Door Lock Acutuators DIY ???
05-01-12, 11:41 PM
#811
Thanks a lot. I tried doing that as well lifting the handle while trying to yank it out but no dice. Probably cause I was doing it by myself, i'll ask the girlfriend next time to help me out.
^ One time I was cleaning the glue off headlights while doing a retrofit with a xacto knife.. Hoho next then i know the blade is halfway through my thumb, cant feel it or move it.
Never pull towards always push away from body!
^ One time I was cleaning the glue off headlights while doing a retrofit with a xacto knife.. Hoho next then i know the blade is halfway through my thumb, cant feel it or move it.
Never pull towards always push away from body!
05-02-12, 11:55 AM
#812
Pole Position
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: OR
Posts: 238
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thank you for the write up and the youtube video. I just finished replacing the front passenger door motor.
As people have said before, you don't need to remove the window as long as you leave it rolled up all the way.
I used a gear puller as well available at any hobby store or amazon. You don't need to, but it was much simpler and relatively cheap enough (especially if you end up having to do this again later on).
Unfortunately, my housing didn't hold up too well. I did learn that if you pry the plastic from inside out, it would break the glue easier than trying to go from outside in. That of course means getting in first and unfortunately most likely cracking or breaking off a piece. I simply superglued it back together afterwards. I was surprised that the housing has a channel and that the plastic was so soft.
Good luck!
As people have said before, you don't need to remove the window as long as you leave it rolled up all the way.
I used a gear puller as well available at any hobby store or amazon. You don't need to, but it was much simpler and relatively cheap enough (especially if you end up having to do this again later on).
Unfortunately, my housing didn't hold up too well. I did learn that if you pry the plastic from inside out, it would break the glue easier than trying to go from outside in. That of course means getting in first and unfortunately most likely cracking or breaking off a piece. I simply superglued it back together afterwards. I was surprised that the housing has a channel and that the plastic was so soft.
Good luck!
05-02-12, 01:34 PM
#813
How did you pry the plastic from the inside out? what part did you break to get to the inside to pry it open?
Thank you for the write up and the youtube video. I just finished replacing the front passenger door motor.
As people have said before, you don't need to remove the window as long as you leave it rolled up all the way.
I used a gear puller as well available at any hobby store or amazon. You don't need to, but it was much simpler and relatively cheap enough (especially if you end up having to do this again later on).
Unfortunately, my housing didn't hold up too well. I did learn that if you pry the plastic from inside out, it would break the glue easier than trying to go from outside in. That of course means getting in first and unfortunately most likely cracking or breaking off a piece. I simply superglued it back together afterwards. I was surprised that the housing has a channel and that the plastic was so soft.
Good luck!
As people have said before, you don't need to remove the window as long as you leave it rolled up all the way.
I used a gear puller as well available at any hobby store or amazon. You don't need to, but it was much simpler and relatively cheap enough (especially if you end up having to do this again later on).
Unfortunately, my housing didn't hold up too well. I did learn that if you pry the plastic from inside out, it would break the glue easier than trying to go from outside in. That of course means getting in first and unfortunately most likely cracking or breaking off a piece. I simply superglued it back together afterwards. I was surprised that the housing has a channel and that the plastic was so soft.
Good luck!
05-03-12, 12:53 AM
#814
Pole Position
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: OR
Posts: 238
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
If I were to do it again, I would drill a small hole on the bottom side of the housing when installed in the door. Then use a small (ie. electronics/eyeglass) screwdriver to slide into the case and pry the cap upwards while sliding it sideways (outwards). Afterwards, just tape or plug the hole with whatever weather resistant stuff you have lying around.
There's no telling how strong your plastic housing or the glue is. That's why I said good luck!
There's no telling how strong your plastic housing or the glue is. That's why I said good luck!
05-03-12, 10:51 PM
#815
If I were to do it again, I would drill a small hole on the bottom side of the housing when installed in the door. Then use a small (ie. electronics/eyeglass) screwdriver to slide into the case and pry the cap upwards while sliding it sideways (outwards). Afterwards, just tape or plug the hole with whatever weather resistant stuff you have lying around.
There's no telling how strong your plastic housing or the glue is. That's why I said good luck!
There's no telling how strong your plastic housing or the glue is. That's why I said good luck!
. hope i dont have to go back in there.
05-07-12, 06:36 AM
#816
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: May 2010
Location: TX
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The best way for me to remove the plastic top from the actuator housing was with a Dremel. While a little more plastic was removed, it really didn't matter since I used epoxy all around the edges after I replaced the motor. This approached worked perfectly for all four motor replacements - front/rears! Just don't apply too much epoxy where it could get inside the housing and glue the gears - use a toothpick and spread evenly. Good luck.
05-16-12, 08:17 AM
#817
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: wi
Posts: 32
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I would love theae pics.
I have edited this because there has been several questions about finding these motors on EBAY. The seller's name is tag16c and if you are looking for the motors a good place to start your search is "Mabuchi" the part number that we have been using FC 280PT-22125 If you go to Mabuchi website you can also see there are several other that will work but they want you buy quantities that are high, like 10K, there only like 30 cents a piece. I have attached a picture from tag16c 's auction I do not think he would mind. When I look for the auction I start by typing in Mabuchi then look for that picture below that I posted. I hope this helps. I know that this DIY takes a lot of different turns and it can be hard to follow. I have about 10 motors as spares... I hope this helps.
I did my drivers side door lock actuator today. I took several pics. Would anyone be interested in a small write up with several pics? I would hate to invest time in a topic no one would be interested in. Any comments. Do you guys wanna see my pics? I have never done a DIY but I did it myself and it was not toooooo bad. Feedback will help motivate me. Thanks, B
I did my drivers side door lock actuator today. I took several pics. Would anyone be interested in a small write up with several pics? I would hate to invest time in a topic no one would be interested in. Any comments. Do you guys wanna see my pics? I have never done a DIY but I did it myself and it was not toooooo bad. Feedback will help motivate me. Thanks, B
05-16-12, 08:25 PM
#819
Driver School Candidate
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Washington
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Does anybody know if the lock motor assembly's are the same for the fron and rear doors? The reason that i ask is that Sewell has just the lock motors available. I replaced my rear doors already, but you cant buy them only for the fronts. FYI the motors are only $85 from sewell. Not as cheap as just the motors, but if you did like i did and destroyed the case trying to replace the motor its a much better alternative to the whole assembly
05-17-12, 07:15 PM
#820
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 20
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Well I took apart the actuator, took out the little motor and disassembled the motor.
There was a lot of crud inside of the motor from the brushes’ wearing down. Cleaned it up with compressed air, lightly sanded the contacts to and put everything back together. Door lock works like new with 0 issues.
There was a lot of crud inside of the motor from the brushes’ wearing down. Cleaned it up with compressed air, lightly sanded the contacts to and put everything back together. Door lock works like new with 0 issues.
05-17-12, 11:14 PM
#821
anyone have a loud locking and unlocking sound from the mechanism after replacing. Im guessing its just cuz the motor is new and uber powerful. Also have had some issues with the key fob not working after the motor replacement. wondering if this is a common thing?
05-21-12, 06:03 AM
#822
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: wi
Posts: 32
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Sweet
Well I took apart the actuator, took out the little motor and disassembled the motor.
There was a lot of crud inside of the motor from the brushes’ wearing down. Cleaned it up with compressed air, lightly sanded the contacts to and put everything back together. Door lock works like new with 0 issues.
There was a lot of crud inside of the motor from the brushes’ wearing down. Cleaned it up with compressed air, lightly sanded the contacts to and put everything back together. Door lock works like new with 0 issues.
05-29-12, 10:53 AM
#823
Hey guys, I just did my passenger front door, and I had the same issues as most on this thread:
1.) Plastic housing wass IMPOSSIBLE to take apart without doing some kind of damage.
Solution: TAKE YOUR TIME. You need to reseal the two halves to prevent the gear lube from leaking out (and to prevent the motor from moving around), so the more you keep in tact the better. I found it was easiest to use an xacto knife on the seam next to the motor itself. Scrape away enough to be able to get a small flathead screwdriver in, and gently pry the two halves. As the two halves start to split, slowly work the screwdriver around until you have both halves apart. You might need to the whole xacto/screwdriver thing on the opposite side because I did. Sorry I don't have any pics of this. If I was to do it all over again, i'd probably use this method or try my hands at the dremel like another member did.
2.) Removing the coupler from the motor - Mine was stuck and would not come out with a vise/pliers. Not wanting to crack the coupler like some have done, I ponied up the $13 to buy this:
http://www.hobbypeople.net/index.php...r-pinions.html
My location had two size ranges to pick from, and I went with the smallest of the two (1mm-2.5mm I think, kit comes with 3 dowels or whatever you call them). This works like a mini gear puller; just make sure to take your time to line everything up right before you starting cranking, or else you might bend the dowel.
I hope this helps the next person, because its so nice not having to run to the other side of the car to manually lock it.
Ryan
1.) Plastic housing wass IMPOSSIBLE to take apart without doing some kind of damage.
Solution: TAKE YOUR TIME. You need to reseal the two halves to prevent the gear lube from leaking out (and to prevent the motor from moving around), so the more you keep in tact the better. I found it was easiest to use an xacto knife on the seam next to the motor itself. Scrape away enough to be able to get a small flathead screwdriver in, and gently pry the two halves. As the two halves start to split, slowly work the screwdriver around until you have both halves apart. You might need to the whole xacto/screwdriver thing on the opposite side because I did. Sorry I don't have any pics of this. If I was to do it all over again, i'd probably use this method or try my hands at the dremel like another member did.
2.) Removing the coupler from the motor - Mine was stuck and would not come out with a vise/pliers. Not wanting to crack the coupler like some have done, I ponied up the $13 to buy this:
http://www.hobbypeople.net/index.php...r-pinions.html
My location had two size ranges to pick from, and I went with the smallest of the two (1mm-2.5mm I think, kit comes with 3 dowels or whatever you call them). This works like a mini gear puller; just make sure to take your time to line everything up right before you starting cranking, or else you might bend the dowel.
I hope this helps the next person, because its so nice not having to run to the other side of the car to manually lock it.
Ryan
06-02-12, 08:02 AM
#824
Rookie
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: va
Posts: 51
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hey did anyone have a hard time removing the whole actuator assembly out of the door?
I removed the 3 T30 screws and trying to remove the assembly but it seems like the vertical roller bar is in the way. Did you have to take out the vertical roller bar for the windows?
I removed the 3 T30 screws and trying to remove the assembly but it seems like the vertical roller bar is in the way. Did you have to take out the vertical roller bar for the windows?