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Ok, I've tried my darnest researching for proper car amplifiers that falls under 15A so I can use my 12V cigarette lighter plug for power. I think I found a Kenwood one that is 15A draw. However, the minimum wire gauge recommendation is 10awg whereas the cigarette lighter connector thingie is 16awg.
Can anyone recommend any CAR amplifier that draws 15A or less and the recommended power wire size of the same amp is 16awg or thinner? The reason for the requirements is that I have a gas version and would like to use the 16awg cigarette connector recommended way earlier in this thread. I couldn't find any cigarette lighter plug that is thicker than 16awg so if anyone can find one, that would probably make it easier to search for a proper amp.
(The reason for this CAR amp search as opposed to using the Fosi amp is to avoid the "popping" noise)
So, I decided to try a different approach, like some others wanting to easily put things back to the original condition if the need arises. Also, I preferred to have the sub in the cabin, instead of under the rear deck. I have a cargo mat on top of the deck, and it seemed like the deck itself plus the cargo mat would mute the sound significantly if I put a sub below the deck, or even amplified the OEM sub
. It occurred to me that the space behind the wheel wells is not very usable, and could fit a small sub. I bought the H YANKA SODA-08ASW 8 inch powered sub on Amazon for a little under $100, and wired it to the sub wiring in the rear of my NX 350h. I used the rear power outlet for power. My biggest difficulty was figuring out how to get the connector to the OEM sub to release. It took a lot of time and experimenting to figure out that first you have to pry loose the white holder that holds the wiring harness to the sub. Then you have to insert a small flathead screwdriver into a small gap between the white holder and the two black connectors, to release them from the white holder. Then, the release tab permitting the black connectors to separate is on the bottom, where it was hidden by the white holder. Anyway, my new powered sub is now nestled in the nook where the first aid kit was installed, with extra support from a bungie cord. Not elegant, but out of sight and out of the way. Just installed and tested today. Will do some driving soon to see how it works out.
For those of you interested to know, I tried this exact setup as Brooksguy had done. The bass is definitely an improvement. However, due to the ANC/ESE, the fake engine noise is pipped through the subwoofer consistently making it completely unbearable. I disconnected the newly installed subwoofer after one just test drive. I am going back to search for a car amp that can boost the stock sub enough but won't make a popping sound. If your car does not have ANC, this is definitely a fairly easy solution compared to other ones that have been suggested in this thread.
Cheers!
Last edited by Will0120; Oct 19, 2024 at 11:01 PM.
Ok, I've tried my darnest researching for proper car amplifiers that falls under 15A so I can use my 12V cigarette lighter plug for power. I think I found a Kenwood one that is 15A draw. However, the minimum wire gauge recommendation is 10awg whereas the cigarette lighter connector thingie is 16awg.
Can anyone recommend any CAR amplifier that draws 15A or less and the recommended power wire size of the same amp is 16awg or thinner? The reason for the requirements is that I have a gas version and would like to use the 16awg cigarette connector recommended way earlier in this thread. I couldn't find any cigarette lighter plug that is thicker than 16awg so if anyone can find one, that would probably make it easier to search for a proper amp.
(The reason for this CAR amp search as opposed to using the Fosi amp is to avoid the "popping" noise)
Thanks everyone in advance again!
There was a thicker gauge 12V plug on Amazon posted earlier in the thread. What's the Kenwood amp model?
Thank you! I did find the cigarette lighter you're talking about w/ 12awg wire on Amazon now.
So, I THINK I found one that satisfies all conditions: Utilize rear 12V cig. plug, not overload the stock subwoofer, and acceptance of 12awg power wire. The model is Alpine KTA-200M. The only challenge that I currently have with this specific amp is that it does NOT have high level input so it won't turn on on its own by detecting the input signal (so I understand anyways...). Therefore, it appears that I need to tap the included "remote" wire into another vehicle wire that is associated with ignition switch on/off. I've included a screenshot from the manual. Is my best bet here maybe just posi-tap into the cigarette lighter 12awg power wire that I would buy from Amazon? Would that work? Or, would the fact that I've wired the power to this amp via the 12V cigarette lighter basically wake up the amp whenever I turn on the car without having to do additional wiring?
(The Kenwood one that I was looking at is KAC-M3001 but with it requiring 10awg wire, probably not a safe choice with my power wire being 12awg right...? This one does have speaker level input so I wouldn't have to worry about the powering on part but yea...)
How do you know if you have ANC/ESE? I can't find any reference to either of those terms (spelled out or abbreviated) in the manuals for my 2023 NX350h Premium (without ML). It would appear that I don't have it, since I'm not hearing any amplified engine noise through my modified subwoofer setup (described earlier in the thread). I guess that's a good thing. But still, I'm curious about why some cars of this model and trim level would have it and others not. Is this something that Lexus added in later model years?
How do you know if you have ANC/ESE? I can't find any reference to either of those terms (spelled out or abbreviated) in the manuals for my 2023 NX350h Premium (without ML). It would appear that I don't have it, since I'm not hearing any amplified engine noise through my modified subwoofer setup (described earlier in the thread). I guess that's a good thing. But still, I'm curious about why some cars of this model and trim level would have it and others not. Is this something that Lexus added in later model years?
Honestly not sure. Maybe only on the gas models as mine is a gas model?
Btw, been meaning to thank you for providing some really good and helpful details on your setup, especially the part about how to remove the current connectors from the OEM stock subwoofer, I certainly struggled with it mightily too ha... So, THANK YOU!
Also, what gauge of wire did you use to draw power from the 12v cigarette plug as the powered subwoofer you installed recommends 8 gauge power and ground wires? This is kinda the only time that I wished that I had a hybrid model as I could have just connected a proper amp or powered subwoofer to the 12V battery right in the back
Active Noise Control (ANC) and Active Sound Control (ASC).
Only the 350 with turbo (not hybrid) and F-sports have this.
Does the improved subwoofer make the faux engine sound even better? Can someone chime in if they improved the sub that has a 350 or F-sport.
350 Gas F-Sport Series 2 owner here, I am sad to report that when I wired in an under-seat powered subwoofer, it made the fake engine noise completely unbearable. It's absolutely a deal breaker as it makes a really hard to describe but extremely noticeable sound through the car ride, as soon as the car is started. The only thing to do is to disable the ANC in this case. Someone in the earlier part of thread described how to do that.
If you go with the improved amp route but stay with the factory subwoofer, I THINK it might be ok but I can't comment on it myself unfortunately. Good luck!
350 Gas F-Sport Series 2 owner here, I am sad to report that when I wired in an under-seat powered subwoofer, it made the fake engine noise completely unbearable. It's absolutely a deal breaker as it makes a really hard to describe but extremely noticeable sound through the car ride, as soon as the car is started. The only thing to do is to disable the ANC in this case. Someone in the earlier part of thread described how to do that.
If you go with the improved amp route but stay with the factory subwoofer, I THINK it might be ok but I can't comment on it myself unfortunately. Good luck!
What deal did you break and what did you finally end up going with ? Good luck with good sound.
What deal did you break and what did you finally end up going with ? Good luck with good sound.
YMMV,
MidCow3
Ha... I am still in limbo at the moment. With the "womp womp" sound issue related to ANC as described above, I believe my only options would be either:
1. Aftermarket amp & sub (or standalone powered sub) + disabling ANC
2. Install improved amp and stay with the stock sub (and hope that the ANC "womp womp" sound issue wouldn't flare up)
I haven't done the Atomic Lexus suggested Foci amp method because I really don't want the "pop" sound whenever I start and shut off the car. The approach to avoid this would be getting a proper "car" amp but then that would require the 12V wires to be run from the front all the way to the back and I really don't want do to that...
Ha... I am still in limbo at the moment. With the "womp womp" sound issue related to ANC as described above, I believe my only options would be either:
1. Aftermarket amp & sub (or standalone powered sub) + disabling ANC
2. Install improved amp and stay with the stock sub (and hope that the ANC "womp womp" sound issue wouldn't flare up)
I haven't done the Atomic Lexus suggested Foci amp method because I really don't want the "pop" sound whenever I start and shut off the car. The approach to avoid this would be getting a proper "car" amp but then that would require the 12V wires to be run from the front all the way to the back and I really don't want do to that...
So like I said, in limbo lol... :|
Adding an amp for the stock sub does not remove the "womp womp" sound. I think I mentioned previously I just installed a remote switch for my extra sub amp so I only turn it on after the car has started and I don't get the womp womp anymore (as far as I can tell, this only sounds immediately when the car starts). The pop might still present (it was before I added the power switch) but I never hear it now since the radio is already playing. I just hear my song with weak bass, I hit the switch and now I have strong bass. I'm not sure that I don't notice it because there's already a signal coming to the amp at the time that maybe no pop occurs in this situation, or it simply becomes inaudible over the existing sounds being played. Either way I've mostly mitigated both of these annoyances, for me anyway, but I may be easier to please than others. I disabled my ANC after I installed the power switch but because my sub's amp doesn't start right away (its defaulted to power off on every start), I really haven't been able to tell if this eliminates the womp sound or not, and I've reached the point where I don't care because its good enough for me. I'm pretty happy with my $200 upgrade for new dash speakers and add-on amp. Not a perfect solution, but then I just look at the money still in my bank account and feel fine, LOL.
Adding an amp for the stock sub does not remove the "womp womp" sound. I think I mentioned previously I just installed a remote switch for my extra sub amp so I only turn it on after the car has started and I don't get the womp womp anymore (as far as I can tell, this only sounds immediately when the car starts). The pop might still present (it was before I added the power switch) but I never hear it now since the radio is already playing. I just hear my song with weak bass, I hit the switch and now I have strong bass. I'm not sure that I don't notice it because there's already a signal coming to the amp at the time that maybe no pop occurs in this situation, or it simply becomes inaudible over the existing sounds being played. Either way I've mostly mitigated both of these annoyances, for me anyway, but I may be easier to please than others. I disabled my ANC after I installed the power switch but because my sub's amp doesn't start right away (its defaulted to power off on every start), I really haven't been able to tell if this eliminates the womp sound or not, and I've reached the point where I don't care because its good enough for me. I'm pretty happy with my $200 upgrade for new dash speakers and add-on amp. Not a perfect solution, but then I just look at the money still in my bank account and feel fine, LOL.
Heya,
Just to clarify, the "pop" sound is related to the Foci amp method since it's not a true car amp so it produces that "popping" sound when the car is first turned on and shut off. There shouldn't be any "popping" noises during the drive. This, as far as I understand, is NOT related to ANC. So yes, the remote on/off switch that you mentioned would definitely address the "popping" sound issue.
However, the "womp womp" sound that one would hear both during the car starting and being driven, that's the one that's related to the ANC. I think the only way to get around it is to disable the ANC. Had you not disabled the ANC, you would continue to hear that sound throughout your drive and it would absolutely drive you off the walls no matter how easy going you are...
IF you are feeling generous and kind, plug the ANC wiring harness back in and let us know if you hear the "womp womp" noise during the drive with your Foci amp turned on? I think I can PROBABLY live the popping noise during car turning off and off so if the "womp womp" is confirmed not present, then I might just suck it up and do the Foci amp method...
Just to clarify, the "pop" sound is related to the Foci amp method since it's not a true car amp so it produces that "popping" sound when the car is first turned on and shut off. There shouldn't be any "popping" noises during the drive. This, as far as I understand, is NOT related to ANC. So yes, the remote on/off switch that you mentioned would definitely address the "popping" sound issue.
However, the "womp womp" sound that one would hear both during the car starting and being driven, that's the one that's related to the ANC. I think the only way to get around it is to disable the ANC. Had you not disabled the ANC, you would continue to hear that sound throughout your drive and it would absolutely drive you off the walls no matter how easy going you are...
IF you are feeling generous and kind, plug the ANC wiring harness back in and let us know if you hear the "womp womp" noise during the drive with your Foci amp turned on? I think I can PROBABLY live the popping noise during car turning off and off so if the "womp womp" is confirmed not present, then I might just suck it up and do the Foci amp method...
Yes, confirmed on the pop, I have the Fosi amp. I have another Fosi on my home stereo which I added when I switched out my AV receiver with one that didn't have a powered sub port so I added it to continue using my existing sub. It does the same thing, although I normally leave it powered all the time so not an issue.
As for the womp womp, for me it only occurred immediately after starting the car. I would hear two significant Woooomppp, woommmmppp (or was it 3, I don't remember), but quiet after that. It was for that very reason I added the power switch to delay amp power up. I've not heard it at all since. It was after all that occurred that I actually turned off the ANC only just playing around unrelated to the sound system (just thru the ODB port, I didn't unplug any connector).
Edit: Actually, now that I think about it, ANC on my car is still active. Its the engine sound enhancement feature I turned off. Frankly, I remember playing around with both settings and I really couldn't tell any difference with any combination of settings. It was on my to-do list to poke around again but just been too busy.
Last edited by Droid13; Nov 20, 2024 at 01:43 PM.
Reason: Added note
Yes, confirmed on the pop, I have the Fosi amp. I have another Fosi on my home stereo which I added when I switched out my AV receiver with one that didn't have a powered sub port so I added it to continue using my existing sub. It does the same thing, although I normally leave it powered all the time so not an issue.
As for the womp womp, for me it only occurred immediately after starting the car. I would hear two significant Woooomppp, woommmmppp (or was it 3, I don't remember), but quiet after that. It was for that very reason I added the power switch to delay amp power up. I've not heard it at all since. It was after all that occurred that I actually turned off the ANC only just playing around unrelated to the sound system (just thru the ODB port, I didn't unplug any connector).
Edit: Actually, now that I think about it, ANC on my car is still active. Its the engine sound enhancement feature I turned off. Frankly, I remember playing around with both settings and I really couldn't tell any difference with any combination of settings. It was on my to-do list to poke around again but just been too busy.
Oh interesting! So if you get an ODB plug in thingie, you see the option to disable both ANC and ESE in their? Because the only other ANC disabling method that's been identified thus far in this thread is by unplugging the connector. Can you share the ODB scanner/plug-in that you have? And just to confirm, you have the 350 GAS and/or F-sport version right?
Oh interesting! So if you get an ODB plug in thingie, you see the option to disable both ANC and ESE in their? Because the only other ANC disabling method that's been identified thus far in this thread is by unplugging the connector. Can you share the ODB scanner/plug-in that you have? And just to confirm, you have the 350 GAS and/or F-sport version right?
I used the Carista app to change these two settings. I didn't use the Carista BT unit that is suggested to go with it because I already had a really decent ODBII Bluetooth unit (ODBLink MX+) I had from my previous RX hybrid. Its a pretty capable unit, I had it to monitor the RPMs of each electric motor, power flow characteristics within the hybrid system, traction battery cooling fan testing, and monitored the traction battery individual block voltages while driving just to make sure they weren't showing signs of degradation. But yea, my NX is just the turbo gas model so has all the ANC stuff.
I was out tonight and thinking about this, I turned my amp on immediately after starting. I caught it in mid-woommpp. I heard ...omp, Woomp and then just silence. Played a few songs up to "60" volume setting so things were definitely moving and shaking, but in between tracks or quiet parts of a track, silence, no weird sounds.
what deal breaker ?
I think I can PROBABLY live the popping noise during car turning off and off so if the "womp womp" is confirmed not present, then I might just suck it up and do the Foci amp method...