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Loving the progress! This is phase 3 of my build with is in 2026. I’d like to know how you’re liking the OS twin disk because that’s the one I want to run with a R154.
I'll be sure to update. I'm hoping for good things from the clutch. It's a very expensive set, but the benefits seem necessary for a street car. Should have a soft and smooth apply and hold 800 tq. My days of 6 puck racing clutches are over, getting too old for that bear of a setup.
Any tips or tricks on measuring for the air gap with the CSC? I've gotta drop my JK41 and measure again, it shifts OK but could be better. Also, have you figured out where to splice into on the trans for the reverse light signal?
Last edited by Kris9884; Oct 25, 2024 at 03:18 AM.
Any tips or tricks on measuring for the air gap with the CSC? I've gotta drop my JK41 and measure again, it shifts OK but could be better. Also, have you figured out where to splice into on the trans for the reverse light signal?
So the air gap is measured by removing the bellhousing from the transmission and installing it to the engine. Measure from the forks on the pressure plate (where the bearing touches) to the face of the bell housing. Place something straight across and measure the depth. Then on the transmission (before you put the bellhousing back on) measure from where that same surface sits and adjust the csc so it is at that same distance but MINUS 1/8" (.125") less than the measurement you took. So you end up with a 1/8" air gap.
In my case on my JK41a using the OEM bellhousing with the Collins adapter and the OS Giken twin disk, the measurement was exactly 2 and 1/8", making it very simple. I just put my csc right at 2 inches to give that 1/8" air gap. These were Tilton's instructions.
As for the reverse switch. I haven't been able to try it yet, but on the oem park/neutral switch connector, the solid red wire is for reverse. From what I can see it should only need that and a ground to the transmission case. I ordered a connector for the CD/JK reverse switch to make it simple and clean.
Made some good progress today. After beating the hell out of the tunnel to fit the transmission, its in and all buttoned up. Got the trans, driveshaft, starter and exhaust in. Next is the pedal/master and bleeding. Then refitting the interior with some shift boot customization and that sort of thing.
Tight fit, mounted with a polyurethane mount to keep it in place.
Thankful my exhaust still fits with ease
No more two piece steel drive shaft. One piece aluminum!
A thing of beauty
Perfect placement thanks to the Serialnine technical shifter
Might have been able to complete the install yesterday on my day off, but the water heater blew and I spent the day replacing that. Sabotages seem so common during a car project . Possibly done next week. Hopefully I'll at least able to test drive even if I don't have some of the little things like the shift boot or reverse lights worked out yet.
Got the pedal and master installed. Probably the the worst part of manual swapping a GS. Hours and hours of work just to accomplish such a small part. Had no luck bleeding on my own yet, will get to that next.
got the pedal and master installed. Probably the the worst part of manual swapping a gs. Hours and hours of work just to accomplish such a small part. Had no luck bleeding on my own yet, will get to that next.
I am aware of, and took a hard look at the HLSS bolt on pedal/master kit. I'm sure it would be an easier install and the way to go if sourcing parts for a swap. I really only went with this setup because it saved a lot of money to use what came with the kit I bought. If the HLSS kit didn't require removing the foot parking brake and the installation of a hand brake, it would only be around $450. I'd have jumped on that just for the quality and ease of installation. I just have no interest in drifting, which is mainly the point of a hand brake swap in these cars, and to do both their kits would have cost $1,000 after purchasing the kits and sourcing the handbrake and cables etc. So I decided to keep the foot brake and just do the drilling and dremeling to make the IS300 pedal/master work. Anyone interested in a manual swap/drifting should definitely take a look at HLSS because both kits are designed to work together and give the easiest/cleanest swap available.
I finished the entire manual swap, got the master/slave bled and have a good pedal, interior all back together etc. Went to start, and no crank . Obviously removing the shifter assembly/auto trans and wiring in the ATEMU is stopping the ECU from seeing park or neutral to complete the starting circuit. The point of the ATEMU was to emulate all the necessary signals to the ECU though. So now I'll have to dance around with the wiring to see what's up.
. Possibly done next week. Hopefully I'll at least able to test drive even if I don't have some of the little things like the shift boot or reverse lights worked out yet.
. Obviously removing the shifter assembly/auto trans and wiring in the ATEMU is stopping the ECU from seeing park or neutral to complete the starting circuit. The point of the ATEMU was to emulate all the necessary signals to the ECU though. So now I'll have to dance around with the wiring to see what's up.