Originally Posted by tundotcom

Installed my Infinity Reference REF-3032CFX speakers today. Thanks to @Droid13 @SgtLip @AtomicLexus and others for their help. Getting the speaker grilles off was the hardest part for me. The passenger side one in particular is hindered by the A pillar cover, so I really had to yank it out. I ended up leaving a mark on the A pillar fabric on both sides but I don't care too much about that.

The rest of the installation was pretty easy. All the advice was spot on. 10mm combination wrench to crack the screws loose and carefully remove by hand. Metra 72-8109 is indeed the correct cable. The black and white ends are different sizes so there should be no mistaking where to clip them onto the speaker end. Inserting the screws at a 45 degree angle at first and then slowly tightening them down worked like a charm.

If you're a complete newbie like me, you can definitely do it on your own with the information in this thread. The speakers sound much better than the OEM Pioneer speakers but as mentioned before, the weak bass is definitely more noticeable now.

The last part for the subwoofer amp install from AliExpress arrives today, but now I need to wait for one of you guys to take pics of the entire process before I attempt it on my own.
edit: everything has arrived. Anything I am missing?

Originally Posted by hexpletive

So far it sounds great.
It's only been in for a couple days so I'm still running through a lot of my normal music listening for resonance issues. I haven't really found anything that is annoyingly rattling around yet.

I did lay some sound deadener directly under the sub but I didn't go crazy with it. I doubt it has much impact in this car with the factory deadener/sound absorbing material it already has. But I was already in there anyways and had some deadener material.


I'm running a pretty conversative gain setting on the amp. I originally set it just below clipping with a 40hz -5db signal at 50 volume on the head unit and it was too much for the rest of the system and was overwhelming everything else. And big boomy bass isn't really what I go for these days.
I thought I might try it up firing if I wasn't getting enough bass response down firing, but I don't think I'll be doing that anymore.
The trunk liner still has the hook on the right side holding it down. With the rear seats in the recline position those also hold it down pretty well. I have to put them up to the normal position to unclip it from the storage bin.


That amp looks like it should be fine for that sub.

Kicker 49L7TDF102
2-ohm total impedance
power handling: 500 watts RMS (1000 watts peak power)

Kicker 51LX850.1
500 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms

You don't technically need a LOC because the amp has high level inputs and signal sensing turn on. But some LOC's like the 47KEYLOC have additional features for more tuning options.

Originally Posted by 1Priest

Great pictures and thank you for sharing them. I have to deaden my rear door on my NX as well and I'm wondering, did adding the sound treatment to the rear door like you did add additional weight and in any way affect it opening and closing? Once again thank you for sharing these pictures my friend.

Originally Posted by tbartman67

I will say, IMO, I didn't like your placement for the sub because what if you want to put a suitcase there that is a little long, and losing the 3-4" means you can't close the back door? Or if you want to lay both seats flat to load a piece of plywood, or stack a ton of boxes? My placement, it's completely out of the way. Here's my install:




I didn't have to tear anything apart, and can return things to the way they were in seconds.

First, I undid the connector that ran the speaker wires to the old sub. I figured the old sub was useless once I got the new one in. The Metra connector then attaches to the speaker wires coming from the front of the car. Here you see the wires from the amp and the Metra adapter in the middle of the photo and the old connector to the old sub dangling just to the left of that:




I cut off the ends of the Metra adapter and stripped a little bare wire, and Kicker told me to connect the (+) to the (+) of both the left and right input, and same for the (-) wires. So here you have the white wire from the Metra going to both the white and grey wires of the Kicker harness, and you have the black wire from the Metra going to both the white/black and grey/black wires on the Kicker harness.




By setting the Kicker HS10 to DC switching (instead of 12V), the signal from the amplifier is enough to turn the sub on and off, and there's no need to use the cigarette lighter or hook anything else up there.

Then for the power - the car battery is right there. The Kicker comes with a short red wire with a fuse that needs to be near the battery, so put the ring terminal on that and connect it to the screw terminal Lexus put on top of the battery already (you'll need an M8-1.25 nut), then connect the other end of the short red wire to the red wire on the Kicker harness (I cut that shorter, but you don't need to):




Then the same for the Kicker harness black power wire to the negative terminal of the battery:



All done! If I need to reverse things, I take two nuts off the battery; I unclip the Metra connector and hook the connector from the amp back up to the old sub, and I'm done. Again, I didn't use any other power source for the switching on/off of the sub, and I didn't use the additional bass control **** that came with the sub. It's all under the floor deck and invisible.