Maybe it's me. I am ready to hear that.

But for like 4 sets of rotors now, I get between 12 to 18 months before the dreaded warping come back. Is it me, or does anyone else experience this. I will admit, I drive fast on the highway, but I'm like a little old lady on local roads. ONE time, I totally know what happened as I drove into a puddle in front of my house and the steam coming off the rotors was A LOT. Next day, warped.

I've tried OEM, Centric and whatever brand my mechanic gets... probably Raybestos or similar. They replaced the rotors under warranty at about 4 months. But then those replacements warped in like 6 months, and I tried the Centric. Those lasted the longest, at about 18 months, but now as soon as they heat up a little the "massage" begins. I pretty much know when it happened there too. I was doing about 85-90 and had to slam on the brakes hard. That one incident warped them.

I never had this issue with my LS430 which is still being driven by my daughter and still has silky smooth brakes.

 

Do you drive in puddles with the brakes hot...

 

What are your braking habits? Do you brake ahead of time or is it pretty much at the 11th hour while racing to a red light?

The rotors would have to be extremely hot (more than usual) for it to warp from water from driving over a puddle, otherwise, everyone in FL would be replacing their rotors during hurricane season.

Another factor could be your wheel lug nuts. Are they all EQUALLY torqued to the same proper value? And were they put on in a "star" pattern?

Maybe ride around with your daughter driving and see what she is/isn't doing.

 

I don't slam on at read lights. I DO tend to ride the brake when I see I need to slow down ahead. I will have to see if the shop is torquing them correctly. I have a very good relationship with the guys and we have had the conversation about toque and patterns. I used the LS430 for 10 years before handing it down to her and never had this brake issue. If anything, my driving style has relaxed since then.

It's a mystery. I'm going to replace this current set and rent a torque wrench to make sure they correctly torque the wheels.

 

People that drive(automatic's) with 2 feet usually have brake complaints.

 

Spot on. If the rotors are hot enough to steam when you drive into a puddle you got them really hot somehow. Either your calipers are dragging and not fully releasing, or you are riding the brake and the fronts will get hotter than the rears. I have never had any problem with rotors warping on my 2015 460. In fact, when I did the brakes at 85,000 klms, we left the original rotors on all 4 corners because they were well within spec and only needed a slight touch up on the very outer edge on the lathe.

 

These cars are underbraked, so the rotors get really hot and it causes warping. Warping is actually from pad material being stuck to the rotor in uneven spots, not the actual warping of the rotor. You come to a stop with your foot on the brakes and the rotors are hot and while you sit there with the pads clamping the really hot disc, pad material sticks and you get warping.

Things you can do. After coming to a stop, let the car slide forward a 3-4 inches so that the pad moves along the cooling disc.

What pads were you using with these discs? Did you pair the centric rotors with their ceramic pads? I had that combo and that solved warping for me on the LS460. OEM rotors and pads warped in short order.

 

I thought I was the only one that did this! lol Many moons ago when I was a teen and got my first car, I remember driving home and for whatever reason, I was compelled to touch the rotor and remember getting my finger burned. Ever since, whenever I come to a stop, I would purposely inch forward to somewhat transfer the heat. For my manuals, I would let off the brake pedal completely while leaving in neutral.

 

I also had this problem. But I was told that sitting at a light after a stop and holding the brake on would cause the rorors to warp because it kept them from cooling evenly. So I started stopping early and then every 2 seconds letting the car slide forward a coupe of feet. This helped some, but they still warped so maybe some aftermarket drilled rotors would do it?

 

Not the f sports, at least not mine. I changed rotors and pads on all corners this spring because they've been on the car for 12 yrs and are the original rotors and brembo pads and have been problem free since I got it. The Powerstop Z26 front pads stop better but they're only a few months old now.

 

https://www.hotrod.com/how-to/unders...c-brake-rotors

 

See post # 12 and 14

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/hyb...ance-tips.html

 

Well yeah, the F sport has 380mm brakes. Same as mid level brakes on an A8/7/S-class, the stock car with a freaking 5200lb AWD 460 is using 334mm tiny little brakes that the Germans don't put in a 4050lb car.

 

I'm not sure I want to put any type of lubricant on the rotor or anything that serves the purpose of stopping....

Even if you did put this on the rotor, wouldn't the heat dissipate the anti-seize?

 

I don't think drilled rotors will make a difference. Theres really not any functional benefit to drilled rotors in terms of dissipating heat.

Not talking about the F Sport, talking about the base car.