Just finished everything... All works well... NO Problems... BTW I did NOT take out my window.... Too much work... You do NOT need to take out the window... just a little moving the actuator assembly around and it comes right out... ONLY thing is I would like to know all torque specs for the door bolts (torx, screw, nuts)... If anyone has these that would be great... so I can go back in a torque them to spec for P.O.M.

p.s. I did the entire job with the window all the way UP.

 

Almost forgot... Great job on the DIY bmpiazzola!!

 

You don't really need the torque specs, just tighten them, but not too hard, you don't want to break that plastic washer. As far as the window, yes we all confirmed it that it can stay in.

 

Hey there, i have a 1999 Lexus Rx 300 and 3 of my doors are not working properly, i know this is a GS forum, but do you think the same thing applies, as far as the motor in the actuator gone bad?

 

probably, take one out and snap a pic for us.

 

mod, make this a sticky. i think its worth being a sticky lol

 

Great thread! I wish I had found it earlier. I just tackled this on the passenger rear door of my wife's 99 GS. My SC has yet to have lock problems at 160k.

My motor problem was different though... The brushes were fine, but when I supplied 12v to the motor, it would spin quickly then after 5 seconds or so it would stop until I removed power. After a second or so, I could supply power and the motor would do the same thing again. One of the brush leads has a small silver and black square that power must go through to get to the brushes. I removed it and replaced the gap it left with a smashed solderless connector. The motor works perfectly now, but I wonder what the silver thing is I removed. Any insight? Next weekend I plan to do the passenger front door lock, but I think I'll buy the motors instead of ghetto fixing the existing one.

One other problem I had was splitting the case to get to the motor. Mine was so brittle it just cracked too easily. Las Vegas / southern AZ car - lots of dry heat. I used a Dremel and just ground away a rectangle to gain access to the motor, then ground a line to allow for movement of the worm gear to tilt the motor out. To keep the repaired motor back in the assembly, I again turned to my ghetto repair skills and wedged a Bud Light bottle cap between the metal latch frame and the motor so the screws that hold the plastic case to the metal latch frame provide enough pressure to keep the motor nice and snug.

Thanks again everybody!

 

So we've found a fix for the motors, but anyone know how to fix the sensors? My rear interior lights don't light up when I open the rear doors. Search tells me my sensors are out, but my locks still work so it must be a seperate problem.

 

The piece was inside the electric motor itself. All my lights and locks work (except the passenger front which I still need to fix)

I also cleaned out the inside of the motor with brake cleaner and compressed air - hope it won't waste the windings, but I ordered 5 motors off ebay today so who cares anyway...

Its hard to tell from the angle of your pic, but circled in red the part I removed:
The other side is spot welded where the external electrical connection meets the brush connection (circled in green) and the part I removed goes in that connection on the other side.

 

In your picture, the black arm with the two silver prongs, that is the light switch. On the other side, there is an arm, that must be in place in the mechanism to work properly. Once the door is opened, the arm in the mechanism tilts that black peice, and turns on the lights. Make sure the metal connections are clean, some part of it should be hot glued so as not to keep your lights on all the time.

 

Slick.. do you think that the arms have fallen off both my back doors? Neither one will turn on the door open lights and AND the car will autolock if I do not open one of the front doors. Not good if you have kiddies like me.

I am waiting for some time to work on the back doors. I will report back what I find.

BP

 

ishootstuf I took a couple more pics of the end cap on the motor. I think that big peice that you took out was an afterthought to make the contact press harder to the stab in the actuator. I cannot tell what it was doing other than making the motor have better connection.

I cleaned it up pretty good. I removed the peice and put a small screw driver in the place and the only thing I could see move was the contact part.

BP

 

BTW I love pictures cant you tell. And another,


BP

 

and another,

BP

 

Circled in green is the part I removed. The red circle indicates where it came from.