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I got the passenger side done but the drive side strut rod bushing end is stuck on bolt -- would not rotate and bolt would not come out. I've been pounding the bolt out but will not budge. I believe the bolt is seized / rusted on the strut rod inner metal sleeve.
Spray Kroil on it or Pblaster or what ever it is called. A good air hammer maybe needed to pound it out, plan on replacing it with a new one. Even an impact wrench may loosen it.
Spray Kroil on it or Pblaster or what ever it is called. A good air hammer maybe needed to pound it out, plan on replacing it with a new one. Even an impact wrench may loosen it.
Already soaked it with PBlaster. Will try the air hammer also. Is the cam bolt still available from the dealer? Part #? How do you suggest using the impact wrench ?
May need to use a big pry bar to lever the strut rod a bit straight then try pounding the bolt out.
Sometimes, depending on how it's twisted, carefully jacking up the entire upright a bit up (so it's closer to ride height orientation) will help reallign everything to take the bolt out. Be very careful when doing this as you're compressing the suspension and can upset it on the jack stands if you do it too much.
May need to use a big pry bar to lever the strut rod a bit straight then try pounding the bolt out.
Sometimes, depending on how it's twisted, carefully jacking up the entire upright a bit up (so it's closer to ride height orientation) will help reallign everything to take the bolt out. Be very careful when doing this as you're compressing the suspension and can upset it on the jack stands if you do it too much.
I have the strut rod off the lower control arm so it's just hanging on the bushing side so there's no tension on the rod at all. I've been pounding it, added heat with no luck.
I'm thinking at this point that cutting the bolt might be the only option. What's the most effective way of cutting the bolt off? These bolts might be grade 10 so a sawzall might not work. Any ideas? Acetylene torch?
PureDrifter -- would you happen to have the part number of for the bolt? I don't have a service manual. Thank you.
Impact wrench? Just like anyother bolt or nut. The eccentric will just move like it normally should. All you need to do is get it to spin and break the corrosion holding it then pound it out.
If you have to cut it I'd try a small abrasive cut off tool if it will fit in there. I don't like to use a torch on car stuff unless its the only way.
Finally got the bolt out ............. I removed the big metal piece circled in red below and pounded the bolt out. I just need to see if I can salvage the bolt since i did some damage to it, if not I will just buy another one.
I tried the impact wrench, air hammer, heat, lots of PBlaster none of those worked. Pounding the bolt in an open area was the ticket.
Finally got the bolt out ............. I removed the big metal piece circled in red below and pounded the bolt out. I just need to see if I can salvage the bolt since i did some damage to it, if not I will just buy another one.
I tried the impact wrench, air hammer, heat, lots of PBlaster none of those worked. Pounding the bolt in an open area was the ticket.
he hasn't had a chance to get it in yet I would guess.
The strut rods are the single most common cause of front end clunks in LS400s.
I did not have the time to finish it last night. Will try to put everything back together today after work. I also have the transmission mount to install as well and do an oil change.
Does anybody know the torque value of the bolts for the big metal piece I removed (circled in red above) ? Sorry I don't have the service manual and I don't even know the actual part name of that big piece.
Does the sway bar go through this bracket? Does it have 4 fasteners? If I'm looking at the right thing in the manual the bolts are tightened to 53 ft/lb.
Does the sway bar go through this bracket? Does it have 4 fasteners? If I'm looking at the right thing in the manual the bolts are tightened to 53 ft/lb.