Constantly Warping Front Rotors!!!
I mean shortly after, days or weeks. I'm not sure how the progression of warpage um, progresses, but I have heard things like driving into a puddle with hot brakes can instantly warp them, etc. I try to make my braking, especially when I have a passenger, gradual and not stab at the brakes. But even when I'm alone, I don't slam on the brakes, I don't drive with a foot on the brake, because WTF is that.
To answer the question... I think the latest incident (the discs I'm currently using) started pulsing about 5000 miles in.
To answer the question... I think the latest incident (the discs I'm currently using) started pulsing about 5000 miles in.
How do you go about washing the car? Do you use a run through carwash? I found one time that a specific carwash I was using had some sort of wheel cleaner that was causing buildup on my brake discs and when I stopped using it the issue went away.
Running into water like that won't warp them. As was said before the discs don't actually warp, its pad deposits on the disc from hot spots in the disc.
How do you go about washing the car? Do you use a run through carwash? I found one time that a specific carwash I was using had some sort of wheel cleaner that was causing buildup on my brake discs and when I stopped using it the issue went away.
How do you go about washing the car? Do you use a run through carwash? I found one time that a specific carwash I was using had some sort of wheel cleaner that was causing buildup on my brake discs and when I stopped using it the issue went away.
Bottom line, I'll try a new set of Centric or Power Stop rotors with matching pads and try again. This time I will note exact milage and try to document the moment they start pulsing again.
I will admit, I drive fast on the highway, but I'm like a little old lady on local roads.
After all the trouble you claim to have had I would start by removing everything to the hubs and start with runout there then mount the rotors and repeat on the face of the hat before I put anything new on, how do you know your guy is burning/bedding the pads in properly? Not all but some guys use a trip around the parking lot as a test for operation new brakes.
As to driving through a puddle and seeing lots of steam, maybe you have a wheel bearing helping to heat things up because that's not normal unless you're really driving hard like tracking...who knows, is your mechanic is always giving you smokin hot deals on service ?
Your Honor, I rest my case.....or you put too much faith in your mechanic.
After all the trouble you claim to have had I would start by removing everything to the hubs and start with runout there then mount the rotors and repeat on the face of the hat before I put anything new on, how do you know your guy is burning/bedding the pads in properly? Not all but some guys use a trip around the parking lot as a test for operation new brakes.
As to driving through a puddle and seeing lots of steam, maybe you have a wheel bearing helping to heat things up because that's not normal unless you're really driving hard like tracking...who knows, is your mechanic is always giving you smokin hot deals on service ?
I was just hoping that maybe this was a common issue with a known fix. Maybe I should just get that Volvo....
Larry Service Center is a good shop.
Have you discussed your issues and concerns with Mark Raybon? I can't tell you how to instruct Mark or his technician on how to perform a proper brake job.
"The two common problems that cause pedal pulsation are lateral run-out and disc thickness variation. Lateral run-out is typically caused by run-out from the hub face, wheel bearing, uneven lug nut torque, or a buildup of rust and corrosion between inner and outer surface of the rotor between wheel and hub. Disc thickness variation is most often caused by excess pad transfer, the very thin layer of pad material that bonds to the rotor surface, and uneven wear from an improperly mounted caliper.
Not all shops make sure the hub and wheel surfaces are free from rust and corrosion, nor do they lubricate both sufaces!
Have you discussed your issues and concerns with Mark Raybon? I can't tell you how to instruct Mark or his technician on how to perform a proper brake job.
"The two common problems that cause pedal pulsation are lateral run-out and disc thickness variation. Lateral run-out is typically caused by run-out from the hub face, wheel bearing, uneven lug nut torque, or a buildup of rust and corrosion between inner and outer surface of the rotor between wheel and hub. Disc thickness variation is most often caused by excess pad transfer, the very thin layer of pad material that bonds to the rotor surface, and uneven wear from an improperly mounted caliper.
Not all shops make sure the hub and wheel surfaces are free from rust and corrosion, nor do they lubricate both sufaces!
Smoking hot deals on service? I see what you did there... lol Not at all. He prices fairly, and warranties all his repairs for a year. He replaced two sets of discs and even warranted the labor on the ones I bought myself. I have a great relationship with the service center (it's a legendary Miami Beach mechanic called "Larry's Service Center") They bed them in or tell me I have to do it myself, which after 30 years of taking cars there, I'm OK with. This is the only issue we have ever dealt with on over 7 cars over the years that is unexplainable.
I was just hoping that maybe this was a common issue with a known fix. Maybe I should just get that Volvo....
I was just hoping that maybe this was a common issue with a known fix. Maybe I should just get that Volvo....
@mannye If you keep experiencing warped rotors, you should find out the runout of each rotor next time. It is possible that only one rotor has excessive runout which points to an issue to that side, such as a bad caliper/piston or sticking/worn slide pin(s). If both rotors have similar runout, then both sides may have the same issue, or it could be linked to your driving habits, which I kinda doubt. Also, the hub face needs to be smooth. If there is rust buildup, that little thousandth of an inch buildup can cause runout issues. BTW, a rotor runout tool is only about $50 for the layman mechanic and worth the investment if you do your own brakes.
So wait a second....if it's the hubs, or brake pad material and forgive me for forgetting this... Why do my brakes only pulse when the discs get hot? The first few stops at low speeds on city streets are smooth. Only after a few uses, when I asume they have heated up do they start to pulse....














