Door Lock Acutuators DIY ???
Pole Position
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 376
Likes: 0
From: Washington
A Clairification?
I need to do the right rear door. Wading through the various posts in this thread you can't see the forest for the trees. Here is my question:
Does the window have to be removed to get the lock assembly out?
A separate, locked thread with just the necessary steps and photos would be great.
Thanks
Does the window have to be removed to get the lock assembly out?
A separate, locked thread with just the necessary steps and photos would be great.
Thanks
Advanced
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 550
Likes: 25
From: ca
Pole Position
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 376
Likes: 0
From: Washington
Thanks again
Bill
Pole Position
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 376
Likes: 0
From: Washington
Did my left rear actuator today (having done the left front a couple of years ago). I'd say the rears are easier, with one exception, as noted by others - getting the actuator out of the door. I have a tip on how to do this.
I wiggled and wiggled the loose actuator and could not get it out, so I broke down and removed the outer door handle, which is held by two screws. Front screw is easy, but the back one is covered by the actuator, so it's a Catch-22 of sorts - can't get the actuator out with the handle in place, can't get the handle out with the actuator in place.. I was finally able to get the back screw out using a 10mm offset box wrench, and then the actuator came right out. Rebuilding the actuator is like illustrated here, no need to rehash that.
But when getting the actuator back in, I did not fancy trying to install the door handle back screw with the actuator in place, so I installed the handle first and tightened the screws, then tried to install the actuator. I was able to do it surprisingly easily, the trick seemed to be to slide the actuator up while holding it all the way back against the back of the door. I think that when people try to get the actuator out, they naturally pull it towards the opening, i.e. forward, but that interferes with the door handle. If you push it back and down, it will come out.
So the bottom line is that for the rears, no need to remove the outer handle, just slide the actuator down while pushing it back.
Hope this helps.
I wiggled and wiggled the loose actuator and could not get it out, so I broke down and removed the outer door handle, which is held by two screws. Front screw is easy, but the back one is covered by the actuator, so it's a Catch-22 of sorts - can't get the actuator out with the handle in place, can't get the handle out with the actuator in place.. I was finally able to get the back screw out using a 10mm offset box wrench, and then the actuator came right out. Rebuilding the actuator is like illustrated here, no need to rehash that.
But when getting the actuator back in, I did not fancy trying to install the door handle back screw with the actuator in place, so I installed the handle first and tightened the screws, then tried to install the actuator. I was able to do it surprisingly easily, the trick seemed to be to slide the actuator up while holding it all the way back against the back of the door. I think that when people try to get the actuator out, they naturally pull it towards the opening, i.e. forward, but that interferes with the door handle. If you push it back and down, it will come out.
So the bottom line is that for the rears, no need to remove the outer handle, just slide the actuator down while pushing it back.
Hope this helps.
All things considered, it's really a pretty simple job.
Pole Position
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 207
Likes: 5
From: Texas
Be simpler to just get another motor and cannibalize the the one that the coupling is stuck on. You would have to remove the plastic end on the motor and then just tap the shaft "through" the coupling using the motor casing as the support with the armature hanging freely.
Be simpler to just get another motor and cannibalize the the one that the coupling is stuck on. You would have to remove the plastic end on the motor and then just tap the shaft "through" the coupling using the motor casing as the support with the armature hanging freely.
I tried that already. The components inside keeps it from extending further to the point where i could take it off.
Pole Position
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 207
Likes: 5
From: Texas
So you cant get some wire cutters between the coupling and motor casing? I just cut the shaft on my old motors using wire cutters and then placed them on a small vice and drove the little piece of shaft out. You have a pic of what you talking about? Guess I may be misunderstanding your situation.
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So you cant get some wire cutters between the coupling and motor casing? I just cut the shaft on my old motors using wire cutters and then placed them on a small vice and drove the little piece of shaft out. You have a pic of what you talking about? Guess I may be misunderstanding your situation.
I decided to try to cut it off the motor and try to push it out with the gear pulley. Didn't work.I thinking of using one of the brass collars from one of the motors and putting epoxy/superglue/fiberglass to make it thicker so it can fit the white plastic gear part of the actuator. I'm just afraid that it might break down over time.
So you cant get some wire cutters between the coupling and motor casing? I just cut the shaft on my old motors using wire cutters and then placed them on a small vice and drove the little piece of shaft out. You have a pic of what you talking about? Guess I may be misunderstanding your situation.
I decided to try to cut it off the motor and try to push it out with the gear pulley. Didn't work.I thinking of using one of the brass collars from one of the motors and putting epoxy/superglue/fiberglass to make it thicker so it can fit the white plastic gear part of the actuator. I'm just afraid that it might break down over time.
Pole Position
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 207
Likes: 5
From: Texas
Ok what I would do, is remove the white end of the motor and discard. Now you should have the motor case and the armature sticking out of the non drive end (butt of the motor). Set the edge of the case on the top edge of the vice jaws with the jaws open large enough for the rotor to slip through (largest part of rotor is in center). Use a roll pin punch and tap the drive end of the shaft "through" the little coupling thing. The bushing in the drive end of the case will support the coupling and with the rotor being able to pass through the vise jaws, you should be able to "drive" the rotor shaft out.
Last edited by KeyKeeper; May 30, 2013 at 12:02 PM.
Idk if this a dumb question buti just bought my 01 gs300 and I came to a lexus dealer in chantilly va to get some cbest settings changed and one of them was the car beeping when you lock all the doors but they said that the car wont beep when locking cuz the driver rear actuator is bad but its been locking everytime for me no problem im still sitting here waiting..
But my question is is this actuator problem intermittent for most or is something that once it goes it doesntwork anymore cuz I find it weird that all of a sudden it stopped working for the first time when I brought it in.
just lookin ng for some input please
Thanks guys
But my question is is this actuator problem intermittent for most or is something that once it goes it doesntwork anymore cuz I find it weird that all of a sudden it stopped working for the first time when I brought it in.
just lookin ng for some input please
Thanks guys
Not actuator related but idk about these guys cuz I asked him to check the rear light indicator cuz a brake light seems to be out I told him replaced them all and all they said was they can figure it out either wtf kind of answer is that the rear light indicator is annoyng :/
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
From: VA
My 2002 GS300 now has 3 failed door lock actuators. Just priced it out with the dealership and nearly passed out. I love the DIY approach, but I am absolutely terrified to try this myself. Could anyone recommend someone in the northern Virginia area? I live in Woodbridge. email: hjcollins@yahoo.com
Last edited by hjcollins; Jun 5, 2013 at 05:05 AM. Reason: added info
My 2002 GS300 now has 3 failed door lock actuators. Just priced it out with the dealership and nearly passed out. I love the DIY approach, but I am absolutely terrified to try this myself. Could anyone recommend someone in the northern Virginia area? I live in Woodbridge. email: hjcollins@yahoo.com