cheap fix would to rebuild it. But if you do not have any mechanical skills, then I suggest just buying a new actuator. As the original poster pointed out, the actuator casing (that holds the motor) is very brittle and can break as a whole if you're not careful.

 

Does anyone know if every door is a different part#? Or are the two drivers sides the same and the two passenger sides the same etc.

 

I think they're difference due to the shape of the doors alone. I think you had to specify which door you want to replace.

 

is that the post that talks about getting the RC car motors from ebay?

 

all the motors are the same. the actual casing is different due to the different door shapes/sides

 

I just came here to find a way I can repair the Drivers window as it will not go up or down, there is power to the button but the window has been showing signs of failure and today it finally gave up so I needed to find a way to acess the drivers door panel.
This is my first post here and I have to mention that the OP did a fine job on his technique as well as all the info and pics given here on this forum.
Thank you. I know this will be benificial to all on this and related issues.

My issue is this; when pressing the window (auto) down, it will go down about 3/4 then stop. When the "down" is presed again, nothing. However, if I press "up", the window goes DOWN and completes the down cycle. I have to wait a few seconds before the "up" feature will function.
THis has been an ongoing issue until it just finally crapped out today. Don't know if there has been others out there with Gen 2's with this same window issue or not, I haven't searched this forum to find out.
I just want to thank the OP for such a detailed notation on his actuators that will (I'm sure) assist me in trying to fix my window problem.

 

funny thing is after i leave the car for some time, when i come back all doors unlock just fine. If i lock it right away and then unlock it wont work for either one. Makes me think like theres hope, maybe that electrical contact cleaner technique but i doubt it will work as this is a common problem.

 

Funny thing is, my door lock brushes were not really gone. They had about 10-20% life left. The problem was that the metal tab that pushes the brushes against the armature had little to no tension. That explains why it works sometimes, and not other times. Eventually the brushes wore down to the point where the metal tabs couldn't touch the armature anymore.

You can take a part the motor and bend the tabs a bit more, but since you're there already, you might as well replace the brushes.

As an update, I probably locked and unlocked my doors 100x since I fixed it, and it's still working like new!

 

Big thanks to bmpiazzola for providing diy for the actuator replacement. What a PITA! I wouldn't of tackled it without those pics. I was surprised with how much stuff had to be taken off just to get tho the part. Only snag I had was not aligning the window into the sleeves...had to take the speaker off again to re-adjust. Took about 4 hours...ouch. I may perform surgery on the old part to see what failed, bad brushes or ??

 

omg that looked sooo hard... i rather just use my hand... though i hated my stupid door not working, but i donlt wanna take everything off just for that..

 

those are the little motors that go into those little japanese race cars

 

As an update, I probably locked and unlocked my doors 100x since I fixed it, and it's still working like new![/QUOTE]

gsteg where did you buy your motor?

 

I am having the same issue with the rear doors. Do the rear actuators look like the front? Has anyone taken one out that is bad that they would sell to me?

I would hate to have to take the door panel off multiple times.

BP

 

I think that this is THE motor that we are in need of.

This motor I do not think will require soldering

http://cgi.ebay.com/5-NEW-Mabuchi-Mi...QQcmdZViewItem

 

well its that time, my pass side just failed. bmpiazzola thanks for the new link. I just ordered five of these. Any advice on how to take apart that housing without cracking it. Should I heat-gun it a little bit to soften it up?