Identifying leaky EGR pipe
#1
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Identifying leaky EGR pipe
Got what sounds like an exhaust leak in my '95 LS400. Been reading a lot about this horrendous egr tube, and it looks like the car throws codes when this is a problem. My car isn't throwing codes...but I feel like the egr tube would be such a giant PITA, that has to be it.
How can you ID a cracked egr tube with no codes? Or does the absence of codes mean the egr tube is okay and I have to look for expensive fixes elsewhere?
How can you ID a cracked egr tube with no codes? Or does the absence of codes mean the egr tube is okay and I have to look for expensive fixes elsewhere?
Last edited by UNCJD; 09-07-15 at 06:26 PM.
#2
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just use a little common sense, start car, put a piece of vacuum hose up to your ear and the other end down behind the engine by the tube and listen and then draw your own conclusions..... it worked for me
You do not have to remove the transmission or even lower it, but you will need to remove the passenger side catalytic converter as there's no room and not a suitable tool made to get at it the pipe fittings. When you do this, you'll probably break at least one exhaust stud on the manifold. Be prepared to drill it out if necessary.
You do not have to remove the transmission or even lower it, but you will need to remove the passenger side catalytic converter as there's no room and not a suitable tool made to get at it the pipe fittings. When you do this, you'll probably break at least one exhaust stud on the manifold. Be prepared to drill it out if necessary.
#4
http://www.harborfreight.com/t-bar-w...het-98484.html
The bolts/nuts (I forget what they are) on the back of the coolant bridge are the difficult ones. The lower EGR goes from the exhaust to the back of the coolant bridge then a shorter upper EGR to the upper intake manifold/surge tank
When I did my starter replacement on my 1995 LS400 this rinky dink little tool from harbor freight saved me big time.
#5
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I used this tool from harbor freight to remove the lower EGR tube from the exhaust connection.
http://www.harborfreight.com/t-bar-w...het-98484.html
The bolts/nuts (I forget what they are) on the back of the coolant bridge are the difficult ones. The lower EGR goes from the exhaust to the back of the coolant bridge then a shorter upper EGR to the upper intake manifold/surge tank
When I did my starter replacement on my 1995 LS400 this rinky dink little tool from harbor freight saved me big time.
http://www.harborfreight.com/t-bar-w...het-98484.html
The bolts/nuts (I forget what they are) on the back of the coolant bridge are the difficult ones. The lower EGR goes from the exhaust to the back of the coolant bridge then a shorter upper EGR to the upper intake manifold/surge tank
When I did my starter replacement on my 1995 LS400 this rinky dink little tool from harbor freight saved me big time.
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#10
i had a leaking EGR tube and it never threw a code, and it even passed a smog check! i just got annoyed at the smell of exhaust in the cabin and the terrible sound it made during acceleration, so i replaced it.
as for the leaking y-pipe, depending on location, it might have to be dropped to fully repair. you can bandage it with exhaust tape but it will eventually leak again and will need a permanent solution, such as welding. any muffler shop should be capable!
as for the leaking y-pipe, depending on location, it might have to be dropped to fully repair. you can bandage it with exhaust tape but it will eventually leak again and will need a permanent solution, such as welding. any muffler shop should be capable!
#11
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Like timmy said any competent exhaust shop can patch it up but if it's rusted like mine it will eventually leak again. I've been eyeing a Y-pipe on ebay for a couple of months. When I get around to it I will buy all new bolts and clamps and get it changed out. My car is louder than I like at idle.
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