Door Lock Acutuators DIY ???
12-10-07, 08:27 AM
#121
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
Yeah I do not know. I wonder if a super glue removal agent would work? I am not sure what they glue the housing together with.
I bought 10 of the motors last night as my rears are not turning on the courtesy lights and if I am going in there I might as well replace the motor.
By the way. You are going to have to get the flat coupling of the motors that are on the Ebay link. I was thinking about dremeling it off with a small side grinder.
Let us know how your project proceeds.
BP
I bought 10 of the motors last night as my rears are not turning on the courtesy lights and if I am going in there I might as well replace the motor.
By the way. You are going to have to get the flat coupling of the motors that are on the Ebay link. I was thinking about dremeling it off with a small side grinder.
Let us know how your project proceeds.
BP
12-10-07, 08:38 AM
#122
Yea i noticed that as well. I was thinking the same thing. I think I will just grind it off. I don't want to heat it up or anything, so I will try without it. I also have motorcycle tools, and I have a strong feeling that my chain link puller and press might press these couplings apart like butter, without damaging anything.
What did you use to glue the part back together.
What did you use to glue the part back together.
12-10-07, 10:18 AM
#124
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
Yea i noticed that as well. I was thinking the same thing. I think I will just grind it off. I don't want to heat it up or anything, so I will try without it. I also have motorcycle tools, and I have a strong feeling that my chain link puller and press might press these couplings apart like butter, without damaging anything.
What did you use to glue the part back together.
What did you use to glue the part back together.
BP
12-10-07, 10:38 AM
#125
It is not the size of the chain, it is the tool, it is made to break the chain by pushing out the link pin. The tool has punch pins that I am sure are small enough to push on that rod. I am sure that if I grab that gear with a vice, and hammer on rod with the the push pin, I can get that stupid little gear off no problem.
12-12-07, 08:34 AM
#127
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
Let me know how your chain do a mahicky works. I am still thinking that the brass coupling needs to be grounded off. I would love to see pics of how you get the coupling off.
Thanks,
BP
Thanks,
BP
12-12-07, 08:47 AM
#128
Ok, update. I just took off all 5 of those stupid little coupling things off the motor. This is very easy.
All you need to do, is grab that coupler with pliers, the part that you cut wire with. Then put the nose of the pliers' tip on a table, hold the handle. You may need a budy or something. Take a punch, if you don't have a punch I have also just done it with a philips screwdriver. Put the screwdriver punch on the metal rod, and hit it with a hammer. The thing will slide out like butter. You don't need to bother with the dremmel, and the motor internals will not get damaged.
All you need to do, is grab that coupler with pliers, the part that you cut wire with. Then put the nose of the pliers' tip on a table, hold the handle. You may need a budy or something. Take a punch, if you don't have a punch I have also just done it with a philips screwdriver. Put the screwdriver punch on the metal rod, and hit it with a hammer. The thing will slide out like butter. You don't need to bother with the dremmel, and the motor internals will not get damaged.
12-12-07, 11:59 AM
#129
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
kodos.. Good description. Sounds easy enough. Thanks.
Have you gotten the factory coupling off yet? See pic! Yeah oh well. I tried. It would not let me upload it.
I had to heat up the factory coupling to get it off. let me know if you get a better idea on how to get it off.
BP
Have you gotten the factory coupling off yet? See pic! Yeah oh well. I tried. It would not let me upload it.
I had to heat up the factory coupling to get it off. let me know if you get a better idea on how to get it off.
BP
Last edited by TRD911; 12-12-07 at 03:16 PM.
can't say I would attempt this myself but if I did this would save lots of time. Thanks!!!
12-13-07, 07:16 AM
#132
Ok it's done. Everything works 100%. Motor was a 100% direct drop in. bmpiazzola, you are the man. Thanks for the motor linky, and everything else.
I have a few notes for everyone.
You definitely do not need to take out the window, just leave it all the way up, and you will be fine.
The Lock Mechanism is held in by 4 T-30 screws, 3 by the latch, and 1 under the panel. But that itself will not late you take it out. This will just loosen it. You also need to unclip it from the outer door handle, I actually did this with pics from the inside. But you should still take out the 3 10mm bolts from the exterior handle, it is just so much easier to reassemble when it is loose. Don’t even think about not taking it out, it is just too easy, and makes life 100% simpler.
You will need to take out the 10mm bolt that is under the lock mechanism, which holds the window track. Once that is done, you can move the track out of the way, (it will still be attached up top). Follow the write-up basically, don't take the window out, and you will be golden.
Taking apart the module was not hard either, I was just nervous about not braking that plastic casing. You do not need to take the white arms of either, they are attached to the halves separately. Took a dremmel, cut a groove where I could, cracked it open, motor is right there. I cannot believe how simple the whole thing is, and Lexus wants so much money just because the motor gets fried, wow. Take out the motor, take off that flat tab, put onto new motor reassemble. Oh, I did a slight mistake here. I decided to test the thing without closing the plastic casing up. DO NOT DO THIS. That wheel that was in there flew across the street. It is held on a tension spring, basically it always brings the wheel back to center. If it does happen to you, put the spring back in there, so that the two hooks grab around the semicircular wall inside the case, not the wheel, and then put the wheel back in by spinning it clockwise and pushing down. You will deff know when it went back in. Do that part slowly.
I wasn’t too concerned about gluing the case back together to perfection. I used hot glue, and sealed the open ends. The screws that go through it into the metal bracket will hold that cover in place well enough on their own, and with hot glue, I am sure it will not go anywhere.
Ok, to the fan stuff. Taking that black flat tip off the stock motor is a biznitch. You cannot go crazy on it, since it looks to be made from some type of graphite, graphite metal mix. I think it will crack if you wail on it. I did not heat it up at all. First I suggest you get yourself a nail that will fit into the hole where the tip is connected. Cut off the tip of the nail, dremmel works best as it will not deform the tip. Second, grab the motor with a vice, monkey wrench, or pliers if you think you can hold it. Then take that nail, and hammer the motor rod in from the back, (not the tip end), make sure the other side is in the air, or you will hammer the flat tip in more. This will move the motor rod out so that you have more of the rod on the other side, you need this, and it is not hard to do. Now do like what I did above with the ebay motors. Put the motor rod in pliers, so that the rod is loose enough to spin, but hangs due to the tip being bigger and not falling out of the pliers. Take that magic nail that you cut off, and put it into that black tip, and wail away. It took 2 decent hits to make the motor fly away from the tip. Be careful, the tip is now loose, and can fly away too.
Bmpiazzola; just for you. I did this with the chain breaker tool, and it work. I can put the entire motor into that tool and press the rod through the motor completely. Only problem is that I had to go fish the black tip out from inside the motor. Not fun when it’s a mangled mess. So if you have a chain breaking tool like this, I suggest taking the motor apart before using this.
This is a cheap version, but it will work. I think you can pick them up for like $15 if you want.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Motor...spagenameZWDVW
You know what to do from there.
I would have taken pictures for you guys, but my cam battery died, and it was too late to sit around and wait for that thing to charge, I couldn’t resist fixing my car. If I do this to any of my other doors, or help some forum buddies out, I will take pics. This took me 2 hours. 1 hour was because that damn mistake from above. That mechanism wheel flew away, and the spring as well. Took a long time to find it, and then figure out how it works. The rest of the time, I was smoking, working on this, cleaning up the wiring in the door, and adding some more foam insulation strips to the door. I get this air coming through the buttons once in a while. Figure I should do that while the panel was off.
Hope this helps someone.
I have a few notes for everyone.
You definitely do not need to take out the window, just leave it all the way up, and you will be fine.
The Lock Mechanism is held in by 4 T-30 screws, 3 by the latch, and 1 under the panel. But that itself will not late you take it out. This will just loosen it. You also need to unclip it from the outer door handle, I actually did this with pics from the inside. But you should still take out the 3 10mm bolts from the exterior handle, it is just so much easier to reassemble when it is loose. Don’t even think about not taking it out, it is just too easy, and makes life 100% simpler.
You will need to take out the 10mm bolt that is under the lock mechanism, which holds the window track. Once that is done, you can move the track out of the way, (it will still be attached up top). Follow the write-up basically, don't take the window out, and you will be golden.
Taking apart the module was not hard either, I was just nervous about not braking that plastic casing. You do not need to take the white arms of either, they are attached to the halves separately. Took a dremmel, cut a groove where I could, cracked it open, motor is right there. I cannot believe how simple the whole thing is, and Lexus wants so much money just because the motor gets fried, wow. Take out the motor, take off that flat tab, put onto new motor reassemble. Oh, I did a slight mistake here. I decided to test the thing without closing the plastic casing up. DO NOT DO THIS. That wheel that was in there flew across the street. It is held on a tension spring, basically it always brings the wheel back to center. If it does happen to you, put the spring back in there, so that the two hooks grab around the semicircular wall inside the case, not the wheel, and then put the wheel back in by spinning it clockwise and pushing down. You will deff know when it went back in. Do that part slowly.
I wasn’t too concerned about gluing the case back together to perfection. I used hot glue, and sealed the open ends. The screws that go through it into the metal bracket will hold that cover in place well enough on their own, and with hot glue, I am sure it will not go anywhere.
Ok, to the fan stuff. Taking that black flat tip off the stock motor is a biznitch. You cannot go crazy on it, since it looks to be made from some type of graphite, graphite metal mix. I think it will crack if you wail on it. I did not heat it up at all. First I suggest you get yourself a nail that will fit into the hole where the tip is connected. Cut off the tip of the nail, dremmel works best as it will not deform the tip. Second, grab the motor with a vice, monkey wrench, or pliers if you think you can hold it. Then take that nail, and hammer the motor rod in from the back, (not the tip end), make sure the other side is in the air, or you will hammer the flat tip in more. This will move the motor rod out so that you have more of the rod on the other side, you need this, and it is not hard to do. Now do like what I did above with the ebay motors. Put the motor rod in pliers, so that the rod is loose enough to spin, but hangs due to the tip being bigger and not falling out of the pliers. Take that magic nail that you cut off, and put it into that black tip, and wail away. It took 2 decent hits to make the motor fly away from the tip. Be careful, the tip is now loose, and can fly away too.
Bmpiazzola; just for you. I did this with the chain breaker tool, and it work. I can put the entire motor into that tool and press the rod through the motor completely. Only problem is that I had to go fish the black tip out from inside the motor. Not fun when it’s a mangled mess. So if you have a chain breaking tool like this, I suggest taking the motor apart before using this.
This is a cheap version, but it will work. I think you can pick them up for like $15 if you want.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Motor...spagenameZWDVW
You know what to do from there.
I would have taken pictures for you guys, but my cam battery died, and it was too late to sit around and wait for that thing to charge, I couldn’t resist fixing my car. If I do this to any of my other doors, or help some forum buddies out, I will take pics. This took me 2 hours. 1 hour was because that damn mistake from above. That mechanism wheel flew away, and the spring as well. Took a long time to find it, and then figure out how it works. The rest of the time, I was smoking, working on this, cleaning up the wiring in the door, and adding some more foam insulation strips to the door. I get this air coming through the buttons once in a while. Figure I should do that while the panel was off.
Hope this helps someone.
12-13-07, 10:37 AM
#133
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
Great write up. Very consice. I have a few pics of me getting the brass hub off that comes on the new motors. Just like you said. I just used a small drill bit and a punch to get it off.
I will probably be doing a writing up on my rear door. I really need to fix the light on or Door open switch cuase it is not working. I figure I need to replace the motors while I am in there.
I will upload some pics from home later.
I will probably be doing a writing up on my rear door. I really need to fix the light on or Door open switch cuase it is not working. I figure I need to replace the motors while I am in there.
I will upload some pics from home later.
Last edited by TRD911; 12-13-07 at 03:29 PM.
12-13-07, 11:48 AM
#134
did you notice that the door pull, exterior, has a **** on the mechanism that will engage the lights. I noticed it on the front mech when I took the motor module out. The interior arm on that module is the lock control, the exterior side is the light control. Make sure that arm is over the ****. If you miss that, the lights will not turn on.