Door Lock Acutuators DIY ???
Hey guys in need of some help please. My door locks aren't responding to the key fob or the power lock button but you can hear the actuator kicking when you hit the button or the fob. They actually will kick once and then again in about two seconds but they won't lock or unlock. Should I replace the actuators or is there another issue? Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance
RJLexGS
RJLexGS
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
From: tx
Based on my limited experience, you probably have at least one that is bad, and I would guess the driver door.
A few more notes.
1. The info in this thread is great. If you have an issue or question, search this thread.
2. Did a '99 GS 300, all 4 doors, in under 3 hours. Second car is the easiest.
3. Left all windows up and did not remove front speakers, just the window track closest to the actuators.
4. Rear door trick is to find that "tab" that will allow you to remove the unit. Do NOT try and take the rear handles out as you do not need to.
5. Hardest part has been cracking open the old units without destroying plastic.
6. Be careful with the lock cables. The barrel shape can crack off.
A few more notes.
1. The info in this thread is great. If you have an issue or question, search this thread.
2. Did a '99 GS 300, all 4 doors, in under 3 hours. Second car is the easiest.
3. Left all windows up and did not remove front speakers, just the window track closest to the actuators.
4. Rear door trick is to find that "tab" that will allow you to remove the unit. Do NOT try and take the rear handles out as you do not need to.
5. Hardest part has been cracking open the old units without destroying plastic.
6. Be careful with the lock cables. The barrel shape can crack off.
Pole Position
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 207
Likes: 5
From: Texas
Based on my limited experience, you probably have at least one that is bad, and I would guess the driver door.
A few more notes.
1. The info in this thread is great. If you have an issue or question, search this thread.
2. Did a '99 GS 300, all 4 doors, in under 3 hours. Second car is the easiest.
3. Left all windows up and did not remove front speakers, just the window track closest to the actuators.
4. Rear door trick is to find that "tab" that will allow you to remove the unit. Do NOT try and take the rear handles out as you do not need to.
5. Hardest part has been cracking open the old units without destroying plastic.
6. Be careful with the lock cables. The barrel shape can crack off.
A few more notes.
1. The info in this thread is great. If you have an issue or question, search this thread.
2. Did a '99 GS 300, all 4 doors, in under 3 hours. Second car is the easiest.
3. Left all windows up and did not remove front speakers, just the window track closest to the actuators.
4. Rear door trick is to find that "tab" that will allow you to remove the unit. Do NOT try and take the rear handles out as you do not need to.
5. Hardest part has been cracking open the old units without destroying plastic.
6. Be careful with the lock cables. The barrel shape can crack off.
Advanced
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 690
Likes: 25
From: South Austin, Texas
I did ChrisWinnn's actuators this weekend. Took about 3.5hrs in the texas heat. Hardest part is getting the rear actuators out of the doors. Trick is to take a long screwdriver or use your hand/finger if you can fit it in the door to push down the lever that engages the door handles. You DO NOT NEED TO REMOVE WINDOWS OR REAR DOOR HANDLES.
Pole Position
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 207
Likes: 5
From: Texas
Oh, and one other note....DISCONNECT THE FREAKIN BATTERY!!!! If you dont the window will try to roll itself down when you stick the actuator back into the door (smaller rod gets pushed down and the computer thinks you have inserted the key and held to unlock). You could wait till you get it all mounted up before plugging it in but its a total pain in the *ss this way. The small plug is nearly impossible to get to once the actuator is in the door. Not to mention, the alarm/horn will go off when you plug it in anyways making your neighbors really happy with you 
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Joe Kucinski
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
From: MN
For an old post, this is still priceless... I had no idea what I was doing going into this and I was able to replace my actuator out of the front pass side in a couple hours... it also had a broken plastic piece that hooked to the actual door lock but thanks to members advice, a simple paperclip wrapped around it now leaves the door operating like new! Thank you all!!!
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
From: CA
Heat up the edges to melt the glue
The white plastic clam shell motor housing is glued together.
Use a hair dryer on HOT. Heat a long line along the long straight edge. That would melt the glue so you can pry open a spot easily with a knife blade.
Repeat heating a few other spots until open the shell.
That would preven breaking the plastic shell.
Use a hair dryer on HOT. Heat a long line along the long straight edge. That would melt the glue so you can pry open a spot easily with a knife blade.
Repeat heating a few other spots until open the shell.
That would preven breaking the plastic shell.
I just completed the rear door actuator motor replacement. Really kudo's for all that submitted as they learned. The rear door panel was really easy to remove, didn't break any of the snaps that I have done in the past. After removing the screws to remove the actuator, lift the door handle from the outside to ease the assembly out. The actual motor casing is a sealed unit and is easy to break. The 2 case halves are tongue and groove and bonded together. I used a utility knife between the case halves to cut through the tongue and groove. If you try to pry before you have cut through, you will only end up breaking the case. Give yourself 15 minutes to do the job, be careful not to cut yourself and you can get the case apart in 2 pieces. Makes it easier to glue back together. I thought of using a Dremel tool but after seeing how much grease is inside the unit, all the dust/debris from a Dremel tool would probably muck up the works. I did put a piece of foam tape on the side opposite the electrical contacts to give it more contact force (the original motor also had some foam tape on it). Oh yeah, the coupling is hard to get off but do it just like the picture. I bent a few nails (blunt them first). Took about 3 hours including a trip to the local hardware store for a Torx 30 bit so that plus the $1 motor saved me over $200!
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
From: CA
Since this Mabuchi motor is used in RC cars, I suspect you can buy the flat shaft adapter at hobby shops that sell RC cars and accessories.
While you are there, the shop would liek have tool to remove the old adapter from the shaft.
While you are there, the shop would liek have tool to remove the old adapter from the shaft.
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
From: CA
heat up the edges to melt the glue
The pry it out with a sharp knife or flat-head screw driver.
The easiest way to crack open the housing is by using a safety blade and a small hammer (like a model hammer). Line the blade up straight between the two halves of the housing and slightly tap until the blade goes in. Go all around the housing until you can separate the two halves. Any other way is too much of a pain to do.
So i'm confused AF
So i switched the actuator passenger front and pass rear. As I hooked up the front unit (that the actuator is in) the car wont lock by my keyfob. But if I was to unplug the unit (the actuator is in) the keyfob works. I checked the fuses etc. When I plug in the unit (the actuator is in) i can feel it lock, but other than that nothing else happens.
I'm super confused because it never happened to me.
So i switched the actuator passenger front and pass rear. As I hooked up the front unit (that the actuator is in) the car wont lock by my keyfob. But if I was to unplug the unit (the actuator is in) the keyfob works. I checked the fuses etc. When I plug in the unit (the actuator is in) i can feel it lock, but other than that nothing else happens.
I'm super confused because it never happened to me.
Last edited by abounly; Sep 27, 2013 at 05:20 PM.
Advanced
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 503
Likes: 3
From: Connecticut
So i'm confused AF
So i switched the actuator passenger front and pass rear. As I hooked up the front unit (that the actuator is in) the car wont lock by my keyfob. But if I was to unplug the unit (the actuator is in) the keyfob works. I checked the fuses etc. When I plug in the unit (the actuator is in) i can feel it lock, but other than that nothing else happens.
I'm super confused because it never happened to me.
So i switched the actuator passenger front and pass rear. As I hooked up the front unit (that the actuator is in) the car wont lock by my keyfob. But if I was to unplug the unit (the actuator is in) the keyfob works. I checked the fuses etc. When I plug in the unit (the actuator is in) i can feel it lock, but other than that nothing else happens.
I'm super confused because it never happened to me.