This thread is gold! Kudos to AtomicLexus for kicking this off and the detail.

I have a question about the Metra harnesses with regard to non-invasive installation of the center speaker attenuation mod (for the OEM speaker) and adding an in-line amp for the sub.

To my understanding, the Metra harness has a female connector that mates to the car's speaker wiring, and then spade connectors to attach to aftermarket speakers. Makes total sense when e.g. upgrading the dash corner speakers.

I don't see how these are of assistance for a non-invasive installation of the attenuating resistor or an inline amp. Surely we need a harness that has both the male and female OEM connectors. Then, this harness can be spliced for:
a) an inline resistor (for the center speaker)
b) to connect to the original speaker lead to the OEM sub to go to a high level input of the inline amp, then back from the amp to the OEM sub.

I don't know that any such male/female extension speaker harnesses exist.

 

Answering my own question. It's this harness:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000549557428.html

 

If you are still in an experimental mood, can you try ENABLING the ANC and see if the "womp womp" sound comes in during start up and the drive? It was VERY obvious when I installed the powered sub, can't miss it at all. I am hoping that it's not the case with the improved amp + stock sub route... Thank you so much

 

Hi fellas,

I just got my NX350h (2 weeks old) and this seems to be the first upgrade to do. I actually don't mind the stock sound but everyone seems very happy with the upgrades....plus it's easy enough it seems w/ everyone's experience. I went on the back and was removing the removal covers/boxes after reading some of the threads here and I like what tbartman67 has done. It's reversible and seems very easy to do. Easy and simple is good. Do you need to even remove the left side panel that's on top of the sub? or just look for the 2 wires and connect on that for the sub signal? how did you mount the HS10 on that box—velcro? The boxes seem quiet flimsy and may need some dampening material in the back for some material support?

The other I was contemplating is the purchase of the fronts. I'm between the Alpine and the JL Audio that are being used here. The JL is 2x more money but is it really noticeably better? It's slightly smaller but apparently fits fine w/o some hole enlargements. The other is if I'm going to splurge and get the JL for the front, would it be ok to skimp on changing the middle. Saves me from buying another pair if the middle doesn't contribute much. in fact sometimes, on other cars, they say it muddies the sound and it's due to the center.

As for theMetra 72-8109, I would need 2 pairs of these? a pair for the fronts...and the other pair for the sub HS10? Did I get that right?

Observation, I didn't see anyone putting any sound dampening sheets anywhere.

Much appreciated.

 

Have you heard of anyone who's successfully installed the C2-400? I've read the alpine S40 (same 4") fits perfectly and was about to get that when I came across this thread, actually fits even better than the C2's 3.5". I wonder if that would sound better. Sensitivity is very close to the 3.5.

I've also not seen anyone changed the speaker on the front door. I'm assuming those are woofers.

 

This mega install from the guys in Poland that make the custom fit sub box appear to have:
https://caraudio.basser.pl/en/57-lexus/

 

This goes on the basis that the stock sub just needs more juice to produce? How's it compared to the HS10? Has anyone tried?

 

Is the one entering our stock sub speaker level input? So just interrupt that, put it in the input and route it back out?

 

yes, the input to the rear sub is speaker level, just splice in or take those leads out to the speaker level INPUTS of the Taramps Amp.. Regarding using a 4 inch speaker in place of the 3.5 inch Ive only read cons vs the pros on the topic.... search the threads and decide.... sometimes if "some is good more is better" doesnt always apply.

 

Subwoofer to get very low Hertz 100 or less.

If you add dual cone 6 1/2 inch speakers in the back and or side doors you can get as low as 35 HZ which satisfies most mid-bass requirements.

Assuming all your connections are tight and splices electrically secure, and you are line out level into the sub, then I would suggest you consult a professional audio store. Surely , you all can spend some money on a audio professional after spend 50-70K $ on the NX. One thing they can fairly easily add is a startup delay and a shutdown delay the that would eliminate the startup pop and the ongoing womp womp. Sometimes the what seems like the easier , cheaper way is beyond ones electrical understanding and DIY ability.

YMMV,
MidCow3

 

I’ve installed the JL Audio C1-400 (4”) and it fits, albeit with some minor shavings of 2 corners on the plastic. No biggy. The tweeter’s height (my concern TBH) also clears with no issue. No zip ties needed. Just folded down the 2 mounting ears.

observations: when compared to the stock, it’s much less harsh in terms of the high frequencies. Smoother I guess. Improved clarity without being too bright.

Do you guys ever see the cone move when it’s playing? There’s caps soldered on the speakers that it’s probably working as mainly tweeters only, right?

• frequency response: 64-24,000 Hz that can’t possibly be 64 Hz….not possible with this size.

 

Capacitor is a simple crossover for the tweeter only.

 

If anyone wants to protect their dash from this install, I suggest putting a pc of paper on the A-pillar coz that’s where it gets a bit of pressure from the removal of the cover. It’s tighter there in the corners. No need for masking tape on the dash coz it’s nice and soft actually. No marring will happen.

myb I’ll pop the old one and see if the cone moves more. Anyone had the same observation or are they really pretty useless.

 

That was one of the things that I was wondering when I installed the new dash speakers. Can confirm that I've never seen the cones move...

 

Is that the norm? I’m not really into replacing speakers so I don’t have a lot of experience. It’s just that when you look at the speakers you can see the cone has that wavy base that makes one think it’s going to be moving. But when it’s installed I can’t even see it move 1mm. I tried feeling it but myb 0.3mm at best.