Are GTE valves the same as GE valves ????????

 

Thanks for having a tech support thread! My first post is a question regarding a problem with our GS300. I have used the search feature with no luck yet.

It's a 1999 GS300 with a little over 200k. My wife was leaving for work tonight and got about a block away from the house when it stalled; she would try to restart it and it would start and run about 2 seconds and then idle down anywhere to between 200-500 rpms and run very rough and eventually stall.

I took her the tacoma (our truck) so she could continue to work and had a friend with a truck help me tow the car back home.

So it continues to do the same thing; it will start, run for a couple seconds and then idle down and run so rough you barely think it's running, then it usually dies after about 10-15 seconds.

Any ideas?

Edit: Sorry, I thought I was in second gen GS forum, my bad.

 

First thing to check in the idle air control valve. High mileage that thing must have a lot of dirt and grime in it. It would lock up the metal pin inside it and it would stay closed causing the issue.

 

Thank you sir, I will look into that.

 

any check engine light?

 

No, that was the odd thing. I do have an update though, I have a gas can in my garage and on a hunch we dumped about half a gallon in the tank, it started and runs fine!

I had the rear seat cushion out and was just about to tear into the fuel pump when we did that. Now it's running fine, just have to figure out if the fuel gauge is off or we have still another issue.

 

Oh, I forgot to mention, it had/has 1/4 tank fuel according to the gauge during this whole issue.

 

Hey looking for someone local that can rebuild a Precision T67 journal bearing turbo i dont have it thinking of buying it but the guy is tellin me it needs "a new center cartridge" can anyone shine some light on this for me ?

 

I have a 92 lexus es300 and the engine was swapped with a toyota camry v6 engine and transmission from a toyota camry from japan. Now when I drive the car, it takes a very long time to shift from 1st to 2nd. IT revs really high up to about the 4 and then finally shifts really hard into second. It is also very difficult to drive up hills and it feels like it has little power. It revs really high but the car has no push and barely moves. If I accelerate really slow, the transmission seems to shift pretty smooth.
I can get up to 100kms/hr but it is very hard and takes a very long time. It takes a very long time to go from 0 to 60 as well.. The shifting is also very very hard and shaky. The car is very shaky in general, even in idle. It has been sitting for a long time prior to switching engines.

I filled the gas and drove a quarter tank already to burn off all the old stuff that was in the car and now filled up to full. I also changed the dirty air filter. I told my friend to take a look and he said the transmission fluid is clean and full and it is a bit too full. He also said the head gasket is fine and the spark plugs are dirty.

Can anyone tell me how to fix this problem?

 

92 SC300 5spd stock 2jzge w/ EGR delete. its throwing an engine code for o2 sensor (21HO2S front circuit) could it be as simple as changing out the o2 sensors??

i start her up and it sounds like its misfiring (engine a bit shakier than norm). it boggles at idle, runs kind of rough and sounds like it wants to die out, i manually upped the RPM so that it doesn't die out. after countless searches on this forum (some threads do not have conclusions/ helpful end results) i tried a few of them...

so far this is what ive done: cleaned the IAC valve, cleaned the contacts on cap n rotor, I changed spark plugs to NGK Iridium (New), cleaned throttle body, also cleaned the o2 sensor near the headers and the one before cat and cleaned all electrical plugs before putting it back together.

On my TO DO LIST:

-swap out MAF sensor (I'm counting on this to be the problem)
-compression test


I may order some new wires seeing how they are almost 2 decades old!


Does anyone have other suggestions? thanks for reading!

 

Since you have a swapped motor that makes things more interesting. It did not do this before the car was parked correct? If you have a engine related issue that could be confusing the computer to tell the transmission when to shift. That sounds like a separate issue though. The transmission fluid level and condition need to be checked. If it is really dark and smells burnt you need to flush it. If it has high mileage on it and you do flush it it could be the last straw for it. It sounds like your clutch packs might have worn all the material out and it does not function in turn. Check the condition see if it is bad. If it is flush it and see if it helps or it fails all together. You might need to be looking for another transmission.

Did you clean the o2 sensors after the light came on/shaking condition happened? Spraying cleaners on the sensors can permanently damage them if you use the wrong cleaner.If your wires look very decayed I would replace them. If you remove the egr valve that helps the cyl temp drop down when running hot or when the car is warmed up. It might be reading excessive gases that the egr would help cause the operating conditions changed. I would replace the sensor first and then see if the problem continues. I would also replace the wires that could cause a misfire issue.

I hope you guys know you are posting in the FLORIDA section not another state. If you are posting in the wrong section delete your post and post in the correct region.

 

Good old Sean always coming through the answers.. Thank ya man

 

Fellas looking for a quick answer I am about to put on a 97 front bumper on my 92. Now can I reuse my foam thing or do i have to get one specifically for the 97+ ????????

 

my rear arms have some rust on them i was thinking about sand blasting them and then renforcing the but they told me its not a good idea because they need to flex if not it will make the rear end stiff

 

I don't have the foam inside my bumper. I think you need the 97+ bumper support. But you don't have to get it. I have the older bumper support as well. I believe it's just the holes for the front opening part are lined up different. Mine has screws drilled into the support.

I have an extra support too but I'm not sure if it's a 97+. I never checked.



Reinforcing your arms isn't a great idea because what if you were in an accident? Would you rather bend or break suspension arms or mess up the frame of your car?