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Old Apr 13, 2020 | 05:24 PM
  #196  
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Got a little more done between work today. Oil pickup, pans, mounts, timing/water pump, all the sensors on the sides, oil filter housing etc. ready to drop in soon.


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Old Apr 15, 2020 | 07:17 PM
  #197  
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Got some turbo action going on now



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Old Apr 30, 2020 | 05:16 AM
  #198  
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Shes almost ready to go back in, you are further along than I am on mine. I hope to start assembling this weekend. Very clean engine, cant wait to see more.
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Old Apr 30, 2020 | 06:05 AM
  #199  
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It's actually back in the car, but just sitting in it's place with nothing else done. Wasted a lot of time trying to get the TC from PI to fit. Totally wrong machining on several areas. After days of pictures and explaining, I will be sending both the oem and their converter to them for proper machining. Just had to be another big hold up. But after however long this takes, the trans and everything should go back together smoothly.
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Old Apr 30, 2020 | 07:07 PM
  #200  
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Originally Posted by TrueGS300
It's actually back in the car, but just sitting in it's place with nothing else done. Wasted a lot of time trying to get the TC from PI to fit. Totally wrong machining on several areas. After days of pictures and explaining, I will be sending both the oem and their converter to them for proper machining. Just had to be another big hold up. But after however long this takes, the trans and everything should go back together smoothly.

I see what you mean. You should get back to business soon
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Old May 28, 2020 | 07:09 AM
  #201  
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To update. I spoke to PI after sending both theirs' and my OEM converter to them to see what happened. Be warned if you are converter shopping, they say they have never seen or built a converter like this before. Yet they cover the GS. They don't know why this is the case. So unfortunately I had to be refunded for the converter and have my OEM one re-stalled to 3200. Saves a bunch of money, but is not what I wanted. The converter is such a performance enhancer I was more than willing to pay for. I wanted their around 20lbs lighter billet one. Oh well, at least I'll still have the stall I want and no fitment issues. Should see this back in a week or two and get this damn thing back together.

I also wanted to say that PI is still a good place to get your converter re-stalled. They are only charging $250 where suprastore want's $1000 for a re-stalled converter and your OEM back as a core. Of course shipping is a lot for something so heavy. But they are an option still.
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Old Jun 15, 2020 | 05:52 AM
  #202  
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Enough for one day! Got the the trans, and driveshaft installed, all things I could on the bottom. Accessories and drive belt, radiator/ fan assembly, many electrical connections and hoses etc. exhaust down-pipe, will be completely back together next day I get to work on it. Lastly is customizing my new fuel feed and return fuel lines once it’s all back together.



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Old Jun 15, 2020 | 08:51 AM
  #203  
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Good progress. Definitely getting closer. I want to hear about that stall when you get the car back going. You still had the A650E in there, so a much taller 1st gear than my A340E 4 speed. With the twins in sequential mode, the 4 speed wasn't a rocket off the line. But with brake hold, I could get it into boost enough to launch it effectively. In parallel mode, it is a dog off the line. Cannot build boost on stock stall speed. My single turbo with a quick spool valve is maybe a little better, but not much. I think if I had the taller 1st gear of the 5 speed I would be in much better shape. But it's probably easier to build the A340E and change the stall speed. I've been a little bit anxious about it affecting my highway mileage & temps. I think 3,200 would be plenty for me, so - again - really looking forward to hearing how you like it. Do you have any temperature sensors in the transmission and are you upgrading your transmission cooler with this change?
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Old Jun 16, 2020 | 06:27 AM
  #204  
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I'll definitely keep posting about my experience. There will be several major changes all at once though. In addition to the 3200 stall, the built transmission has an upgraded valve body that will act differently too. The LSD in the diff will make for a different feeling launch too. I'll try to differentiate between all the new changes. But I do think they are going to compliment each other very well. I've been wanting to increase stall since before going NA-T when I did the BC-264 cams. Matching cams and TC stall is a huge performance benefit. Even over someone with a more powerful engine. Having things work right together makes all the difference. I'll be aiming to turn up the boost after I get the car running and all the new engine, trans, and diff parts broken in. Also have the LS400 fronts and LS430 rear brakes to get use too. Lots of changes.

I didn't add any temp sensors to the trans. I don't see it as a super necessary data to keep track of. I am running the same Hayden trans cooler I had before. I have had high stall TC's before and even under multiple passes drag racing never saw concerning temps. I did upgrade to a thicker aluminum radiator that still has an integrated trans cooler and with the added external one, I feel very easy about the cooling. The little coolers are much more capable than people realize. This little one I have is meant for motor-homes in fact. There are even smaller for automobile applications.
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Old Jun 27, 2020 | 06:45 AM
  #205  
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It’s finally back together and running. One of the challenges this time was customizing fuel feed and return lines and the hanger mod. But it all worked out well. I think the 525lph pump with a very restriction free system will supply my power goals fine. Still running the 550cc injectors it’s tuned for to break everything in, then going to my 1200cc’s and installing my MBC to turn up the boost and tune again.



Just a couple snaps of the fuel lines. You can see where I put the regulator in the pic above.



Also just got these XAT brackets in for the LS430 rear brake kit I have. Will be installing too over then next week or two.

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Old Jun 28, 2020 | 02:49 PM
  #206  
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LS430 rear brake kit installed. Goes well with my front upgrade.





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Old Jul 10, 2020 | 06:23 AM
  #207  
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Some delays in progress have happened due to low quality parts. I'v been forced to reconsider moving forward without upgrading and adding some parts. Starting with the wastegate that failed from CXRacing. I don't know how this even happened, the wastegate stayed installed on the manifold and was never tampered with. Just has been stuck open since rebuilding the engine and getting it running. So I have a TiAL MV-R 44mm on the way that will be installed with a 12psi spring for my baseline. I believe this issue has to do with my messed up A/F ratio and why I'm having to run so low of fuel pressure to keep good readings. I am also upgrading the BOV to a TiAL 50mm Q. But I need to get the car running good enough to get a solid engine vacuum reading so I know what spring to order it with. Pretty sure the 10lb one will be what I need. But will have to start with the wastegate and fuel pressure first. The reason I'm upgrading the BOV is because A: The CXRacing one is just as cheap of junk and B: In my research I found that similar size one's are only good to an estimated 400ish hp. So I like the idea of welding on a 50mm flange for the TiAL BOV. Once I get a solid engine vacuum reading I will select the appropriate lb. spring.

I am also looking into an electronic boost control solenoid rather than my basic MBC. I had planned to just set boost with it on dyno day and leave it. But I realize that I have an AEM Infinity ECU that is literally designed to run one and make things work better all around. AEM sells their own for just $100. Will likely just get that one. I don't exactly know how they work yet, but hope it's worth it. I need to have all these things planned and done before going in for tuning so it's right the first time.

I was also considering AEM's methanol injection kit. I don't know if they are worth while kits though for $500. But like I said, if it makes more and safer power and is totally usable with my Infinity ECU, should it be a no brainier to do?

Open to any recommendations or insights to these things for having the car on point before I take it in for dyno tuning. Anything else I should consider?
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Old Jul 10, 2020 | 08:24 AM
  #208  
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Unrelated but I thought that you had purchased a GTE engine. Why did you decide to stay with the GE intake manifold?
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Old Jul 10, 2020 | 04:48 PM
  #209  
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Originally Posted by captainva
Unrelated but I thought that you had purchased a GTE engine. Why did you decide to stay with the GE intake manifold?
Nope, I had the GE block rebuilt and forged. Had the head rebuilt too with BC valve springs and titanium retainers etc. all ARP studs/bolts etc. Using JE GTE spec dish pistons, Manley H-Tuff rods, and the BC 264 cams still. Had them put the engine to 9:1 CR. with (I forget what thickness) HG that it needed to get there.

The turbo manifold I'm using bolts to the GE head, and my IC piping is for the GE Intake. Several reasons I stayed with the GE. It's stronger than a GTE now with parts rated for 1200hp. Goal is 700-800 though.
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Old Jul 16, 2020 | 06:39 AM
  #210  
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Received the TiAL MVR 44 and selected the right springs for 10.15 psi (the black and red in this case). Very high quality parts. Hoping to get it installed this week if time permits. Will be looking forward to actually being able to go into boost!



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