Okay... now completely latched. I had to use a phillips head screw driver or a point of a pointie nose pliers to get it to completely latch. I know your probably says yeah yeah.. I know but it really took me a while to figure this out. I am sorry if I am boring you.

BP

 

okay.. now some of the good stuff.. what I did was to have the actuator closed and made the switch click.. then clamped it down... This is what I meant by you can set it where you want it. I just used my finger to make it latch so I used the intermediate position to make the lights go off. So that means if someone only partially latches the door then the lights and the door ajar indicator will go off.. oh well.. I just wanted to make sure that the lights did come on when the door was open. This is the epoxy that I used. It has worked very well for over a week now.

At this point I was panicing. I came inside and got myself all worked up. I really was hoping for a solution to already be posted (what was I thinking). I bumped a few post and really did not accomplished anything but caused me and Dave some issues. He handled it like a pro. I really quit taking pictures after this so there are some details that are left out..... sorry. If you want to know a detail please let me know.

I bought the switches a few years ago for robot project from GBMicro...

BP

 

And another pic of the cherry switch that I used... sorry to leave this out...

I am not sure where to buy this switch... but like I said I got it from BG micro

 

I found the trick is to reach up inside and activate the latch where the the outside door handle presses down on it. This will give you enough clearance to pull the latch assembly down.

 

My top tip:

I replaced one of the rear motors yesterday and my top tip is to help remove the assembly out of the door is to also simulate what the door-open inner handle does by pulling on the cable (white collar).

 

Wooohoooo! I just replaced the motor in my driver's door actuator. Spent less than $2 to repair.

Before I repaired the actuator, I attempted to program a new key fob/remote. One thing I noticed is that you can't program the remote yourself if one of your actuators are dead, unless you manually lock/unlock the door at the same time you are hitting the switch for the programming AND when the system cycles the locks for confirmation.

 

I have a 98 GS400. I programmed three key fobs with bad door lock actuators only by using the manual button.

BP

 

you can do it without your locks workin....
i had none, of my locks workin'///....and i did programeed the key to it too..

 

Are you guys talking about the key itself or the remote, cause I was talking about the remote. I couldn't program it just by cycling the locks manually. I have a 2000 GS 300 BTW

 

By key fob I mean REMOTE. The key is enabler chip is easy and you do not use the door locks for that. The remote needs to be programmed by using the door locks.

Probably the deal is you never felt the door lock actuate which meant it was time to do something else.

Here are the directions that I used to program mine when I did my key fobs. This is a link back to another thread.

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...ramming+remote

If someone has the real directions from Toyota please post them here. I know we are diverting from the Door lock actuator but oh well...

BP

 

Well.. an update.. The actuator that I replaced the motor on quit working. I could hear the motor turning but it did not lock/unlock.

Well I got lazy when I changed the motor and I used the coupling that I showed the torch on back earlier in the thread. The shaft was spinning inside the coupling. So do not heat it up just drive it off with a drill bit like we have shown.

During the troubleshooting phase I really screwed up. I had the cover off and tried to lock / unlock with the remote and the gear part came flying out at me.. I have three pieces all come off at the same time.. the spring the ring gear and another little plastic piece. I was like you big dummy why did you do that. Well once you see this you will not forget it. Don't be scared of it as it is easy to get back together. It would not hurt to put a little grease in there as well.

This is a pic of the coupling. I could easily move this with my fingers..

BP

 

This is with the coupling pushed in.. It is a good thing I replaced my front actuators so I had a spare coupling. I did put a dab of super glue on it though.

BP

 

This is of the inside of the actuator. The motor is out. Look at the big ring gear. I am going to show you what is behind it.

BP

 

The dark thing in there is a spring.. If you look to the right of the center shaft you will see a semi rectangular shaped piece of white plastic, it will come off too..

BP

 

And another.. The spring is just held slightly open by the plastic piece. The gear has a notch that hits the spring which returns the gear to a "home" position.


BP