Camera mounted.



Looking for proper 12V source.






Cut wires and installed connector, for when bumper needs to come off.



Radar cruise distance button tucked away since I never use it. Camera switch will take its place.



Waiting for GROM VL2 VAUX harness, can’t believe it’s not supplied with the unit.

 

 

That FF camera is next level, awesome.

 

Refinished factory wheels.

 

I did the same, but with my car being black, I went for black gloss. I also discovered the Tacoma lug nuts fit on the ARP studs with OEM wheels perfectly. I ordered a set in black for a full black out on the wheels after running OEM studs and chrome lugs for quite a while.

 

I was hoping for a little less bright blue, more like matte anodized look. But, I dunno, I think I'm starting to like this more and more.

 

Time for a little update! Got the @FIGS spec’ed/built 4-way Ohlins TTX coilovers. Mike also made custom titanium upper hats with titanium studs for me.

 

I am inspired and motivated to replace remaining OEM rubber bushings with new polys.
I am new to bushing labor, having done only swaybar bushings and Front LCA #2 thus far.
Trying to improve readiness for this multiple-day job.

Questions:
1) Did you find the Front Lower #1 to be an arduous process? Was a torch necessary to soften the OEM staked rubber bushing for removal? Looks like heat was used on many of the original bushings above.
2) Tools. Are Front and Rear bushing replacements possible without use of a hydraulic press? Figs sells SPC 40940 and SuperPro bushing press kits. Are any of the bushing sleeves tapered or all purely cylindrical? Looks like SPC 40920 came in handy for you with the ball joints?
3) Looks like the Rear knuckles need to be removed from the car to replace the Trailing Arm (Trac Link) and Upper #1 knuckle bushings. Does it make sense to replace Toe link knuckle or Rear #2 knuckle ball joints too? Or the LCA knuckle bearing? Are there any other preventative maintenance replacements I should consider with the Rear knuckle removed?
4) Interested in the choice to retain OEM Front UCA's vs Figs G1068. Any thoughts to share here?

Would appreciate your comments when time permits.
Thanks.

 

I tried pressing the old bushings out withI no luck on any of them, using a hydraulic press. I torched the center metal sleeve of each bushing until I can pull it out easily, so hardly any heating of the actual links or arms. Then I used a metal saw to cut through the outer metal bushing sleeve, No need to cut all the way as it collapses the it's thin enough, just with a slight tap using a flat tip screwdriver. Most were seized with some corrosion. The one piece poly bushings definitely needed to be pressed in using a vise or press. I think the only bushing not replaced in the rear knuckles is the lower control arm bearing. But FIGS sells a solid one for that as well, no poly replacement that I know of for that one. The metal outer sleeved bushings like the front upper control inner, and rear lower control arm inner bushings are tricky as you have to put a support in the middle to not bend the control arms. I suppose you could try using an air chisel on the bushings with metal lip,I did this with the rear diff front bushings with much success. All bushings are straight, no taper. HTH!

Ron

 

I did the diff bushings the same way - air chisel. The lower control arm in the front is a beast to get out.

Bushing work is a real labor of love. Getting the old ones out is never easy. Getting the new ones in (especially rubber ones) is always challenging.

 

New Ohlins TTX/ILX coilovers installed! Ride height set. Fresh oil. Ready for spring and summer fun!

 

Very nice, very clean, Ron!

I’ve been eyeing the Ohlins R&T coils, but now you have me curious about the TTX coils.

 

Thanks! Can't go wrong with R&T. But TTX is just the next upgrade from them!

 

Put together an adjustment tool kit for the Ohlins TTX and installed some magnets for the shock tower covers, an idea from another F owner.

 

^^^^ great idea and design.