I ordered a key for my 2009 RX 350 from 1010keys (Really good customer service and communication) and easily programmed it to start the engine, but getting it to unlock the doors didn't happen (so far).
I carefully followed the procedure that came with the key which the same as the one given below.
I monitored the voltage at the dashboard and it was always above 12.5 vdc.
Step 9. never occurred after many tries so I was unable to register the key.

Any suggestion of how to fix this problem will be appreciated.

RX 350 Key Fob Programming
1. Drivers door open, all other doors closed, key removed from ignition switch.
2. Within 5 seconds insert and remove the key from the ignition switch twice.
3. Within 40 seconds close and open driver's door twice.
4. Insert and remove the key from the ignition switch.
5. Within 40 seconds close and open driver's door twice.
6. Insert the key into the ignition switch and close the driver's door.
7. Switch ignition on and off,
a) Once to program a remote transmitter code while retaining the original codes.
b) Twice to program a remote transmitter code while erasing the original codes.
c) Three times to check how many remote transmitters are currently registered.
d) Five times to erase all registered codes.
8. Remove key from ignition switch.
9. System should now lock and unlock vehicle. Once, twice or five times depending which mode has been selected. One to four times, slowly, to indicate number of remote transmitters registered.
10. Within 40 seconds press and hold lock and unlock key remote transmitter buttons, together, for 1.5 seconds.
11. Within 3 seconds press any key remote transmitter button.
12. System should now lock and unlock vehicle. Once to confirm registration, or twice to indicate registration has failed.
13. Within 40 seconds repeat steps 11 and 12 to program remaining remote transmitters.

 

The security chip and key fob transmitter are two distinctly separate items so though it may start your car the key fob may not be a martch for your car. The frequency of the key fob to activate your locks and rear trunk needs to be exact, I also had the same experience trying to pair a key fob purchased on eBay to my RX to no avail after many tries... I purchased another key from a reputable key seller in San Diego (they also laser cut it for me and mailed it to me) took me less than 5 mins to have it paired and working perfectly... tossed the eBay key in the trash. IF yo have a spare key fob battery you could try that as some even new no-name brands are known to be bad but I'd guess it is the key fob itself.

Good luck

 

I think the problem is with the car since I can't get past step 9 which is where the lock/unlock series indicates that the the car has cleared all registered codes.
I also tried switching the ignition on/off just once in step 7 to register it directly and that didn't work either.

 

Step 9 is where your car is actually acknowledging your key fob... or failing to do so.

Could be wrong key (fob is not the proper frequency for the car or just a bad transmitter even none at all),
Bad fob battery - despite being "new" doesn't mean the battery is good, can you replace it with a known good one?
Faulty control module (if it is recongizing any other key this is not your issue), this would be a very rare cause.
Do you know how many keys are programmed to your car? Do you have access to Techstream?

Again I faced the same problem in my case the key fob, purchased on eBay, was unable to pair to my car.

 

Hmmm. I thought that Step 9 (in the OP above) was to confirm the erasure all registered codes and Step 12 was to confirm or deny actual registration.???
I don't know how many codes are registered. I've only had the car for a couple weeks.
I just installed Techstream from https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/how...nutes.1034923/ and I got a cable today but I'm looking for some training or a manual for the software.
Does Techstream have a more direct way to register the key codes?

 

To pair the key to the ignition - yes (this saves paying the dealer a couple hundreds bucks for all of teh 10 mins it takes them)
To see how many keys are paired to the car - yes, and you can delete also
To pair to the locks/trunk... I believe I had to follow the above procedure don't think I used TS to pair the fob

 

OK. Thanks for all the info.

I think I'll let this problem sit until I get the Techstream up and running and see if that gives me any clues about why I can't get the car in the programming mode for the doors.

 

I am having the same problem with the same instructions from the same eBay seller (1010keys), i.e., can’t clear all registered codes. Have you found a work-around…?

Best,
Bob

 

I found this
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/how...nutes.1034923/
The first time I installed it it wouldn't recognize my cable. I re-installed it and it worked.
I bought this cable PARANNIC Mini VCI J2534 Cable V18.00.008 Latest Version, OBD2 Cable Connector Scanner Adapter Fit for TIS Techstream Programming Diagnostic Cable, Support Win XP WIN7 WIN10
It came with a mini CD which had a later version of Techstream on it which I didn't use, but the vendor sent me a link to download the contents of the CD in case I wanted to try it later.
The cable doesn't work in cold temps (-14°F here today), but at or above room temp it's OK. I bitched to the vendor and they offered a small discount which I asked them to double and they did.
I was able to program both of the key functions easily.
Here is a link that explains a little about using Techstream. You can use Techstream to customize all sorts of things from steering wheel position to lighting.

 

I don't know if this helps but I have successfully programmed several keys and remotes (and cleared out the old ones previous owners lost/didn't convey with the car when I took it) with a fancy bidirectional OBDII/ECU scanner. The one I have is an XTool D7: you use the "Immobiliser" function from the diagnostics menu after you do an initial scan to see all the key blades and remotes that are paired to the system and what kind of key they are: "master" vs "slave", and then the "Special Function" feature from the main menu to pair new key blades and remotes. When I started, all I had was the valet key and the key card. Now I have a bunch of master keys programmed and several remotes. Several from 1010. I also bought one of those flip-key enclosures on eBay and struggled through figuring out how to make that work (the key was finding the radio chip and putting it in the right spot -- I had to disassemble and reassemble the button remote sub-unit to relocate the radio chip to the right part of the flip-key enclosure).

Overall, while it's still a little clunky, the bidirectional scanner feels a lot more intuitive than the lengthy up-up-down-down-left-right-left-right-b-a-b-a-select-start sequences I've seen for DIYing. And it's also useful for other things. As far as I can tell it does everything Techstream can do. Between new key programming, TPMS reset, brake bleeding, I've saved enough mechanic money and time to justify the $350.

 

Frankly, I was disappointed with 1010key’s customer service. They did cut the key correctly, but I never did get their pairing instructions to work with my ‘08 400h — the typical song-and-dance about “must be your car, blah, blah, blah”. I ended up biting the bullet, acquired a copy of TechStream, bought the MINI-VCI dongle, and successfully programmed both aspects of the new fob. Don’t get me wrong — it’s not exactly trivial to get TechStream up-and-running on your laptop and talking to your car, but if you have the correct transmitter, you *will* eventually succeed. Patience/perseverance is key. (No pun intended. &#128521