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GS - 3rd Gen (2006-2011) Discussion about the 2006+ model GS300, GS350, GS430, GS450H and GS460

Changing Transmission Fluid ***DIY w/ pics***

 
Old 01-14-19, 03:20 PM
  #211  
thallium
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Originally Posted by Autrey View Post
I had the fluid in my 2006 GS300 changed. The pan was not dropped. After the change the mechanic thought the transmission was failing because of the way the car drove.
I tried to check the fluid level and cold at least half a quart ran out. I replaced the plug, jumped the 4 and 13 pin in the OBD connector and started the car.
The flashing lights did not go out when I pulled the jumper. The display read VSC CHECK. 1 warmed up the tranny. I let the car run at least half an hour. The flashing lights never did go off and nothing runs out of the check level tube. I don't understand why fluid came out when cold and not when hot. Any ideas would be appreciated.
Was the car running when you pulled the plug? If not, that is why fluid came out. Car must be running. If car was running, the fluid level was too high.

As for the lights, I believe they stay on until you pull the jumper. Also, are you sure you put it in trans temp mode? Not sure on the 2006 GS300 but on a 2007 Camry and 2013 GS350 you must move the shift lever from D to N at least once very 1.5 seconds for at least 6 seconds after you have jumped the OBD2 pins. If you've done the shifting properly D will light a moment and then go out. When the low end temp has been reached the D will light again and then flash when the max temp has been passed. Did you do that?
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Old 01-14-19, 04:09 PM
  #212  
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Originally Posted by Autrey View Post
I had the fluid in my 2006 GS300 changed. The pan was not dropped. After the change the mechanic thought the transmission was failing because of the way the car drove.
I tried to check the fluid level and cold at least half a quart ran out. I replaced the plug, jumped the 4 and 13 pin in the OBD connector and started the car.
The flashing lights did not go out when I pulled the jumper. The display read VSC CHECK. 1 warmed up the tranny. I let the car run at least half an hour. The flashing lights never did go off and nothing runs out of the check level tube. I don't understand why fluid came out when cold and not when hot. Any ideas would be appreciated.
There are cooling circuits that take up some of the fluid when it gets hotter. No reason in the world to check it cold. Even old cars with a dipstick had to check hot running in park.
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Old 01-14-19, 05:06 PM
  #213  
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you are right, I did not do this properly..Thanks for the input...

Last edited by Autrey; 01-14-19 at 05:30 PM.
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Old 02-18-19, 06:28 PM
  #214  
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Post #70,
Exactly how I do it. I know all fluid does not get changed but I would NOT want to change all of it anyways. Changing 3 qt. at a time is much better than not changing at all. Use ONLY Toyota WS fluid, change it when vehicle is COLD and put exactly SAME amount of fluid as you took out. Do it every 50k miles and you should be good for life. No need to check temps and such.

Last edited by pete2006; 02-18-19 at 06:44 PM.
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Old 02-22-19, 08:02 PM
  #215  
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had a question about operating temps. i am doing the same on a 2009 GX 470 would it be the same temp 106 to 115 i have a scan tool that will read it.
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Old 02-22-19, 11:53 PM
  #216  
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Originally Posted by av8trmech View Post
had a question about operating temps. i am doing the same on a 2009 GX 470 would it be the same temp 106 to 115 i have a scan tool that will read it.
This is a 3Gen GS forum. There is a separate GX forum. You'll get better information on your vehicle over there.

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Old 04-14-19, 01:09 AM
  #217  
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does the temp needs to be between 104f and 113f?
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Old 04-14-19, 05:20 AM
  #218  
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Enshiu, I drained and filled fluid this way on my two lexuses and one toyota without any issues. On my ES 2 qt and GX 3.8 qt. I parked cars overnight, drained and filled them next morning. Temps of new and used fluid were same ambient temp, just make sure not to spill any of the fluids, otherwise you'll have to do the temp method. I also added 5% extra of new fluid. Some might argue but I've done it this way and it works. Now, saying all that, yes, drain/refill with temp readings and watching overflow tube would be more accurate.
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Old 06-12-19, 08:20 AM
  #219  
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Originally Posted by alchemist View Post
******Updated 12/30/18 - Due to popular demand, I added the below instructions w/ pics as a PDF at the bottom of next post as an attachment*****


To change or not to change that is the question. As a highly debated topic on this forum, I felt it was necessary to share my experience.

Yes, I am aware the tranny is ‘sealed’.
Yes I am aware the claims of ‘lifetime’ fluid.
Yes I understand Lexus does not recommend changing the fluid nor does your favorite ASE certified Lexus technician.

Whatever. I am keeping my car until at least 250k miles so in my opinion this is absolutely necessary. My car just passed 100k miles.

First, let’s look at the evidence. After my first drain and fill of 2 Quarts of fluid, look at the difference between new and old fluid.



Now I am aware this may not tell the whole story. Just because the fluid is black, it does not mean it has lost its viscosity and lubricating ability and it still may feel super slick. So I sent a sample to Blackstone labs for analysis. Here is the result:

Their written analysis from Blackstone and breakdown below:

“We see lifetime oils a lot and the name can be very misleading. Since this fluid was the original fill, these metals are from the original break-in. Most of the metal is from new parts wearing in when the transmission was new and some of it is just normal accumulation over the last 100,000 miles. Now that this oil was changed, your next report should show some nice improvements as this stuff washes out. Your samples should look more like universal averages, which show typical wear after ~32K miles on the oil. No contamination was found. You are however, starting to lose viscosity at varying temperatures. Therefore, you changed at the appropriate time. Check back in 20,000 miles without draining."



It needed to be changed probably 20k miles ago.

Below I describe the procedure I found most efficient. I performed a series of drain and fills and did not do a flush as I was concerned of dislodging something that would affect the solenoids down the road. If I had fewer miles I may have just taken it in to a shop that had the BG PF5 machine and let them do their thing.

Disclaimer: Attempt at your own risk. This is the method that I found most useful and efficient – yours may differ and may not be the exact as described herein. As with any do-it-yourself project, unfamiliarity with the tools and process can be dangerous. This project should be construed as theoretical advice. I will not be held responsible for any injury due to the misuse or misunderstanding of this DIY project.

Here is an overview of what I did.
1. Drain 2-2.5 quarts/fill 2-2.5 quarts
2. (5000 miles later) Drain 2-2.5 quarts/fill 2-2.5 quarts
3. (5000 miles later) Drain 2-2.5 quarts/fill 2-2.5 quarts. Use fluid check procedure. Make sure ATF temp is below 46°C (115°F) and check fluid by opening overflow tube. Add fluid as necessary.
4. Repeat Steps 1-3. ***Note*** You do not need to wait 5000 miles between drain/fills. The fluid will be circulated with one drive down the block. I waited 5k miles because I changed my fluid when I did my engine oil change.

KEY POINT – as long as you replace exactly what you drained, you will have no issues. If you are off ½ quart you should not have a problem. I decided to check the fluid level at step 3 so if I was off more than I thought, I could adjust it accordingly, but I felt it wasn’t necessary to do this every time. After step 3, my fluid was perfect so steps 1-2 obviously worked (ie. Replacing the exact fluid that came out).

Ok, here we go…

Stuff needed:
- 12 quarts ATF World Standard (WS) fluid
- Fluid transfer pump or large syringe
- Crescent wrench or 20mm wrench
- 10mm wrench
- 14mm wrench



First, the steps for simple drain/fill:

I used rhino ramps. For the basic drain/fill, leveling the vehicle is not necessary. I actually think more fluid will drain out with the car in this position as the drain plug is to the rear of the tranny…



Remove plastic panel covering tranny. Three 10mm bolts and two plastic 10mm fasteners



Here you will notice the drain plug. 14mm bolt.



Drain fluid. It was soooo black.






***Note*** You have a couple options here. You can drain into a pan then measure the fluid in an empty container OR drain directly into empty container.








EXACTLY 2.5 quarts came out when I drained mine. Yours may differ.




Replace drain plug. Now you will access the fill hole on the driver’s side of the tranny. It is behind a cover, which is held by two 10mm bolts.










The fill plug is rather large. I used a crescent wrench to remove it. You can also use 20mm wrench. You can see it is stamped WS







Now add the EXACT amount of fluid that came out when you drained the pan. Use a fluid transfer pump or syringe.



Replace everything and you are done for the simple drain/fill step.

---→5000 miles later I did another drain/fill

next post...using check procedure...


So did you have the front of the car raised?
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Old 06-12-19, 09:30 AM
  #220  
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I have a 2006 GS300. It had 105K when I bought it. It almost immediately began showing transmission problems. I t was showing codes indicating the 3rd gear solenoid was sticking and various other problems. I had transmission fluid changed changed. The mechanic said " it looked like and had the consistency of molasses". The fluid change did not help. When the transmission was rebuilt the clutch discs were totally trashed with lots of metal shards stuck to the magnets in the pan.

I can't help but believe changing the fluid earlier on might have prevented the failure.
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Old 06-12-19, 04:16 PM
  #221  
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Originally Posted by Autrey View Post
I have a 2006 GS300. It had 105K when I bought it. It almost immediately began showing transmission problems. I t was showing codes indicating the 3rd gear solenoid was sticking and various other problems. I had transmission fluid changed changed. The mechanic said " it looked like and had the consistency of molasses". The fluid change did not help. When the transmission was rebuilt the clutch discs were totally trashed with lots of metal shards stuck to the magnets in the pan.

I can't help but believe changing the fluid earlier on might have prevented the failure.
Oh wow.. i wonder If the transmission design is the same from 06 till 2010... ive taken mine to Lexus, and they can find any issues. But to me it shifts too hard for this kind of car..
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Old 06-12-19, 11:23 PM
  #222  
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Originally Posted by Autrey View Post
I have a 2006 GS300. It had 105K when I bought it. It almost immediately began showing transmission problems. I t was showing codes indicating the 3rd gear solenoid was sticking and various other problems. I had transmission fluid changed changed. The mechanic said " it looked like and had the consistency of molasses". The fluid change did not help. When the transmission was rebuilt the clutch discs were totally trashed with lots of metal shards stuck to the magnets in the pan.

I can't help but believe changing the fluid earlier on might have prevented the failure.
2006's have issues with the transmission control module that located inside your ECU. Many guys will remove their ecu, and ship them to get repaired at sia electronics. This is the main common issue that fails on only the 2006's. There have been members who have had to replace there solenoids aswell, but I would send the ecu for testing and repair and if that doesnt cure it, then do replace the solenoids.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Lexus-GS300...gAAOSw~y9ZJFbe
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Old 06-23-19, 12:28 PM
  #223  
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I did the drain refill on my wife’s 07 with 120K on it. Not realizing that Aisin recommends doing this at 60K.
Needless to say the fluid was very black. Although there were no indications of hard shifts or erratic shifting. After the drain refill I definitely noticed a much smoother shifting.
I drained about 2.5 quarts and refilled with 3 quarts. I adjusted the level as per the procedure but I used the tech stream software for the transmission temperature range 106-115 F.
And exactly the extra amount I put in was drained from the level check, which tells me it had the correct level prior to the service.
I did not drive the car but shifted through the gears while on jackstands to circulate the fluid through the transmission.
After draining again the oil was still black (dark brown actually) so I exchanged about 6 quarts and I’m happy with the results.
I will do another 6 quarts at the next oil change in about 4K.
I will update this at that time as to what the fluid looks like and how the transmission is performing.
Sorry I didn’t take pics of the fluid. I will next time.
Thanks for the right up and to those who added more info. It certainly made this a very easy service.
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