Door Lock Acutuators DIY ???
Anywhoo
I thought maybe everything needed to be put back together and it'll work (sometimes it just works that way). And so far it works perfectly fine. I'll report back if doesnt work.
Thanks for the quick response.
I read your thread earlier today on how to take out the rear actuator. Super easy
Heres the quickest way to remove the actuators for front and rear
Front - Remove 4 t30 bolts, 2 hooks you unhook via door handle and some plastic piece. Remove 10mm window sill and the actuator should slide out.
Rear
Remove 4 T30 bolts. Pull on the WHITE cable string and maneuver the actuator out at the same time.
Thats really it.
Front - Remove 4 t30 bolts, 2 hooks you unhook via door handle and some plastic piece. Remove 10mm window sill and the actuator should slide out.
Rear
Remove 4 T30 bolts. Pull on the WHITE cable string and maneuver the actuator out at the same time.
Thats really it.
this DIY helped a bunch i paid like 10 bucks for all 4 actuators and while i pulled the door panels i put my diamond stitched inserts in. 
now that my locks are working i notice when i put my key in the driver door and turn to unlock it does not auto unlock all the doors sometimes i have to turn the key several times so i want to get back in there and look at the latch assy again. the actuator works fine cause i can push the lock unlock button as many times as i want and it works fine
Great Diy here is a look at the diamond door panels i put in while i did the DIY
now that my locks are working i notice when i put my key in the driver door and turn to unlock it does not auto unlock all the doors sometimes i have to turn the key several times so i want to get back in there and look at the latch assy again. the actuator works fine cause i can push the lock unlock button as many times as i want and it works fine
Great Diy here is a look at the diamond door panels i put in while i did the DIY
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Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 503
Likes: 3
From: Connecticut
this DIY helped a bunch i paid like 10 bucks for all 4 actuators and while i pulled the door panels i put my diamond stitched inserts in.
now that my locks are working i notice when i put my key in the driver door and turn to unlock it does not auto unlock all the doors sometimes i have to turn the key several times so i want to get back in there and look at the latch assy again. the actuator works fine cause i can push the lock unlock button as many times as i want and it works fine
Great Diy here is a look at the diamond door panels i put in while i did the DIY
now that my locks are working i notice when i put my key in the driver door and turn to unlock it does not auto unlock all the doors sometimes i have to turn the key several times so i want to get back in there and look at the latch assy again. the actuator works fine cause i can push the lock unlock button as many times as i want and it works fine
Great Diy here is a look at the diamond door panels i put in while i did the DIY
if i link the ebay add it will expire so go to ebaymotors.com the sellers name is ZINKY86 View his ebay store and they are labeled
4 pc MABUCHI CAR DOOR LOCK MOTORS - DIY ACTUATOR REPAIR Lexus Toyota Ford Mazda
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
From: NM
Thank you TRD911 for taking the time to do this with all the pics and information, this is a great DIY and helped me with my actuator problem as well. Mine were only the two fronts, but I will use the extra two motors later for the rears. I had an issue with the rear sliding portion you can see from the inside of the door, the material was peeling up and jamming it from turning freely. So I just glued it back together and lubed it and it worked like a charm!
Sorry, I know this is off topic, but I don't like having my doors unlock when I put the car into drive. I know the C-Best settings are usually done by the dealership, are there any DIY stuff for any of these settings or do ALL of them have to be done by a Lexus specific scanner? Any input would be appreciated!
Again not trying to steal thread, PM if better.
-S
Sorry, I know this is off topic, but I don't like having my doors unlock when I put the car into drive. I know the C-Best settings are usually done by the dealership, are there any DIY stuff for any of these settings or do ALL of them have to be done by a Lexus specific scanner? Any input would be appreciated!
Again not trying to steal thread, PM if better.
-S
I did this on my moms 04 LX470. When resealing the clamshell that holds the motor, I suggest putting both epoxy to seal it and then a ziptie across where the motor is housed to further secured it. Kind of annoying to have to file the motor shaft down since its a flat edged shaft instead of the round one. Was a bit tedious to file and get the fitment on the worm gear. It didnt have a coupler like some acutators do. Saved $600+ by doing it myself
this seller sells the motor with several shaft options. Is there away to even know what shaft type you have without opening it up. It doesnt seem very standardized. Ive seen some of the LX people have the collared shaft but when I opened ours it was a flat shaft. Wouldve been nice if I found this auction earlier but I didnt know what motor I had. For a worm gear I would think it would either be a flat shaft or collared shaft or else it would just spin inside the gear
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mabuchi-Nichibo-Door-Lock-Repair-Motors-Flat-Shaft-Brass-Collar-FC-280PT-22125-/111182112752?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&var=410220465062&hash=item19e2f867f0
this seller sells the motor with several shaft options. Is there away to even know what shaft type you have without opening it up. It doesnt seem very standardized. Ive seen some of the LX people have the collared shaft but when I opened ours it was a flat shaft. Wouldve been nice if I found this auction earlier but I didnt know what motor I had. For a worm gear I would think it would either be a flat shaft or collared shaft or else it would just spin inside the gear
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mabuchi-Nichibo-Door-Lock-Repair-Motors-Flat-Shaft-Brass-Collar-FC-280PT-22125-/111182112752?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&var=410220465062&hash=item19e2f867f0
Last edited by 4TehNguyen; Oct 11, 2013 at 07:44 PM.
Thank you TRD911 for taking the time to do this with all the pics and information, this is a great DIY and helped me with my actuator problem as well. Mine were only the two fronts, but I will use the extra two motors later for the rears. I had an issue with the rear sliding portion you can see from the inside of the door, the material was peeling up and jamming it from turning freely. So I just glued it back together and lubed it and it worked like a charm!
Sorry, I know this is off topic, but I don't like having my doors unlock when I put the car into drive. I know the C-Best settings are usually done by the dealership, are there any DIY stuff for any of these settings or do ALL of them have to be done by a Lexus specific scanner? Any input would be appreciated!
Again not trying to steal thread, PM if better.
-S
Sorry, I know this is off topic, but I don't like having my doors unlock when I put the car into drive. I know the C-Best settings are usually done by the dealership, are there any DIY stuff for any of these settings or do ALL of them have to be done by a Lexus specific scanner? Any input would be appreciated!
Again not trying to steal thread, PM if better.
-S
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
From: Louisiana
Actuator follow up question?
Where did you purchase the replacement motor for the actuator?
After years of feeding of the forum, here's my first contribution.
As we all know, it's not the door lock actuator assembly that needs to be replaced, just the little motor inside of it. A set of four actuators from a dealer are +$200 each.
The set of four motors cost me just $25. And it's sooo easy to dyi! Save your money.
(Afterwards you'll feel like your'e ready to maybe replace a timing belt. You won't be; but you'll feel like it
Replacing door lock actuator motors:
Step 1: (Remove the actuator assembly - See prior posts)
Step 2: Follow my pics.
Step 3: As causally as possible, work "oh, I'm just swapping out my door lock actuators" into every conversations.
Took me about three hours to do all four locks. That's between goofing around, taking breaks and chasing my 2 year old out of my tool box. Once you get the first one done, the rest are a breeze.
(98 GS400 225K)
As we all know, it's not the door lock actuator assembly that needs to be replaced, just the little motor inside of it. A set of four actuators from a dealer are +$200 each.
The set of four motors cost me just $25. And it's sooo easy to dyi! Save your money.
(Afterwards you'll feel like your'e ready to maybe replace a timing belt. You won't be; but you'll feel like it
Replacing door lock actuator motors:
Step 1: (Remove the actuator assembly - See prior posts)
Step 2: Follow my pics.
Step 3: As causally as possible, work "oh, I'm just swapping out my door lock actuators" into every conversations.
Took me about three hours to do all four locks. That's between goofing around, taking breaks and chasing my 2 year old out of my tool box. Once you get the first one done, the rest are a breeze.
(98 GS400 225K)
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
From: CA
thanks daniel...im still available to replace actuator if anyone is interested. got 4 ready for install
located in inland impire (san bernardino) but willing to drive to ur location for a extra fee
contact me via email if interested moneyracer1@Aol.com
located in inland impire (san bernardino) but willing to drive to ur location for a extra fee
contact me via email if interested moneyracer1@Aol.com
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
From: CA
Just wanted to leave a follow up post. Marco, moneyracer1@Aol.com, just replaced the front passenger door actuator on my 2005 ES 330. He did an awesome job and took less than an hour. Really happy I came across this post. I'm in San Diego and he came down for the job, which worked out great.
Thanks Marco!!
Thanks Marco!!