clynnh1230

Ok so I got some Megan EZ streets to go on my is250 awd. I started with the rear, the right side was pretty straight forward. On the left side the bolt that holds the strut to the LCA is completely seized, unlike any other bolt I've ever wrestled with. It will turn, but will not budge. I've tride many things including air chizle, hammer/punch, and many others.

I figured ok, can't get that bolt out for anything, so I'll just remove the LCA and take it all out as an assembly, then take it to work where we have vices and torches and ******. But now, I can't get the bolt out on the rear of the LCA!! I got the nut off no problem, but the bolt will not come out, pretty much the same way the other one won't. I've beat on it and beat on it and just cannot get it to move. It's like it's seized on the bushing or something too. I took out the metal bar that blocks access to the bolt.

Now I'm completely stuck and have no idea what to try next. Anyone have any suggestions?

Toxicxk23

Try putting a jack underneath your LCA and raising it up a little to take some strain off the bolt

clynnh1230

There is no strain on the bolt, it's seized on the bushing. I have the strut completely disconnected from everything else.

I don't see this as an issue a forum will be able to solve. It's gonna take a torch and brute strength.

Gville350

iTrader: (10)

Well, if it's a bad shock and you don't plan to re-use it...you can hack off the end attached to the bolt with a hack saw and take it to the bolt too. Since you've got a replacement shock (Megan), you've got that; but of course you'll need a new LCA bolt.

Sounds like a similar thing that happens with older Honda models I've dealt with. LCA bolt through the LCA/shock gets permanently rusted to the shock itself and when the bolt does turn, you are actually turning the bad rubber bushing surrounding the shock bolt hole.

GL!

clynnh1230

I appreciate your reply, and yea it's definitely turning the rubber bushing. I guess I'm gonna try to cut the bolt and try and get it out that way, because the end of the bolt opposite the head is pretty much flush with the LCA. I'll just grind away at it so I can get it out. This suuuuuuucks.

clynnh1230

Finally got that stupid strut off! I first used a hack saw to cut the head off as close to the LCA as possible, then used an air grinder and finally a Dremmel with diamond tipped bits on both sides to get this stupid thing off. Worked on it over 4 separate days! I'm picking up a replacement bolt at the Lexus dealer so I can get on with the install after work today. I'm terrified that I might run into a similar issue up front.

Gville350

iTrader: (10)

Use anti-seize next time.

clynnh1230

Dang it! Too late! EZ's finally on lol. I put the strut in a ginormous Arbor Press and basically had to hold on and jump to get that bolt out. Crazy!

Gville350

iTrader: (10)

Glad you got them on at least!

1herm4

iTrader: (1)

Or while the nut is still on, tap the nut to help push the bolt out.

Bkhectic

Sorry for bringing this back up from the dead but I'm having the same issues. I got my h&r sport spring and the very next day I took it to a replace to get it installed. Same problem and the guy didn't even want to put the extra work into it all he kept saying is anyway we do it something is gonna go wrong u might just want to buy next shocks or struts whatever goes in the rear. Basically they wanted to just cut it and and leave it like that so me buying new parts was the easy way out for this trash mechanic. I told them put my wheels back on and next Monday I'm trying a new guy that was highly recommended so we'll see what happens. Any extra tips to use in the process so I can let this new guy know in case?

Nixcision

iTrader: (3)

I had this same problem a month ago when I installed my BC coils and Figs LCA's. The bolt connecting the strut to the LCA on my driver side rear was a massive PITA. I spent 3 days on this one bolt, while the other three corners took literally no longer than 2 hours total (and I was taking my time).

I used a jack underneath the LCA to relieve whatever pressure might exist from the spring up top. I could get my bolt out about half way and then it would spin, but not come out. If the jack by itself does not work, take it out from under the LCA, and skip this bolt and remove all the others that need to be taken out so the strut and LCA lay on the ground.

Here, I used a piece of metal to wedge in between the LCA and the head of the bolt, applyin pressure as if to pry it out, and kept turning with my socket wrench on the head while applying pressure with the piece of metal.

Thats how I got mine out!

Nixcision

iTrader: (3)

Your bolt may not be "siezed", but the bolt may be at a slight angle because its going thru both the strut and LCA, which are under different pressures and orientations, preventing it from coming out freely.... You just have to line up the holes using a jack under the LCA, raising and lowering until turning the bolt becomes easier and easier. Then try the metal wedge trick here or as said above if all else fails. (Its not a proven solution, but it worked for me in my time of need lol)
Just incase: your car should still be on jack stands, but you'd be using the manual jack from your trunk to move the LCA and strut up and down.

professorm

I had this problem in my 08 GS 350 yesterday replacing my rear struts. Nothing I did would turn the bolt, and when it finally turned, the bushing was turning inside the struts and only very slowly.

Today, I called the shop and they said $500. i had everything off except this one stupid bolt through the shock. I will attempt cutting it off now.

MrHarris

iTrader: (1)

that’s essentially extortion they’re trying to do to you. That sucks….