Gs3500

Nice job on the video! Too bad you didn't remove the overflow. However you did still explain that fluid check process. 2 thumbs up

speedkar9

Thanks, yeah I was kinda bummed by the overflow bolt being rusted. I'll pull the pan, redo the gasket and take care of it next year hopefully.

ez12a

I havent had problems with ramps sliding out when used on a concrete driveway. The smooth concrete inside say a garage is probably too slick.

Also, did you wedge the ramps against the tires before trying to drive up on them? My ramps have a little rubber piece at the edge of the ramp that you wedge underneath the tire like a wheel choc, which keeps it in place as you drive up it. Only time i had the ramps slide a tiny bit was when i hit the brakes suddenly after cresting the bump before the plateau.

Thanks for the video!

Also something to note, when trying to get the car into trans temp mode, when i was toggling between D and N the drive light lit and stayed lit until i moved it back to park. I'm guessing the D light will light up when you hit that mode as a visual indicator.

speedkar9

Yes I wedged the ramps up under the wheel before driving up. Mine have rubber pieces under them but I guess they're worn out. Anyway, I found that putting an old rubber floor mat underneath them will stop them from sliding. This should make things much easier.

Thanks for the feedback on the video. I did mess up a bit when filming the trans temp indication part, I didn't shift from N to D fast enough. I got it on the second or third try though.

Tumuch27

I decided to go ahead and give the Drain and fill a shot today after the stutter problem between 20 and 30 mph which had been a thorn in my side for the last few months. I'm in a 2008 GS 350 AWD and My Baby just passed 102K miles and I figured it was time. Like many others have noted, the local dealer wouldn't touch it and would hit me for $450 if I wouldn't take no for an answer for a regular drain and fill (not a flush).

I used regular ramps to get her front end off the ground and jack stands at the rear as she naturally sits pretty low. The drain bolt was a 14 mm bolt and the fill plug was a 24 mm. Both were broken with very little leverage. Long and short of it I spent about an hour to drain 3 quarts of mostly brown fluid from the drain pan. I added a little more than 3 quarts of the Toyota WS fluid via the $7 pump from Arbor Freight and buttoned her up. Checked her for leaks and lowered her back to the ground.

Took her for a spin and 'Wallah' the stutter is gone and she is shifting beautifully! I couldn't be happier and look forward to the next drain and fill I'll perform in another few thousand miles at my next oil change interval. Thanks to everyone that has contributed to this post for your detailed explanations/descriptions. Happy Holidays Folks!

SydneyAust

Many thanks again alchemist for posting these instructions and starting this thread originally, needless to say it was much appreciated.

Like those before me, I gave this a shot today and all has worked out well thanks to you very clear instructions, coupled with the photo's which makes it so much easier to follow and work through.

The only things I did a little different was rather than use a pump to push the new ATF into fill hole, I borrowed somebody else's idea and used a funnel with tubing from the engine down to the ATF fill hole. A couple of other threads had noted that you might be pumping for a while and it was easier and quicker to use gravity ... this tip worked very well for me.

The other change I made was to do multiple drain and fills at the same time, which you had alluded to. In reading other threads, I picked up that those that had an electric pump and used the oil cooler to 'flush' the system had worked out that the transmission would pump 1 quart every 7 seconds. They would then generally pump out no more than 2 to 3 quarts at a time this way and then top up via the ATF fill hole. Like you, they all noted how important it was to be precise with measuring exactly what was pumped out and then replace this exact same amount. These threads were actually located on the Toyota Tundra / Tacoma site as I had searched around for others experience knowing that we both use the same A760E Transmission.

As I didn't have an oil pump, and have next to know mechanical knowledge, the oil cooler 'flush' approach was well beyond my capacity. What I did do instead was to complete the drain and fill as you had noted, then whilst my car was on the jack stands, start the engine and let it idle for approx. 17 seconds in the hope that the transmission pump would pick up the new fluid and push another 2.5 dirty old quarts into the drain pan. Whilst this appeared to work, it wasn't until the third drain and fill that I noted the ATF fluid becoming a lot brighter.

I completed four drain and fills with this method, with each drain and fill right on 2.3 to 2.4 quarts. As such I used 9.4 quarts, knowing that the transmission in total holds 11.7 quarts. By the fourth drain and fill though, the fluid coming out was already very close to the fluid going in, so I felt this was enough given I was very unlikely to be 'flushing' the system, but much more likely to significantly diluting the old fluid with the new through this 'mixing' approach. On my last drain and fill I actually ran the engine for 30 seconds and with my foot firmly on the brake pedal, engaged the gears, flicking from 1 though 6 and back again ... don't know if this made any difference though.

One other advantage of this approach was that the transmission fluid stayed cool, which was quite important to me given your approach and experience when replacing exactly the same amount of fluid with what has been drained, noting that you had completed this on two separate occasions when the fluid was cold, and then validated it with the complex fluid check process.

Thanks again for your very useful how to guide ... not only does it save an appreciable amount of money but you also end up doing a much better job than the dealer provides with the simple drain and refill.

Matthew

alchemist

iTrader: (1)

Thank you Matthew for your comments and additional recommendations. Surprisingly, the funnel method is the exact method we used for my dad's Tundra. There seemed to be more room to run the tube down from the engine. Also I agree with you as well as others like Burny, doing several drain/fills at once is best if you have an extra set of hands (which I rarely do). Glad everything worked out for you

lexuseng

I did a drain and fill on my 2007 GS350 AWD. My first drain was about 3.5 quarts (I measured carefully). After a few drain and fills, my final fill was 4 quarts. Drove it for a few weeks and decided to check the overfill. I skipped this at first because I had my car on ramps and figured the most accurate way was to wait until I could do this with the car level. Finally I had a chance and then used a IR thermometer to measure the temp of the transmission pan. When I opened the overfill plug (5mm Allen wrench) I was expecting about .5 a quart. Way more came out until I was uncomfortable enough that I plugged the overfill mid-stream. I measured 1.5 quarts had come out the overflow (it was still coming out strong). So I estimating there's only 2.5 quarts in this AWD transmission now (positively put 4 quarts in, 1.5 quarts out of overfill). So I can only conclude:
1. The original transmission fluid of 3.5 quarts was overfilled by at least a quart to begin with (bought this used so don't know if this amount came from the factory). Can anyone confirm what the fill should really be for AWD?
2. something wrong with my overflow tube

Didn't really want to let it drain until it stopped figuring if there was something wrong with my overflow tube, it would all drain out and then couldn't drive to work. I might buy some more fluid and do this just to see but maybe someone knows the answer and save me the trouble.

RusFredov

Changed my fluid twice today (I have 06 IS350). Decided to use Volvoline MaxLive ATF which says it's compatible with WS, also after reading couple posts and bunch of people saying how much it's better/cheaper than Toyota's WS. Decided to drop the pan and found it was worth it since the new filter with gasket was only $23 in O'reillys (Wix). A lot of crap was there, so I would advice to take extra 1 hour or so and do it; There is couple magnets inside the pan that collect gunk and you wont clean all that unless you drop a pan.
The tranny is sure feels better after 140k; don't think anyone did any tranny service, and pan gasket was hard as plastic and was wet in oil, leaking slightly.

BTW, I really must either have not enough patience or I didn't do the temperature procedure right, but my D-drive indicator never flashed, nor did it light up green. So after running the car for about 5 mins, I just went and did the fluid check. I might try again after driving couple thousands. I did jump 4&13 pins, and did all as it said, but either my car takes forever to warm up the fluid, or something went wrong, because all I saw was the P-park indicator lighting up all that time after removing the jumper. Please someone spare some light on how long it usually should take ...: Like the warm up part, and is D supposed to be blinking, or how I know for sure that my procedure is successful and the car is officially in tranny temperature mode...??

moonlit

Just did the first drain and fill to my 2008 Is350, it had EXACTLY 100,000 miles on it... Idk, but never been completely under a car before, and even with the ramps and a car jack JUST in case, I still felt I was going to die XD... Anyway drained out 2.5 quarts on the dot, filled 2.5-6 in.... IMMEDIATELY felt the gears smooth out when I took it for a test drive. I will do it again in a few weeks, maybe after 1000 miles.

Lukas99GS

Anyone done this on their 460? Wondering if it's the same procedure as it has the 8 speed vs the 6 on the 350

primavera

How to measure transmission fluid level between 104 to 113°F or (40 to 45°C) using handy ScanGauge II

You Tube

Rocknrose

My Lexus GS 350 has 198,900 miles and I've never did the detailed fluid change (4 & 13 pin, temperature readings, shifting gears). I may pay for it later but after 3 or 4 changes it stills shifts fast and strong.. The fluid has that nice light red look. 2.8 quarts drain out and 2.8 go back in.

Fausty

in theory I would think it's the same idea if your only draining and putting back in the same amount . I was planning on giving it a try with a friend of mine but the Toyota dealer was only charging 150 bucks and 100 to change out the differential fluid so I just took the easy way out lol. Lexus of Pembroke Pines tried quoting me close to 500 for the drain and fill lol. I swear they just think all of their customers don't have a clue what things are worth. I called them once for a quote on a battery and they were asking close to 300 bucks. Jm Lexus was asking for 150 for the same thing.

Lukas99GS

I caved as well and had Lexus do it, although I asked for a drain and fill the tech did a full flush without asking which kinda bothered me with the high mileage but seems to be shifting fine still.