Amp install problems
recently put a sub and amp in my 2013 gs (non ML stereo). When I was done and connected the battery the fuse on the wire blew. I double checked everything and found a couple possible causes but want to make sure I got everything right before wasting any more fuses.
I used a kicker kisloc loc that doesn't have a turn on wire, just speakers and ground. I tapped the small white wire on the other harness and have since found it is only 5v and I'm wondering if it might be constant power, possibly making the amp turn on when I connect the battery. I'm planning on finding a 12v known ignition source. I counted from the back of the harness instead of the front when tapping the speaker wires but don't think that would have caused the problem.
I've done several installs over the years with no problems but those have all been with aftermarket head units so I don't have any experience using an loc.
What rating is fuse that blew? Is it part of some amp wiring kit? What rating is the amp you installed? The fact it might "be constant on" versus come on later doesn't make sense. How would it not blow when you actually start listening to music and power demand increases.
Did you check to make sure your power wire going to the battery isn't shorted to ground? Did you disconnect the power wire from the amp to make sure it's not having continuity to ground? Then when you connect the power wire to the amp, the continuity to ground shouldn't be going low.
https://sundownaudio.com/collections...ss-d-amplifier
To verify, you did the following checks?
With amp disconnected:
Continuity mode, power wire to ground - no continuity
Continuity mode, negative to ground - continuity
With amp connected:
Continuity mode, power wire to ground - no continuity
Continuity mode, negative wire to ground - continuity
I've never played with "large" amps like that, but is there a possibility that a 3kW amp would have a large inrush current from its internal caps that might be popping the 60A fuse?
https://sundownaudio.com/collections...ss-d-amplifier
At this point I intend to use 1/0 and I have a 250amp fuse. Maybe I'm not thinking about it the right way but if there's nothing else wrong the fuse shouldn't blow regardless of amp rating and if the fuse on the 1/0 doesn't blow it could just keep heating up. That's why I haven't changed the wire yet.
To verify, you did the following checks?
With amp disconnected:
Continuity mode, power wire to ground - no continuity
Continuity mode, negative to ground - continuity
With amp connected:
Continuity mode, power wire to ground - no continuity
Continuity mode, negative wire to ground - continuity
I've never played with "large" amps like that, but is there a possibility that a 3kW amp would have a large inrush current from its internal caps that might be popping the 60A fuse?
First I checked with the wires connected to the amp. (Obviously not connected to the battery) And got ground at both terminals
Removed the power wire from the amp and it didn't have power or ground but the+ terminal on the amp had ground. Based on that I don't think the wire is shorted. I'm really hoping the amp isn't messed up. It was good in my last car.
I'm planning to replace the wire with 1/0 and a 250a fuse. I had been thinking it was a good idea to figure this out first but you may be right.
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