growth if I ever want to do a real 6 pot setup. So basically, this set came through as affordable, light, in spec. considerate of brakes, etc. I have to say, Konig really surprised me with this wheel. Can't wait to see those R888R's on them
Also, after experiencing many tire setups over the years, I've found 18's to be the best overall rim size I've run. My current 19's, though sexy, don't have the sidewall to absorb various road nonsense. And below 18" sacrifices handling with too much sidewall rollover etc. 18's are also the standard of most big brake kits. You can bring the best in all performance areas except a dedicated drag radial on an 18' rim. I'm speaking to a good well rounded "street" size. 18's are where it's at for me.
Last edited by TrueGS300; Dec 3, 2024 at 09:02 PM.
Dude, the fitment is actually so good, I was able to drive it. No issues with the fit in the front whatsoever and the rear has some minimal rubbing. You literally only have to remover the 4 screws holding the strip that lines the fenders and cut out that part that goes inward that it screws to. I won’t have to roll out the fenders at all.
