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Ron, what are you using to fasten the heat shield? I searched your thread, could find the note of it. I saw @funshine made custom brackets in post #52 (Lexus F-Sport Underbody Chassis Brace on IS-Fthread), I wanted to see what did you ended up doing or how you going to address that.
as I recall, you only lose 2 points of heatshield attachments and I basically just left them unattached, no issues with rattle or anything. I had to trim the plastic underneath though and I attached them to the brace with some loop clamps hopefully visible in this picture.
@Rossi I went ahead and secured the heatshield anyway even though I didn’t have any rattling issues. So here’s what I did. They’re about 3” from the original attachment points.
And the Le may black plates which I thought was approved somehow got blocked! Go figure
No issues, that’s good to know!
I have ZERO hope in those LeMay plates. They’ve been getting blocked everytime in Olympia since 2021. 🤣
Might just have to take matters into my own hands once this vanity plate I’m having the state reprint FINALLY shows up. The one I ordered last year took 7 months. 🤦🏿♂️
Since the TOM’s rear lower chassis brace became available, I went ahead and got one. I will be selling the titanium F Sport copy brace and the F Sport brace.
The TOM’s looks like it retains most of the attachment points for the splash shields but still no heat shield attachment points.
Got my hub shims from Mike! Just now waiting for the rotors and this upgrade is complete! These shims are 1.8mm thick so the factory bolts ended up short by about 1.5 threads. I ordered some rear lower front link bolts and they are the perfect length.
Factory hub bolts:
Rear lower front link bolts:
Thanks for the advice and help from the other thread. Now that I know I can go down the shim route instead of adapter route (to use RCF calipers with stock 2011 ISF wheels) I think I'm going to explore this route seriously.
Can you link me to the exact part number for the 'lower front link bolts' that you used to address the shorter factor bolts? And I assume I need 8 total (4x each side)?
Also, maybe a dumb question but does it have to be the figs 380mm Racing Brake rotors, or could I also use the RR racing Girodiscs as well?
Thanks for the advice and help from the other thread. Now that I know I can go down the shim route instead of adapter route (to use RCF calipers with stock 2011 ISF wheels) I think I'm going to explore this route seriously.
Can you link me to the exact part number for the 'lower front link bolts' that you used to address the shorter factor bolts? And I assume I need 8 total (4x each side)?
Also, maybe a dumb question but does it have to be the figs 380mm Racing Brake rotors, or could I also use the RR racing Girodiscs as well?
The bolt part number is 91672-G1265, yes you'd need 8 total. The rotors would have to be the 2-piece FIGS/RB IS F specific 380mm rotors as they have the proper IS F offset. I'm not sure about the RR girodiscs, but I believe those are stock replacements. Are the 2011 wheels 19x8.5 fronts? I know the setup fit the 2012+ wheels but not sure of 2011's. I'd bolt up one caliper and test fit to be sure, then add the thickness of the shim to the caliper to wheel clearance. And yes, those are the hub shims.
The 2011 wheels are 19x8.0 +45, so half an inch slimmer in width, but same offset, so I'm guessing I shouldn't have an issue... but from looking at pictures of the 2012+ stock wheel it does appear that the updated version has a more convex profile to the spokes whereas the 2011 wheels are completely flat, so not sure if that might screw me.
At this point I have 3 options it seems....
Option 1: use 2011 wheels, RCF rotors, +5MM spacers, longer studs
Option 2: use 2011 wheels, ISF Figs RB rotors, hub shim - there's a chance the 2011 wheel spoke profile might force the use of a spacer... but not sure
Option 3: Apex VS-5RS 18x10 +40
decisions decisions!
Last edited by kzlflash; Dec 22, 2025 at 05:47 AM.
The 2011 wheels are 19x8.0 +45, so half an inch slimmer in width, but same offset, so I'm guessing I shouldn't have an issue... but from looking at pictures of the 2012+ stock wheel it does appear that the updated version has a more convex profile to the spokes whereas the 2011 wheels are completely flat, so not sure if that might screw me.
At this point I have 3 options it seems....
Option 1: use 2011 wheels, RCF rotors, +5MM spacers, longer studs
Option 2: use 2011 wheels, ISF Figs RB rotors, hub shim - there's a chance the 2011 wheel spoke profile might make force the use of a spacer... but not sure
Option 3: Apex VS-5RS 18x10 +40
decisions decisions!
if option 1 only needs a 5mm wheel spacer to clear 2011 wheels, that means option 2 will work. Keep in mind, the option 1 requires the use of 350phi caliper adapters/spacers which move the calipers outwards by 10mm.
Any chance the calipers have been weighed? Curious if the RC F/GS F calipers are heavier than the OEM IS F calipers. I suspect they are. I'm not willing to pull wheels today to find out, but I might later. I have suspension work to do on both cars this coming week and might be able to accomodate this check.
Any chance the calipers have been weighed? Curious if the RC F/GS F calipers are heavier than the OEM IS F calipers. I suspect they are. I'm not willing to pull wheels today to find out, but I might later. I have suspension work to do on both cars this coming week and might be able to accomodate this check.
I don’t remember weighing an IS F front caliper. But, here’s an RC F front caliper with some brake fluid
in it.
