So my 97 LS400 has the common EGR flex tube leak.

Exhaust shop wants $600 to change. I can buy the OEM part for less than $150.

I've read all the posts I could find on this repair and I'm amazed at the range of opinions. One guy says he did it in 30 minutes without removing anything and another says it took 6 hours and he pulled off all sorts of things.

Who has done this and just how difficult was it?

My thought right now is that I will buy the part and give it a shot myself. Plan is to raise the car on jack stands, take off the passenger side wheel and then probably the catalytic converter, and then see just how hard it is going to be. Sounds like the upper nuts can be reached from below with a long extension.


This car has 208,000 miles. The engine mounts have never been changed. They feel fine though I have nothing to compare. While doing the EGR tube, would it be a mistake to NOT change the engine mounts?

 

I'm guessing the best bet will be removing the drive shaft and lower the rear of the transmission down to gain access to it. I have not done it. And all the means you will need to disconnect the exhaust too. That may mean pulling up the carpet O2 sensors you know you don't want to break wires or maybe tie or block the exhaust up. removing a wheel well ? That's not going to accomplish a thing. I'm not sure what you mean actually, the plastic liners just keep the junk out of the fender and will give you access to things like electric connectors, and such.

 

Kill two birds with one stone! If you change the EGR pipe,change the starter too.There is a recent thread on this very subject and it can be found if you do a search.Buy a reman Denso starter!Good luck.

 

For sure, if he hasn't changed his starter yet, just go with taking out the intakes, the back wiring harness and back coolant bridge. Only cost $150 or so more to put in a starter. You can get to the lower bolts of the EGR without taking out the catalytic converter.

 

So which of you has changed your EGR tube and starter? I read that changing the starter is a royal PITA.

Having just completed the full timing job, I'm not looking to find more work if I can just change the EGR tube in 30 minutes.

 

I did both this past summer, but at separate times. That is why I recommend doing both at the same time. Takes all day(maybe two- if you're 65 like I am) if you go the take the intakes out way. At least it did for an old duffer like me. I have read of using the long tool method, but I would think you would need some kind of camera to guide you as it is very narrow to the firewall with the bolts on the upper egr pipe side. BTW, also just did my timing belt so understand about not wanting another long process. The good news about changing out the starter and the egr pipe is it only takes an additional 10 minutes to do the egr pipe once the starter is out and replaced.

 

I had mine welded by a local guy. It was risky since the metal was super thin, but he built up the weld around the accordion shaped portions of the EGR tube and made it stronger than a new one will ever be. Cost me 20 bucks and took him an hour or so.

Best way is to get at it is from the bottom. Unbolt the pass. side exhaust from the cat and drop it down. You'll also want to try and remove the catalytic converter to get you more access. But its going to be a PITA, so make sure you spray penetrating lube on there well in advance. You'll need at least a 20" long extension with a swivel universal joint. To make the joint not as limp, I taped electrical tape around it so it was stiffer and could be positioned in the exact angle I needed.

Also don't cheap out, get Lexus gaskets at the dealer for the EGR tube, they're about 14 bucks for both, so there's no reason not to.

Don't waste time and energy replacing the starter if your's is working fine. Fix it when it needs to be fixed. This EGR tube when attacked from the bottom of the car is in no way close or makes changing the starter any easier.







This is what the crack used to look like:



And this is what took the longest to repair for the job, a stripped out stud that took a couple tries over the course of two days to remove and put a bolt in place of after drilling out the stud hole to accept a larger bolt. This stud was heat cycled so many times over the course of the 255k that it would not come out with even heating up with a propane torch. I had to drill it out. which sucked.



How big the tube is:

 

I'd be a little scared that the tube would be too rigid and would crack again. Isn't that what the accordion shape of the pipe is for?- to give it some flex from vibrations? Looks like from a work standpoint you may have gained some going this route, but the time seems about the same.

 

i agree with that losiracer2 shared, that you should only replace the pipe and not the starter if it's working ok.

i attempted to do mine, and was foiled by the last bolt at the very top at the intake manifold. i did have to remove the pass side cat (spray lots of penetrating lube to loosen the rusted hardware). a LONG extension is needed and a universal joint.

i had to take my car to a shop to finish the job due to the bolt i could not loosen (ended up rounding the head) and the shop simply grabbed the pipe with a vice grip and twisted it off. this could only be done bc only one bolt remained and the entire pipe was used to leverage the bolt loose. such as simple solution that cost me $300...i was livid as to the simpleness of it!

 

BTW, there is one other option if the pipe is busted through. You could block off the pipe at the bottom with a slim metal shim. I did that for about two months and it worked fine for stopping the noise and the smell. Only downside is the CEL light will remain on. I'm **** enough that I had to fix that light.