@TrueGS300 was wondering if you can share the part number you used to purchase your key card? i followed all the information on this forum and my local dealer was able to order it, but they weren't able to program it.

 

I'm trying to think of what you are referring too, but can't come up with it. What kind of key card? Are you talking about a key fob?

 

My bad, it was about the key fob, but i just realized you're building a JZS160/UZS160 so it may not work for me. Appreciate the quick response though! and sick build!

 

After about a year of down time I've started to get the itch again and want to see my GS back in action. This last year was a busy one, but I finally have time and motivation now to get back to the car. I bought my first house and had a real wedding ceremony for my wife and I finally. So pretty busy as you can imagine. I started tackling a few areas on the car both performance and cosmetically. Will be looking forward to sharing some pics when I feel it's worthy. I've never given it much attention as it was a $900 car. But I look at it and see all the time and money I've invested and I can't help but want to clean it up a bit. I did finally get around to installing my new door panel and the chrome door handles/trunk garnish. Also finally installed a TTE style front lip I've had sitting around a couple years. I also relocated the front license plate to the front right so it's out of the way of the FMIC. So there are some big changes on the exterior. But the paint is in dire need of restoration and frankly an embarrassment.

I did invest in a dual action orbital sander/polisher, cutting compound, several levels of pads, polishes, headlight attachments etc. Many things for the exterior! I am going to do the best I can to make her shine again. It is just a nasty surface of swirls and scratches and deep water marks all over. Will be tackling that soon.

My biggest investment I'm working on today is a PHR triple pump hanger which Kyle has detailed very well in his build thread (also learned a lot form your video bro) so thanks for that ! I wont go into a bunch of pics of the install or anything since he's done that well. But I will ensure to get the pump locations good relative to the OEM hanger before installing so I don't run into the premature empty tank issue. Couple reasons for the PHR hanger. One, I never felt all that comfortable with my custom hanger. Just too much invested in the engine/car to not have the best possible fuel delivery. And second. I'm pretty sure the pump I have is a knock off. I was concerned at the time but was assured it wasn't and was scoffed at. However as I hold the two new pumps I can see and feel the difference in weight/quality and the fact they came in real boxes, not just a white plane one, and this time I got them from a really reputable source. All these reasons make me think the one I have in the car is a knock off. I've been experiencing odd lean conditions at times going into boost. And this might explain some of my odd tuning issues. Anyways, I will verify this today when I get that pump out and give the seller some hell for potentially destroying my $5,000 engine (if that's the case).

My other current project on the car is a surprise that I can't wait to share! Got my hands on a rare envy inspiring piece for the interior .

Pics and updated coming soon guys. Lots going on. And I have my sights set on finally getting this tune dialed in at all costs within a couple months hopefully.

 

The PHR hanger is in and running on one of two 525 pumps. The other is ready to be staged during tuning, but for now the one is wired in with the DeastschWerks hot-wire kit I've been using. Car seems more stable when looking at the A/F ratio gauge. Less leaning out and staying slightly richer in all conditions (possibly due to the pump being real and actually pushing fuel). Will need tuning of course. All in all it went well. Really hope the jet valve/fuel siphon works and the pumps are at correct level because my setup was working fine and that was my own hack job lol.

My plan is simple. I went straight to fuel up. Filled the tank, and will drive till empty (however long that takes as I don't drive it that often) carrying a full gas container with me. I will verify the fuel level indicated when fuel runs out and how many gallons in addition to my 5 Gallon container it takes to fill the tank and see if it's close to the 19.8 - 20 Gallons the tank holds.

Kinda feel like I wasted money on the dual pump harness I bought with the hanger ($300). The instructions say one should run like stock and the other(s) staged in. But the harness is meant to run both off the stand-alone ECU using tiny trigger wires, then relaying in the heavy gauge power/ground wires. So you can't drive the car without immediate tuning ! I put the harness aside and just wired the one in using the OEM system and DearshWerks heavy gauge wire kit. So I guess I'll have to set it up for ECU triggering come tuning time. But it's almost like it's more work for me to use their harness now. Because I will have to undo my current setup. Otherwise use such an expensive harness to trigger in just the second pump . Honestly, it makes sense to get the dual pump harness for 3 pumps, and no harness for 2... but that's just my observation. Because you always want to wire in one as a stock pump.. They don't offer a single harness of course, but that would be what I rather do for the second pump to cut down on weight and wire clutter. In fact that's what I'll do. I just turn the harness into a single and trigger the second pump by itself from the ECU. Wasted money but oh well.. I guess I'll have a spare harness ready for a future build someday.

And come to think of it, that means you're better off getting the triple pump harness even if you plan to run only 2 as it's the same price as the dual harness! Then you just have extra *****! What a weird concept this harness thing is.. I'd just trigger in the second pump with one of them and literally have a free dual pump harness left over if I had bough the triple instead of dual harness.

 

Glad to hear you're making progress on your build again. I completely understand the life happens component - and it does. It's just nice when you can get back to the project instead of having to ditch it entirely.

I was initially contemplating the hanger from PHR also and had the same mindset - just get the triple pump wiring if you're going to go that way because it's priced the same as the dual, for some reason.

Not that its any help to you at this point, but maybe for others coming across your thread, I'll comment here that I utilized the kit from Radium. I've consistently been pleased with their products and service. They sell a universal pump wiring kit. http://www.radiumauto.com/DIY-Fuel-P...-Kit-P368.aspx

I run my primary pump trigger with the stock ECU pump wire, then operate the secondary from my Haltech. At $60 per pump wire kit, it's quite a bit less expensive than the PHR kit offered and I feel like the quality is great.

 

Big fan of Radium as well. I am running several of their fuel system parts. Ya I plan to modify my dual hanger into two separate singles and trigger the 2nd pump off my AEM Infinity ECU when tuning time comes. I'll just have a spare harness for something else someday.

What do you think of these pump comparisons? You can see some differences in the one I had before (which I think is a knock off). First, there is a different number on it, Second, the real ones have numbers on the side where the wires come out, and on the knock off it's on the fuel outlet side. And third, from the bottom there is a totally different design in the metal.

I got the first one from a company I really like and have got great stuff from called DriftMotion. But I'm wondering if I should light them up about this or just cut my losses. It's possible TI/Walbro just changed the pump design..

 

For my next attempt to figure out the car's inability to dyno/stuck in some sort of power limiting mode, I will be replacing the torque converter with an OEM re-man from RockAuto. I am am unhappy that I will have to do this job again altogether and will be even more upset if this doesn't fix the issue and all I accomplish is losing my 3200 stall converter and that performance for nothing as well as the expense of the new one/fluid etc. I should just be manual swapping anyway. I'm so sick of this *****.

Anyways, hear are some compelling reasons to give this a try and I'm open to thoughts on this.

First: the PowerDynamix transmission from this worshiped Jeff guy was $2,500ish bucks with shipping and I'd really like to be able to use it. He says with confidence that the car should not even know there is a difference. It is built to be a direct swap and all things stay the same electrically/data wise. So if all is well with the transmission, then my higher stall converter is possibly the issue. Which brings me to my second reasons I'm thinking the TC.

Second: The issues with the converter itself.. or possible issues.. So I had PI industries re-stall my OEM converter. They could have screwed up, but they are pretty reputable... I spoke to Jeff on several occasions and he doesn't feel the stall change should cause my issue though. And it should be able to be tuned for. However I am getting an input shaft turbine speed sensor circuit code. This may or may not be a problem considering I have many ghost codes now from several changed/deleted systems. It may be what's putting the car into a reduced power mode and why I can't get VVT to work though. Hard to prove anything..

However, here are some interesting facts about this. I have checked for power/ground on the input shaft sensor wiring, and tested/swapped speed sensors. I see the data on the scanner while driving. The car shifts into all gears fine and the TC does lock up. So it is all working. But maybe the initial slip of the higher stall is just enough to screw everything up?Another thing to consider is that higher stall converters are a no-brainer for performance auto builds. If these guys build a high power trans for these cars, then obviously they up the stall as well. It should be able to be done. But there is the possibility that PI messed something up.. but I don't think it would work so well for TC lock up etc. That's usually what goes first when there's a TC issue.

Anyways, I have obviously been beating my brains out about this for over a year now and have some things I've found out. One is that I have tried everything I can to get VVT to work on this tune. It simply will not work. I'm sure now that it was working before this transmission /TC swap. The tuner said he got it working back then (this is before my engine build/trans swap). I even thought they lied about it working because it doesn't now, but now it's starting to make sense. I read that the ECU reverts to full retard on the timing when it's in this limited power mode. And this limited power mode is a problem people get when manual swapping (or in my case dicking with the auto trans). That's why you use an emulator when manual swapping to have VVT and other systems work. I'm thinking this is what I have going on. I replaced the VVT sprocket and OCV valve with from the dealer parts in an attempt to fix this. I even pinned/wired the stand alone ECU for VVT and ran directly to it. So there is no way it isn't working other than this ridiculous reduced power mode. The big question is, why is it there? The TC seems to be the likely cause. But it both makes sense and doesn't.

A third reason to try this is that it's about a $7,000 ordeal to manual swap this car. I'm gonna do it if this damn TC swap/re-tune doesn't do the trick, but I am trying to avoid the cost. I did want this car to remain auto and be an easy daily with big power on tap. I'm just out of ideas and it's the last thing I can try before going manual. How disappointing either way though. Either it still won't work and I wasted more time and money, or it does and I just can't run a higher stall and get any reasonable drive-drain performance with my build.

 

For reference, here are my two pumps. The single pump pics are of my 295 (same as your 285, but no check valve) and the other came from PHR - 485 or whatever - I forget. Slightly less flow but with a check valve. I can see a difference in the pickup end of the pump that you suspect as a counterfeit. Can't know for sure though - maybe it was a change in manufacturing, etc. Regardless, for about $150 it's money well spent to be sure you have an authentic one.

 

So this is a tough situation you're in - I know you know. I'm having a hard time thinking it's the torque converter. I hope for sake of you figuring this out that I'm wrong and that it is. But Jeff knows his stuff. Check the archives here and he also has a handful of videos on youtube. Obviously nobody knows everything, but I'd take his word over most in the 2GS space.

I'm grasping here and don't have much for you other than moral support and to say I hear where you're coming from. But have you looked into the products offered by all4swap? They seem to have a pretty decent catalog of product offering - nothing specific that I think is a direct application, but maybe worth exchanging a couple of emails to see if they have any ideas for you if you feel convinced this is a transmission-related issue.

Based on what you're saying, I'm assuming your piggyback isn't controlling the VVTI? But are you able to log the position with your ECU and validate it's fully retarded when you're on the dyno giving it the beans? I ask because I am controlling my VVTI with the Haltech. I wonder if it were still within stock ECU control, would it be putting full retard on my timing also? I have found instances where my ECU - and I think I've documented it in my thread - will be lazy to open the throttle fully - instead giving me a 1-2 second delay holding at about 50%-60% TPS - when I smash the pedal. I've never been able to crack why it's doing that - but I have been able to determine that a reset of the stock ECU (pull battery terminal for 15 seconds) will set things back to normal for some amount of time / cycles. I'm not sure what the ECU is interpreting to **** it off so. I've read - I think on an IS board - that someone had a similar situation occur due to high knock counts. However, in my situation I've logged the knock and cannot correlate that to what's happening to me - but worth checking on your end.

Other than the VVTI being retarded, what other systems are misbehaving? Are you logging TPS? What's it doing and does it misbehave always or only during certain conditions?

 

I’ve finally got it! The P&P harness has been the issue this whole time. I should have known when I had to pin for a EBC and try to pin for vvt. It is pinned for it, but in the wrong place. Look at this:

Here are the diagrams for my car’s ECU. And look at the ones Boomslang used for their pins.




Here is the rest of the Boomslang harness pins

If you look at the VVT OCV for example. It is in connector E2 #18. But in the harness it is pinned to E7-17. So my problem has been trusting this harness all along. I will have to find all the inputs that are incorrect and move them to the proper locations. I’m pretty sure this is the final answer on what’s been going on!

 

I am still interested in your 3200 PI converter if you don’t have a home lined up for it all ready? I think we talked about it a few months ago and there someone already interested but u said I could have dibs if that fell thru? Please send me a pm if it’s going to be available
And also your $7000 figure looks a little high, you can get the full bolt on C009 kit with brand new trans for less than $5400 or if u can find a used trans and the pedals, slave cylinders and stuff u get the rest of the stuff for under $3000.
https://collinsadapters.com/swap-kit...ation-kit.html

 

I suspect something like this is more likely your solution set. And hopefully easier than pulling a transmission (again).

 

your not helping my cause here, I’d like to get my hands on that modified torque converter. So please share all your negative experiences with those damn build killers instead of trying to sell a wire harnesss that you and buddies build and sell

 

Also, as a sanity check this Boomslang documented GE OCV- Pin location lines up with the similar connector and pin location on the GTE connector set (Plug B1), unsurprisingly.

Source: http://wilbo666.pbworks.com/w/page/4...ngine%20Wiring