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Did my suspension upgrade today. Installed the flex z coilovers and adjustable end links. Adjusted ride height, and aligned. Didn’t take long to find out how stiff I needed dampening to fix my issues. Night and day difference. Basically removed all body role, front lift, and rear squat. No more nose dive under hard braking. Car feels so much more planted and responsive and much safer. I had even forgot that my rear swaybar had three settings and I was in the middle. Moved it to the stiffest setting while doing the links. All in all, it has a very tight street suspension now. I was even able to go lower and close my wheel gap. With the dampers stiff enough, they aren’t coming into contact anymore.
That looks really good and I know it feels more planted to the road!
Thanks, pics never do it justice, especially with my old phone. The tuck is nice front and rear after driving and settling. After a couple drives I feel really confident in the suspension. The car just feels ready to race now! I also forgot to mention that I also swapped to a set of aluminum lug nuts going back together. Not a crazy upgrade I know, but it was the final step to maximising the rotational weight reduction of the wheels/drivetrain. The couple pounds they shave is like spending $1,000 more for a set of wheels that much lighter. Also, they are open ended which is required for most racing venue inspections. Not saying I will be doing that, but that are ready in case.
I'm happy to finally be able to report that my fuel system hanger modifications worked out well and I am not experiencing running out of fuel at as much as half tank as others have had issues with. Particularly when changing to a double/triple hanger. "Kyles" build page has details on how to measure for and lengthen the pumps in the hanger when changing things out. I did basically the same thing as him. I recommend the Radium jet valve kit which pulls fuel from the passengers side of the saddle tank. Not having this set up right is what causes a failure to siphon fuel over and you run out at 1/2 tank. Those that have installed the PHR triple hanger and run out of fuel at 1/4 tank didn't get the pumps/pickups low enough. The hanger was actually made for the IS300. So follow the common sense of placing the them lower for the deeper fuel tank on the GS.
This is the first time I've actually ran it to empty with the gas light on. Between all the down time and back and forth to the tuner, I've had to keep filling it up. Always had a looming fear of running out of fuel early. I've been carrying a 5 Gal jug of fuel with me so if it happened I'd be able to take note of where it runs out and get out of the pickle by having fuel with me. Thankfully it is not an issue and I can finally rest easy on the running out of fuel worry.
I purchased a complete GS400 differential for $100 cash. Will be planning my 3.26 ring/pinion swap in the near future. Looking forward to making better use of the tight CD009 gears. I'll also be able to cruise the average freeway speed around here of 80mph @ 2650rpm instead of 3200rpm that the 3.92 gears do now. So it brings back a lot of lost fuel economy.
Car was down due to a leaking clutch line. Replaced that and so far so good. Installed the EBC Yellow Stuff pads front and rear. Need to brake in some still, but so far they feel great and give a nice bite. I’m finally down to some fine tuning for cold stars as my last issue before being able to say it’s a complete project.
Im in no hurry to change the ring and pinion out. I’ll do that one day when I feel up to it. For now looking forward to being able to drive it and enjoy all the hard work.
Last edited by TrueGS300; Jan 2, 2025 at 04:03 PM.
Getting ready to pull my diff and install the 3.26 ring/pinion into it. Disassembled the GS400 diff and swiped the gear set. Once I receive the seals and crush washer I ordered I’ll do the swap.
In an effort to have better cold starts, I installed a dedicated ECT sensor for the AEM ECU using a Mishimoto adapter in the upper rad hose. Still working on the programming/scaling. And the oil cap is because I couldn’t help myself . Another premium Serialnine part.
Will be pulling the diff next for the gear swap.
Waiting on one bearing from Toyota I wasn’t able to save, but all parts are cleaned, seals replaced, and new fluid ready for install. Ring gear torqued w/ loctite to the OS Giken LSD. Just have to press the rear bearing onto the pinion and put it back together.
A teaser of what’s next. I have ordered these carbon fiber parts and will be installing them as they arrive. The hood is a month out and the mirrors are two months out. I feel the car is finally worthy of these last body mods now that the engine, trans, and diff are completed. They will match my carbon fiber trunk too and give the exterior the final look I’m after. VIS Alfa Carbon fiber hood Flush mount hood pins Carbon fiber mirrors
Got the diff back together with the 3.26 gears. Test drove and man what a difference! Power band is much more usable and I can actually cruise at a good rpm making for way better fuel efficiency. Also installed some Figs lower subframe braces in place of the flimsy oem ones. Still loving the Serialnine solid diff bushings and of course the OS Giken LSD.