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The old header wrap came loose on my last track day and caused a bit of over heating issues.
Although I’m sure my bent up cooler fins doesn’t help at all...
Had to dismantle the whole lower sub frame again and get them out so I could ceramic coating, then wrap again before reinstallation.
It’s a tad bit out of my pay grade so I had to solicit my mechanic friend to help me.
Got a track day at NCM coming up in 2 weeks so I will know if indeed it was the header wrap failure that caused the over heating or may be I just ran the car too hard in hot weather (95 degree day).
Previous to this last track day, I’ve only have had a few track days with the super charger installed, and I had issues with the car on those days so I didn’t run the car hard the entire day, thus I’m unsure whether the car just runs way hotter with the blower and the oem coolers can’t handle all the extra heat...
Previous to this last track day, I’ve only have had a few track days with the super charger installed, and I had issues with the car on those days so I didn’t run the car hard the entire day, thus I’m unsure whether the car just runs way hotter with the blower and the oem coolers can’t handle all the extra heat...
Yeah, more power is more heat. Not sure how much overhead the OEM coolers have. What was the range of temps for oil and water before supercharger? Trans temp ok?
Wow! that cerakote turned out pretty good!! Did you coat inside too?
No I didn’t. Obviously the openings got some spray but not sure how you would coat the inside? I’ve heard peeps saying headers are coated inside and out but never realized how they did it other than if it was submersed into a bath of some sort?
Originally Posted by Teutonic
Yeah, more power is more heat. Not sure how much overhead the OEM coolers have. What was the range of temps for oil and water before supercharger? Trans temp ok?
Both the motor oil and coolant temp were almost in the red. I had to pit in multiple sessions to keep car from over heating. The power was way down when car was hot.
Not sure about tranny fluid temp.
Originally Posted by JT2MA71
Great job on the cerakote and wrap! Have you looked into swaintech white lightning ceramic coat?
Thanks for the compliment. The wrap was a major pita!!!
I did use DEI wrap this time vs the generic wrap I got from RR last time. Not sure what brand that was.
I also used safety wire to secure this time vs using the metal zip ties and hose clamps.
Hopefully I won’t have to redo for a long time....
I know your Novel are sprayed with Swaintech. I just used the tried and true. Plus it was easy to source.
Started putting seats in and after that the harness install.
For anyone that’s going to do seat swaps, I’ll say you’re welcome now.
The seat brackets were a pain to source correctly (from Sparco-Planted).
I was told ISF ones fit but no one had em.
Was told IS350/250 ones fit ISF. No one had em neither.
Then was told by an IS300 guy that the IS350 ones fit IS300.
Well they don’t...
After some careful measuring and talking to the Planted guy, we figured out that Rcf takes the late model IS350/250 brackets, BUT one side is for auto and other side for a manual.
The model numbers are in the pic.
oh my god. You’re a hero. Doing a seat swap and been panicking about brackets lol.
as far as the seatbelt tensioner and airbag light and weight sensor, you figure anything out?
sorry slow reply. Hope you had it figured out. If so, pls post up.
The seat belts are easy to trick using resistors.
The occupancy sensor is a different story.
I personally haven’t had the energy nor time to mess with it.
So yes...I have a big yellow triangle on my dash due to that.
Try pinging Ron. Think he either dug it out of the seat or figured out a way to bypass.
sorry slow reply. Hope you had it figured out. If so, pls post up.
The seat belts are easy to trick using resistors.
The occupancy sensor is a different story.
I personally haven’t had the energy nor time to mess with it.
So yes...I have a big yellow triangle on my dash due to that.
Try pinging Ron. Think he either dug it out of the seat or figured out a way to bypass.
i tricked the airbags with resistors. I figured out if you bridge the occupancy sensor that takes care of that. The only thing i have left are appenrrly there are secondary occupancy sensors for both the driver and passenger side, currently, they’re just all bridged and i too have the yellow triangle.
Haven’t modded the car in a while. Mostly been tracking and sitting.
Last time at track, car ran way too rich and shot a fire ball out the right rear exhaust...
since then I contacted Rafi to make adjustments to the tune to lean it out.
A new tune has been uploaded but testing with full load at wot is not that possible on public roads since I promised years ago to myself that I wouldn’t drive wreckless anymore. High speed stuff stays on track only.
Did a few short quick pulls and it seems leaner but won’t really know till next track day.
Thanks to Simon for quick response to ship the Tactrix out the next day after my request.
Thanks to Rafi for looking at my upload on a Sunday!
Great follow through. Much appreciated RR racing.
I swapped battery recently too to the Anti-gravity H6R 40ah one.
It’s meant to be a full size oem replacement vs the smaller race battery that RR sells.
So far so good. Time will tell.
Cool little blue tooth app from them to check battery voltage too. Better than the one I had before from Ctek.
Started with all black OMP seats.
Had the center inserts covered in red Alcantara.
Greetings, what's involved in clearing the airbag light? I bought a 2.2 Ohm fodder and it didn't work. Is there a procedure to clear the light if it's already on?
