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Seized LCA Bolt

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Old Apr 23, 2017 | 11:48 AM
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Default Seized LCA Bolt

How do I get this out? I have the nut off. It appears that the bolt is seized in the strut bottom. I have tried to rest the lca on some 2x4s and sledge the other side of the bolt but it wont budge. Should I try to torch it?

Thanks in advance



Last edited by prosem; Apr 23, 2017 at 11:52 AM.
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Old Apr 23, 2017 | 12:54 PM
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Let it soak then you could try an impact gun . Heating it too much might mess the bushing up.
spray it on the thread side of the bolt .
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Old Apr 23, 2017 | 02:13 PM
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Soak with penetrating spray then Hammer wiyh a punch to knock that bolt out.
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Old Apr 23, 2017 | 04:19 PM
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this can be a sh#t to get out it is rusted to the bush collar on the shock plenty of WD40 are you reusing the shock try pressing it out with a press or use your bench vice.(with a larger socket than the bolt head 2 people helps)
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Old Apr 23, 2017 | 06:10 PM
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Put it in a press. Nothing else will put the kind of pressure you need to move this thing. Anything less is just sex with a condom.
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Old Apr 23, 2017 | 06:36 PM
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thanks for the replies. Yeah I have had it soaking in PB blaster all day and have tried an impact gun with no go. I am going to drop it off at a muffler shop tomorrow to have them get the bolt out. I have ruined the threads on the other side so need to pick one up at the dealer. Something always goes wrong...
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Old Apr 23, 2017 | 07:14 PM
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You live in the rust belt. It is standard for where you live. I actively chose not to live there as my experience as a boy in Eastern Iowa made me confident I never wanted to suffer these kinds of issues. I will never own quality hardware in places where corrosion is a constant enemy to be kept at bay with chemicals and waxes.

Supra has no underside corrosion. It has never lived in snow/salt. I wouldn't have it any other way.
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Old Apr 23, 2017 | 07:36 PM
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Originally Posted by lobuxracer
You live in the rust belt. It is standard for where you live. I actively chose not to live there as my experience as a boy in Eastern Iowa made me confident I never wanted to suffer these kinds of issues. I will never own quality hardware in places where corrosion is a constant enemy to be kept at bay with chemicals and waxes.

Supra has no underside corrosion. It has never lived in snow/salt. I wouldn't have it any other way.
Yeah, I just need to deal with it. I am surprised how little rust my F has, especially with my high miles, compared to other cars I have owned and worked on. This is the only bolt that gave me trouble.
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Old Apr 24, 2017 | 08:30 AM
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Quick update. I took this to my local muffler shop and they tried to press it out with no luck and had to cut the bolt off. Cost me 20$ and then a new bolt is $6.

I will finally be putting the car back together tonight!


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Old Apr 24, 2017 | 10:03 AM
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Paint some anti-seize on the bolt shank before you put it back together. At least you'll have a small chance against this happening again.
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Old Apr 24, 2017 | 01:17 PM
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Yeah, I have been anti-seizing everything. Thanks for the tip, lobuxracer.

Matt
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Old Apr 24, 2017 | 07:01 PM
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Dang Matt. I'm working on a 4runner at the moment with the same issue but front lower control arm cam bolts. that car makes your problem look like an easy job. after torching, soaking in Kroil oil, liquid wrench and PB lblaster, breaking every nice socket and breaker bar i have...... i had to buy 2 new cam bolts and eccentric washers. it seem like its a common problem and the cam bolts are made of very high grade cold steel. going to have to use a Sawzall and carbine blades tomorrow and cut off the bolts which should take a long time from what i read. i wish i had your bolts, looks much easier to cut. I feel your pain. wish me luck tomorrow.
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Old Apr 25, 2017 | 05:39 AM
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Originally Posted by ISFPOWER
Dang Matt. I'm working on a 4runner at the moment with the same issue but front lower control arm cam bolts. that car makes your problem look like an easy job. after torching, soaking in Kroil oil, liquid wrench and PB lblaster, breaking every nice socket and breaker bar i have...... i had to buy 2 new cam bolts and eccentric washers. it seem like its a common problem and the cam bolts are made of very high grade cold steel. going to have to use a Sawzall and carbine blades tomorrow and cut off the bolts which should take a long time from what i read. i wish i had your bolts, looks much easier to cut. I feel your pain. wish me luck tomorrow.
I had a similar issue with the lower inner mounting bolts on my 98 GS400. I found it easier to drop and remove the whole k-frame with seized arm in place in order to get good access with my cutting tools. I tried both a sawzall and an angle grinder to finally cut the bolt ends off and remove the arm from the k-frame. The arms had to be replaced because there is virtually no way to remove the seized remains of the bolt. Looked similar to Prosem's picture of his shock except mine was through the arm bushing.

I did put liberal amounts of anti-seize when installing the new bolts. Time will tell if it helps any. My car gets extreme doses of Canadian winters...
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Old Apr 25, 2017 | 07:15 AM
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Originally Posted by ISFPOWER
Dang Matt. I'm working on a 4runner at the moment with the same issue but front lower control arm cam bolts. that car makes your problem look like an easy job. after torching, soaking in Kroil oil, liquid wrench and PB lblaster, breaking every nice socket and breaker bar i have...... i had to buy 2 new cam bolts and eccentric washers. it seem like its a common problem and the cam bolts are made of very high grade cold steel. going to have to use a Sawzall and carbine blades tomorrow and cut off the bolts which should take a long time from what i read. i wish i had your bolts, looks much easier to cut. I feel your pain. wish me luck tomorrow.
Wow. Sounds like a PITA. The older the car the worse it gets. Thankfully mine wasnt too bad and I was able to get the entire LCA off. If the inner LCA bolt wouldnt have come off I would have been screwed and had to cut the bolt off in my garage. It is crazy how seized these can get. All of the Hondas I have worked on ended up with seized lower rear bolts and LCAs.

As advice for any new owners of older vehicles that plan to do suspension work I would spray penetrating oil on the bolts regularly a week before you plan to work on it. This may help get these potentially seized parts loose.

Matt
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Old Apr 25, 2017 | 07:20 AM
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Originally Posted by newgsman
I had a similar issue with the lower inner mounting bolts on my 98 GS400. I found it easier to drop and remove the whole k-frame with seized arm in place in order to get good access with my cutting tools. I tried both a sawzall and an angle grinder to finally cut the bolt ends off and remove the arm from the k-frame. The arms had to be replaced because there is virtually no way to remove the seized remains of the bolt. Looked similar to Prosem's picture of his shock except mine was through the arm bushing.

I did put liberal amounts of anti-seize when installing the new bolts. Time will tell if it helps any. My car gets extreme doses of Canadian winters...
I hear what you are saying. It is probably best to regularly apply anti seize to these bolts. I was surprised how good of condition the bolt for the LCA to the hub was in. I guess it does not get as much exposure to the elements or perhaps is sealed a little tighter than the strut bolt.

Matt
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