Richard call Ed he seems to be very knowledgeable on matters of the na/na-t motors ..

 

I would like to say this .

We need to give ourselves a hand here .Because we help each other when help is needed . And that's what CLFL is about.

I think I'm going to now .I need a ..lol You guys rock..

Thanks everyone for contributing your vast knowledge. It helps

 

Yeah Sure no problem for helping people out.

 

How gay is that ?? No more forum surfing when drunk..

 

LOL gotta admit though CLFL fells like my extended family.

on anther note my steering column is acting up it telescopes but it doesn't move up or down i can hear the motor making noise when i try to move it but it doesn't move, anyone got any advice that can help me out ?

 

There's a write up in the SC section about how to fix that. It's supposedly a plastic washer or something that gets worn out inside. Let me see if I can find the thread for you.

 

Ok it's the worm gear not being centered so you use washers to keep it tight.

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc-...ng-repair.html

 

oooo thx a million didn't know there was a thread on it already

 

hey guys ??,anybody has tt stock injectors and supra AFC?

 

I wanna do my tranny service.but I want to know what is a better fluid to use.

 

I don't have a technical question. But I did how ever have a tech. problem.I recently went back to my 67-65 .And the car was tuned for the OBX 68-101 back.Needless to say car wasn't running right ,just a little off. Mostly at idle.

Jordan spent a good 2.5 hours on the matter .Not only did he fix the stalling problem .But he remapped the fuel table for all levels of rpm.Thanks a lot Jordan.. I should be able to save some gas now because my car was drinking it like water.

I have to say I noticed your concern when I was hitting my max boost setting. And the car was leaning out .But remember two things .the boost was set at 74 % now for the obx that equated to 24 lbs but remember I had a massive leak because i didn't use lock washer. I never expected to be running the OBX as long as I did.

Basically when the Precision was leaning out we were still at 74 % and with no bst leak that equated to 26.5 .thus the car running in the 12's low 13's

But here is the twist at idle I've turned the fuel pressure regulated down from 40psi to 32 psi. There's plenty of fuel left to go around .But i can appreciate your concern and say it's been noted. Thanks for your help brother . it's truly appreciated ...

 

richard is quite right , but just pistons , rods on ge and gte are identical.. that way you can also check the condition of crank for scoring , check the tolerances of bearings which i would highly recc changing to a thermal coated acl race bearing , its just cheap insurance

if you are pulling head , might as well pull the motor out and do the bottom end stuff as mentioned above .. drill oil pan off car , plain and simple , its just easier that way , that way you also insure you have resealed or put a fresh seal on the upper craddle and lower pans, trying to drill oil pan in car is a friggin nightmare trust me been there down that

x100% with roger .. on stock compression you need to see 160 to 170 on a warm motor not cold .. if you are in the 150 or 140 you got either leaky valve and or bad compression ring

again agreed , it takes 2 hrs or less to remove a 2 jz , its just easier working on it on a stand as opposed to in car

thanks punky i feel honored




in hindsight , i wish i would have swapped out my pistons when i had my motor out and gone with a tt headgasket with some 9:0:1 cp pistons and acl bearings ,, its real nice to know you got a fresh bottom end down there so once you put back in you should be good to go for years down the road provided you opt for proper engine management , proper tune and dont grenede the block


rule of thumb , do it once , do it right and boost away



"to boost or not not boost is not the question , the question is do you have enough funds to fund your decision"

 

Jon glad I could help you out. There is a LONG way to go yet and toying around in the rain doesn't really make things any easier as you where on the limiter in an instant....well...instant after 4000 rpm LOL. I've been doing some reading on your issue and there is a VERY long thread right here on our own CL about the trannies not kicking down, squating, etc....I gotta find the link.

Hurry up and get everything together and get any additional hardware installed, so we can hit the rollers on Wednesday when I"m back. G luck at the track bro

 

I'll try sir.Overall the car feels great thanks again.. Now hurry up with that Megasquirt for the 2j ..

 

SHOLEXMAN since you seam to be the man in this thread i guess you can prob help me out. I have a GE Block with crank ONLY no pistons rods bearings nothing. Also the crank is just a crank nothing else either. What do I need to buy to complete a bottom end rebuild ? this is what I have exactly Block, Crank, Upper and Lower oil pans, oil pick up, and oil baffle. I need to know what bearings or seals etc i need to complete this