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Ed, I know they make 2 different versions of vr1. One is the "not street legal" synthetic that advance doesn't sell. That one has to be changed often. The one advance sells is the conventional version that is a normal 3month/3000 mile. From what I've read on different forums, there are quite a few high powered street supras and turbo bmws that are running it.
I was running 15w-50 mobil1 for a while and then when it got colder, I switched to 10w-40 and as soon as I did, I got a crazy oil leak because of the slightly lower viscosity. I believe it's coming from my rear main seal. I've already changed out all the front ones.
I was running 15w-50 mobil1 for a while and then when it got colder, I switched to 10w-40 and as soon as I did, I got a crazy oil leak because of the slightly lower viscosity. I believe it's coming from my rear main seal. I've already changed out all the front ones.
Last edited by SH_JZZ30; Jan 28, 2011 at 05:48 AM.
shameed
vr1 racing oil is good stuff but its racing oil designed to be changed after each race like they do in the pits at the track... alot of people dont realize the diff between things applicable to racing may not be the best for the street in terms of whats in it for daily driving ...
10w40 would be ideal for its not to thick to prevent oil from getting to the wrist pins and up thru the head during cold start but yet wont turn to water under heat breakdown.. i use mobil 1 15w50 from day one for i found it to be the best compromise between enough viscosity and the ability for it to reach the wrist pins and prevent that start up famous rattle but does not break down quickly from the heat but still thin enough to not be a problem for bearing clearances and create a drag on the crank
10w30 5w30 way to thin and breaks down quickly hence why some people exp spun bearings , no real lubing on the bearings and crank
bottom line check your oil often and if you know your going to run hard change the oil beforehand
vr1 racing oil is good stuff but its racing oil designed to be changed after each race like they do in the pits at the track... alot of people dont realize the diff between things applicable to racing may not be the best for the street in terms of whats in it for daily driving ...
10w40 would be ideal for its not to thick to prevent oil from getting to the wrist pins and up thru the head during cold start but yet wont turn to water under heat breakdown.. i use mobil 1 15w50 from day one for i found it to be the best compromise between enough viscosity and the ability for it to reach the wrist pins and prevent that start up famous rattle but does not break down quickly from the heat but still thin enough to not be a problem for bearing clearances and create a drag on the crank
10w30 5w30 way to thin and breaks down quickly hence why some people exp spun bearings , no real lubing on the bearings and crank
bottom line check your oil often and if you know your going to run hard change the oil beforehand
Ed, I know they make 2 different versions of vr1. One is the "not street legal" synthetic that advance doesn't sell. That one has to be changed often. The one advance sells is the conventional version that is a normal 3month/3000 mile. From what I've read on different forums, there are quite a few high powered street supras and turbo bmws that are running it.
I was running 15w-50 mobil1 for a while and then when it got colder, I switched to 10w-40 and as soon as I did, I got a crazy oil leak because of the slightly lower viscosity. I believe it's coming from my rear main seal. I've already changed out all the front ones.
I was running 15w-50 mobil1 for a while and then when it got colder, I switched to 10w-40 and as soon as I did, I got a crazy oil leak because of the slightly lower viscosity. I believe it's coming from my rear main seal. I've already changed out all the front ones.
Guys i dont think i asked this here yet, but i have a noise issue under the hood. I just recently did new valve cover gaskets, cam seals, crank seal, timing belt, water pump idler pulleys and tensioner. I put everything back together and my (L) bank was making that infamous vvti OCV sensor noise when i starte dthe car up. It runs beautifully but that dam area is rattling like crazy dieselish. Now i did replace the ocv/vvti actuator sensor already with a new one $96 at lex to no avail. what else could it be maybe the vvti gear itself making that noise. I know the oil screen and passeges coming from the head are clear. Is there a possibility of oil passges being clogged in the end of thcam? can I pull the end cam bolt out and leave the timing belt on. I already pulled everything apart to make sure it was done right intially to verify. dont want to pull everything off again for no reason. Any help is appreciated.
Lexus Test Driver
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 1,021
Likes: 0
From: Palm Harbor ,Fl
Hello blast from the past. Can you take a video of it running or get audio either or. Sounds on forums don't always seem to be close only if your in person with the car can you make a good solution. Did you double check there aren't any loose bolts rattling on the timing cover or on top of the engine? The belt isn't rubbing up against the cover is it? Is the sound for sure coming from the Left bank?
So I figured what the noise is, it happens to be a my bad on my part I didnt set the anti lash gear right on the exhaust cam. Note picture below and now every one who comes up with a diesel sound after doing cam seals and what not can look for this.
Pole Position
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 245
Likes: 0
From: Florida
Hey there fellow SC enthusiasts, the problem I'm having now with my 92 SC300 is that when I gun it on 1st, 2nd & sometimes 3rd the car like boggs out for like 2-3 seconds then it picks up again but when I'm just cruising its good. I changed the cap, rotor, spark plugs, spark plug wires, intake, fuel filter, new ECU idk what else to do. Does it have anything to do with the car being automatic & switching it to manual? It still has the auto ECU does that matter? Also the O/D light is flashing ON/OFF does that have anything to do with as well?
Hey there fellow SC enthusiasts, the problem I'm having now with my 92 SC300 is that when I gun it on 1st, 2nd & sometimes 3rd the car like boggs out for like 2-3 seconds then it picks up again but when I'm just cruising its good. I changed the cap, rotor, spark plugs, spark plug wires, intake, fuel filter, new ECU idk what else to do. Does it have anything to do with the car being automatic & switching it to manual? It still has the auto ECU does that matter? Also the O/D light is flashing ON/OFF does that have anything to do with as well?
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
From: Ohio
Minor fendor bender
Hey just realized how many knowledgeable members there on CLFL..So if we can't help you find out, what it is you seek. We can at least argue about it..
All jokes aside I can try to answer any wheel and tire question you might have .And I'm sure with all the knowledgeable members on here many other technical question could also be answered .I know at the end of the day we all want to help one another.. peace
All jokes aside I can try to answer any wheel and tire question you might have .And I'm sure with all the knowledgeable members on here many other technical question could also be answered .I know at the end of the day we all want to help one another.. peace
