Worse case, just go to the Headquarter toyota. They go for a couple bucks.

 

Ok how about a better question, what is the size of bolt I need to put TT calipers on my SC. Just the stock SC bolts work fine ?

 

Yep they'll work

 

quick question.. whats the size differance of the LS4 rotors vs. TT rotors again ????....

EDIT:

Nevermind i got it

 

OK last one for today, hope u boosted guys can help out on this one. To go NA-t on my stock 92 300 other than the maintenance things needed to go boost(head stud, gaskets, and seals), if I were to go with either a 57 or small to mid 60's size turbo, 38-40mm wg, bov, nice size intercooler and full exhaust. What are the bare minimum of electronics do I need to run safely on stock fuel system with TT headgasket??? not looking for a piggyback or standalone atm ???

 

You are going to need some way to control boost IE: manual boost controller,or just on WG spring pressure, And you are going to have to use some sort of PB computer to control fuel as the factory computer is not going to be capable of building a fuel map for the new force induced air you want to push into the engine. You may also want to really consider a FPR to control higher F pressure in the rail, and depending on the amount of boost a little larger injector for safety.
Hope this helps a little!

 

Thanks rodge, l'm putting together a starter kit so no big boost, no big fuel, and no timing work. 57-60mm turbo, 38-44mm wg, bov, med size intercooler, full exhaust on stock fuel. What managment do I need to run safely, I am guessing and just looking for reasurance here that I would need a wideband O2 with gauge, boost gauge, S-afc, manual boost controler, possibly a DLI ???? Anything else?

 

Alright got one that has me stumped and is probably something simple, but I'm out of ideas.

1994 GS300

Did the Supra brakes on the front, as well as replace the master cylinder with a reman'd unit. Maybe a month later, I drove the car to my parents house one night, go to leave and when I push the brake pedal it dropped straight to floor no pressure there at all. Since that has happened, maybe a month after doing the fronts. I added the rear Supra brakes, bled everything several times, still the same result. I am contemplating buying a NEW, not reman'd master cylinder, but don't really want to just throw money at it like that. So is there anything I'm missing here.

The front we bled the traditional method, the rears we had trouble with but finally got the to bleed with the engine running. And, I've tried the key on/engine off method of letting the ABS pump bleed em, but that literally produce no result.

Any help appreciated!!

 

^^^ oh snap I was just reading ur thread LoL

 

This might not be the case but I read about someone having the same problem with LS400 brakes on an SC and it turned out that he installed the calipers backwards. Just a suggestion.

Also, did you bench bleed the master cylinder?

 

It sounds to me like you have a pretty good handle on the necessary items for your build. Stock fuel is very limited so pay really close attention to your boost levels and a wide band is a very necessary piece of hardware. A DLI will not be necessary for the boost levels on stock or slightly modified injector size, you are going to need some type of fuel controller, S/AFC or something of similar capability.

 

I'll look at the calipers again tonight but both have the bleeder valves at the top.

And yes, we did bench bleed the master.

 

Question,
I bought an 08 RX350 CPO from Lexus of Tampa in Aug '10 I have since had it back in for the forth time now for a squeak in the front end. They claimed they replaced a gasket between (and I'm not positive) the front end of the exhaust where it connects to the headers i bleive. The squeak happens when you rock the vehicle (shut off) forward and back as if to push it downthe road. When you stop it squeak like an old bed. I think the first time they sprayed something on it. The second is when the replaced the gasket stoppped for a month or so, the third they claimed they put a gasket seizing agent on it. Started squeaking again two days later. Now the GM is involved and he said they cannot find the squeak. I tested it a couple of times a day to make sure it was still doing it before they came and picked it up. It only does it right after it's been hot from driving at least 5 -10 miles.

Any thoughts????

 

Stick to a 38mm WG, it's cheaper and I dont think you're gonna be making lots of power.

 

Need some tire/ wheel advice. I have 255 35 19s on the rear of my car and with the offset its just fitting by the grace of god. I came across a really good deal on some 265 30 19 tires. Can anyone give me their opinion if it will fit or not?