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I ended up having to raise the rear by 6mm to keep the top outer edge of the tires from touching the already trimmed top stud for the fender liner when going over dips at higher speeds. All good now and no rubbing anymore.
Braille i34CE battery came in. I’ve had the same battery on the RCF for a few years now with no issues so I thought I’d get one for the ISF as well. It weighs in at just less than 10lbs and sits almost 2” shorter even with a 1” foam on the bottom, so I shortened and rewelded the front hook.
Anything special about "New coils from highspark Japan" vs OEM?
Typically no need to to replace those until there is an issue or high mileage. Are those an upgrade?
Just a side note: It's NOT recommended (for the best conductivity) to use anti-seize one with Denso or NGK spark plugs as they are installed at the factory dry, without lubrication or anti-seize.
Anti-seize can also act as a lubricant, altering torque values up to 20 percent, increasing the risk of spark plug thread breakage and/or metal shell stretch. It is completely unnecessary and can be detrimental. Just my two cents, Ron
Yes, and if you stretch the shell by overtorque, you'll make the plug run hotter than designed because more of the tip will be projecting into the combustion chamber. With the very long intervals we have between plug changes, there is no need at all to put any thread lubricant on your sparkplugs.
Anything special about "New coils from highspark Japan" vs OEM?
Typically no need to to replace those until there is an issue or high mileage. Are those an upgrade?
Just a side note: It's NOT recommended (for the best conductivity) to use anti-seize one with Denso or NGK spark plugs as they are installed at the factory dry, without lubrication or anti-seize.
Anti-seize can also act as a lubricant, altering torque values up to 20 percent, increasing the risk of spark plug thread breakage and/or metal shell stretch. It is completely unnecessary and can be detrimental. Just my two cents, Ron
Originally Posted by lobuxracer
Yes, and if you stretch the shell by overtorque, you'll make the plug run hotter than designed because more of the tip will be projecting into the combustion chamber. With the very long intervals we have between plug changes, there is no need at all to put any thread lubricant on your sparkplugs.
Thanks for the inputs!
The “amplified” coils are advertised to give higher spark energy. Honestly, I do feel a difference, my first impression was, the increase in throttle response or sensitivity is in between having the apexi throttle controller OFF and ON. I also notice the car pulls a little harder, the tires tend to spin easier too. That’s MY observation
I’ve used anti-seize for many years and I’m aware of torque requirements with and without lubrication. I use very little of it and never had a problem. I don’t put it on the seat where the main point of contact is. I do know the threads are too. I also know that these modern plugs are coated to avoid seizure, but I’d rather have an additional protection against it considering how long these spark plugs last before needing to be replaced. And yes I replaced them early (19K miles) but that’s because I was replacing the coils and might as well replace the plugs, just like replacing the starter at 17K miles when I installed the novel headers.
Thanks for the inputs!
The “amplified” coils are advertised to give higher spark energy. Honestly, I do feel a difference, my first impression was, the increase in throttle response or sensitivity is in between having the apexi throttle controller OFF and ON. I also notice the car pulls a little harder, the tires tend to spin easier too. That’s MY observation
I’ve used anti-seize for many years and I’m aware of torque requirements with and without lubrication. I use very little of it and never had a problem. I don’t put it on the seat where the main point of contact is. I do know the threads are too. I also know that these modern plugs are coated to avoid seizure, but I’d rather have an additional protection against it considering how long these spark plugs last before needing to be replaced. And yes I replaced them early (19K miles) but that’s because I was replacing the coils and might as well replace the plugs, just like replacing the starter at 17K miles when I installed the novel headers.
In 40+ years of modifying engines, I've never seen any change in power from plugs or coils if the system they replaced was working. Ever. "Hotter" coils burn out plugs faster by wearing down the electron transfer surfaces - the sharp edges you need to make spark go away faster.
30 years ago, our shop built a Suzuki engine with antiseize on every bolt as we had done for years. When we took the engine apart, you would have though we'd used Loctite. Ever since then, I am not a big fan of antiseize on anything other than exhaust bolts. All torque specs are for clean, dry bolts and clean, dry holes.
In 40+ years of modifying engines, I've never seen any change in power from plugs or coils if the system they replaced was working. Ever. "Hotter" coils burn out plugs faster by wearing down the electron transfer surfaces - the sharp edges you need to make spark go away faster.
30 years ago, our shop built a Suzuki engine with antiseize on every bolt as we had done for years. When we took the engine apart, you would have though we'd used Loctite. Ever since then, I am not a big fan of antiseize on anything other than exhaust bolts. All torque specs are for clean, dry bolts and clean, dry holes.
as always, thanks for the input!
Same as you, I’ve done things for many years the same way I’m doing now and have not had a single issue. Until I do, I’ll keep doing it the same way. I use both lubed and dry torque specs at work so I’m aware of the adjustments needed. Thanks again for the input,
all appreciated!
