Front suspension change procedure
Front suspension change procedure
I've done a few suspension mods on my previous cars, but I'm about to replace my GS400's suspension later this month, and I have 1 question, so I can be prepared ahead of time:
Are there any special tools and/or procedures for getting the upper suspension arm from the steering knuckle?
I must admit I haven't fully looked at it yet, but everything else with the suspension removal looks rather straightforward like the my other cars I've worked on. See the PDF file on the process, so you know fully what I'm talking about.
Are there any special tools and/or procedures for getting the upper suspension arm from the steering knuckle?
I must admit I haven't fully looked at it yet, but everything else with the suspension removal looks rather straightforward like the my other cars I've worked on. See the PDF file on the process, so you know fully what I'm talking about.
So I talked w/ VVTi, and here's what he has to say about removal of the above parts:
VVT-i wrote on 12-16-03 07:22:
Yeah it pretty straight forward. The upper control arm can be remove from the knuckle by using the hammer( if you don't have the remover) hit it right at the knuckle where the ball joint from the upper control arm go into. You may have to hit it about 3-6 times before the ball joint comes loose. Becareful not to hit it at the thread of the ball joint and becareful when it come loose the knuckle might swing toward you.
Good luck
Yeah it pretty straight forward. The upper control arm can be remove from the knuckle by using the hammer( if you don't have the remover) hit it right at the knuckle where the ball joint from the upper control arm go into. You may have to hit it about 3-6 times before the ball joint comes loose. Becareful not to hit it at the thread of the ball joint and becareful when it come loose the knuckle might swing toward you.
Good luck
SeattleGS400 wrote on 12-16-03 11:17:
That sounds like it's pretty easy. I'm assuming to use a rubber hammer (as opposed to a metal one) to get the steering knuckle out from the upper suspension arm? Also, as a potential alternative, I know that some places rent out tools for automotive work, what specifically (i.e. the exact names) could I rent to get the steering knuckle from teh upper arm suspension instead?
Thanks for your advice, it's greatly appreciated.
That sounds like it's pretty easy. I'm assuming to use a rubber hammer (as opposed to a metal one) to get the steering knuckle out from the upper suspension arm? Also, as a potential alternative, I know that some places rent out tools for automotive work, what specifically (i.e. the exact names) could I rent to get the steering knuckle from teh upper arm suspension instead?
Thanks for your advice, it's greatly appreciated.
VVT-i wrote on 12-16-03 13:52
If you can rent the ball joint puller or seperator it will work find. I hope it will come with all the adapter to make it fit on the upper ball joint and push the ball joint out of the knuckle.
The rubber hammer will not do the job. To use the hammer you will need to be real careful and know you're doing.
Thanks
If you can rent the ball joint puller or seperator it will work find. I hope it will come with all the adapter to make it fit on the upper ball joint and push the ball joint out of the knuckle.
The rubber hammer will not do the job. To use the hammer you will need to be real careful and know you're doing.
Thanks
Last edited by SeattleGS400; Dec 16, 2003 at 03:26 PM.
bro
i have done my gs 3 times , done my brother in laws last week and did my ls a few times
use a short handle 4 lb mini sledge. hit the part that vvti was talking about were the joint goes into 3-6 times .. hit the square part of it being very carful not to hit the threads.. thats why i say a 4lb sledge. you dont have to swing with a wide swing.. a few knocks and the joint pops out
good luck bro
i have done my gs 3 times , done my brother in laws last week and did my ls a few times
use a short handle 4 lb mini sledge. hit the part that vvti was talking about were the joint goes into 3-6 times .. hit the square part of it being very carful not to hit the threads.. thats why i say a 4lb sledge. you dont have to swing with a wide swing.. a few knocks and the joint pops out
good luck bro
Sounds easy enough--thanks for the info. By the way, did you really have to remove the front caliper to get to the front shock? That's a first for me, if it is. . .
Anyways, any tricks/info I should keep in mind for the rears? The rears seem relatively easy (essentially, remove back side trunk covers for top access, and then whole 2nd lower suspension member--I have the instructions). Any experiences that you want share will make me a wiser a person when I start it this weekend.
Thanks.
Anyways, any tricks/info I should keep in mind for the rears? The rears seem relatively easy (essentially, remove back side trunk covers for top access, and then whole 2nd lower suspension member--I have the instructions). Any experiences that you want share will make me a wiser a person when I start it this weekend.
Thanks.
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From: D2'sville
Originally posted by lexforlife
bro
i have done my gs 3 times , done my brother in laws last week and did my ls a few times
bro
i have done my gs 3 times , done my brother in laws last week and did my ls a few times
Thanks in advance
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no , you dont remove the caliper to remove the front assembly.. but you will have to disconnect the front sway bar at the link (1 nut and 1 bolt facing oppof each other) so you can get the bolt out of the bottom of the strut.. also make sure you remove the 2 10mm bolts holding the abs sensor on to the strut assembly and onto the inner part of the fender wheel for when that joint pops and the lower part of susp drops you will strain the inner wire of the sensor and that will cost ya..
the rears are abit tricky , the rear upper control arm joint also needs to be knocked out , disconnect the rear sway bar links from the upper part of the link , disconnect on the drivers side the load sensor for the self leveling system if you have hid lights , its best if you have 2 people to help with the rear so 1 can stick a long handle or skinny pry bar in the slit in the control arm and use it as a lever to push the arm down while the second person wiggles the assembly out ..
good luck
the rears are abit tricky , the rear upper control arm joint also needs to be knocked out , disconnect the rear sway bar links from the upper part of the link , disconnect on the drivers side the load sensor for the self leveling system if you have hid lights , its best if you have 2 people to help with the rear so 1 can stick a long handle or skinny pry bar in the slit in the control arm and use it as a lever to push the arm down while the second person wiggles the assembly out ..
good luck
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lexforlife:
Hey thanks for the info upfront. It should go pretty smoothly now that I have enough info to start this. The factory instructions mention removal of the front caliper, and since you mentioned that you don't have to remove it, that's one less thing to take out. Maybe they mention it to make things easier?
However, for the rears, I have a different set of instructions from what you mentioned--the Lexus manual only has you remove the following:
1) rear trunk liner cover for access to top shock bolts
2) removal of rear suspension arm #2 (includes the HID leveling assembly)
3) removal of the 2 bolts that hold the shock/spring assembly onto the frame.
It doesn't mention removal of the upper control arm, nor disconnecting the rear sway bar links. I'll see how well the Lexus factory instructions work for the rear removal--it just might be a new way for you to do things
See the following PDFs for info.
Hey thanks for the info upfront. It should go pretty smoothly now that I have enough info to start this. The factory instructions mention removal of the front caliper, and since you mentioned that you don't have to remove it, that's one less thing to take out. Maybe they mention it to make things easier?
However, for the rears, I have a different set of instructions from what you mentioned--the Lexus manual only has you remove the following:
1) rear trunk liner cover for access to top shock bolts
2) removal of rear suspension arm #2 (includes the HID leveling assembly)
3) removal of the 2 bolts that hold the shock/spring assembly onto the frame.
It doesn't mention removal of the upper control arm, nor disconnecting the rear sway bar links. I'll see how well the Lexus factory instructions work for the rear removal--it just might be a new way for you to do things
See the following PDFs for info.
And how to remove the rear suspension arm #2. . .
Note, you only have to remove rear suspension arm #2 for the rear shock assembly removal, not rear suspension arm #1 to take out the rear suspension, so save yourself some work!
Note, you only have to remove rear suspension arm #2 for the rear shock assembly removal, not rear suspension arm #1 to take out the rear suspension, so save yourself some work!
not always does the manuels illustrate the best way to do something , just like mapquest does not map out the most direct route to get somewhere
removal of the lower arm is just too much work , its much easier to knock the upper joint for the upper control arm (rears) then disconnect the sway bar link for the end link itself , then you can just step on the pry bar (gently of course) as a lever to mover the lower arm downwards to remove strut assembly , very very easy to do , just helps to have 2 people doing it
removal of the lower arm is just too much work , its much easier to knock the upper joint for the upper control arm (rears) then disconnect the sway bar link for the end link itself , then you can just step on the pry bar (gently of course) as a lever to mover the lower arm downwards to remove strut assembly , very very easy to do , just helps to have 2 people doing it
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