Thanks! Here are a couple pictures. The side vents/trims aren’t attached yet so the one in the picture isn’t centered. I’m not sure how to attach them yet, they have double sided tape on them though. I may just use some type of mesh on there.

 

What do you think about the brace, any noticeable difference?

 

Yes, there's definitely a noticeable difference!

 

I've got 2013 IS-350 using this same case as this. It also accepted the OS-Giken w/out clearancing the case. Is the finned IS-F case beefier inside creating the need to grind it??

As best I can tell, you have used an impact gun to do the 60 to 90° of rotation on the the torque to yield, so far so good? No issues?

Thanks!

Awesome build thread! Your timeline of work done is headed to the moon at a record rate! And everything you've touched is so clean!

 

Hi, the older ISF housings are the ones that need to be opened up to get the LSD with ring gear in. Newer ones are finned as well but have wider opening.
Yes, I used an impact gun to turn the bolts another 60-90 degrees after the initial torque.. Book specifies to apply loctite on the threads as well as on the head flange, which made turning the bolts easier and smoother. And yes, so far so good! Thank you! Appreciate the kind comments!

 

Can you please remind us what spring rates are being used, Front and Rear?

 

my setup is 18K front and 14K rear.

 

I hope you never have to deal with this but with all the poly added, it can be problematic over time. I've installed full polyurethane on a couple of DD's and eventually it squeaked and would stick in place actually binding up the suspension.
My solution was to pull it apart, pull the inner sleeves, and drill through the bushing shell and bushing. Tap the shells for a zerk fittings and grind a 360° circular channel in the interior through the new hole. Grease and reassemble. When it gets sticky or squeaks, grease it with choice of silicone lubricant. On thrust bushings like the front LCA, you can add grooves to the thrust area and the grease will flow. It sucked to redo everything but it was quick and it solved the dry bushing problem.

On a DD it needed it once a year or so. Yours could last a very long time depending on use.

The the flush mount zerk that use pointy tipped grease gun were my choice as they don't stick out as much.

 

This has not been my experience with Super Pro bushings from Figs Engineering. I haven't had to do anything to my bushings since they were installed in the front some years ago at the same time I put the OS Giken spool in the diff. I did grease them quite heavily and made sure it stayed inside as much as possible on install. To be fair, I've gone solid in the rear of the front LCA, soon to be solid top and bottom in the front. Glad to have decent roads here so it won't be a nightmare as it would somewhere else.

 

The inside surface of the suspension poly bushings have “knurling” that are designed to retain grease/lube. I imagine if they were smooth, that the grease will all be pushed out in short time. Like @lobuxracer I have not had any squeaking or binding issues so far.
Years ago, I did drill and tap some Supra suspension arms/bushings and installed grease fittings like you did, @2013FSport but the bushings were solid nylon.

 

Took advantage of the 4-day weekend and wet sanded and polished the hood. There were a few imperfections mostly under the last coat of clear and now those are gone. Going to give it more time to fully cure before getting it protected with PPF.

 

Friday weather was nice enough to take the F out of winter storage

 

Amazing build! I came here looking for info on the 3.13 final drive, I'll be ordering that OEM new now. Now looking for a diff to install them in. It's crazy that new, the RC-F rear diff is $700 less than the IS-F rear diff if they are basically the same.





I love the rest of your build too! I just picked up a 19k mile IS-F and you are giving me courage to modify, lol.

Have you thought about a yellow pin stripe on the edge of the spoiler, something like this white stripe on an E92 spoiler?

 

Thank you! If you're buying the ring and pinion new, might as well get the 2014 F housing 41102-22030, and buy all new bearings and seals, and of course an OS Giken LSD. Unless of course if you're looking for a used diff to use the torsen from it.
I am thinking of the pin stripe on the spoiler, I did it on the RC F.

 

I actually just realized the 2021 RC-F diff already has the 3.13 final drive gears in it, they are not separate. I'm trying to decide between (1) 2021 RC-F diff with torsen and 3.13 gears already installed or (2) just adding the 3.13 gears and OS Giken to my '08 rear diff.

Definitely do the pin stripe on the rear spoiler! Or maybe try the white paint fade into the carbon fiber look, I always liked this too.