Lower Ctrl Arm No2 bolt stuck wtf
Lower Ctrl Arm No2 bolt stuck wtf
So I got new tension rods (lower control arm no2 in toyota speak) and tried to install them last weekend. Put car on jackstands, took brace off, etc.
Well the two bolts that goes into the lower arm, they are friggin stuck
1) PB blasted them....waited 30 mins, nothing
2) Torched them, then PB blasted again....nothing
this is with a fairly powerful impact gun btw. The one nut where the bushing is came off easily with an impact gun.
If anyone knows a way of doing this without having to break the bolt, please let me know.
kthxbai.
Well the two bolts that goes into the lower arm, they are friggin stuck
1) PB blasted them....waited 30 mins, nothing
2) Torched them, then PB blasted again....nothing
this is with a fairly powerful impact gun btw. The one nut where the bushing is came off easily with an impact gun.
If anyone knows a way of doing this without having to break the bolt, please let me know.
kthxbai.
What gun do you have that can't take off that bolt? When I replaced my caster arm, all the bolts came out like nothing using an impact.
I'm on a tool forum and most guys seem to have great luck with 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF for the toughest stuff.
I'm on a tool forum and most guys seem to have great luck with 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF for the toughest stuff.
I've been snapping bolts left and right on this car since its been in the midwest car it's entire life. And I didn't have the guts to use my cheater bar since it would have been stuck at my friends garage
. 50/50 mix of Acetone and ATF huh? Never tried it...but I think I will after I get some replacement bolts juuuuuust in case.
power steering fluid is often substituted with ATF. They're both similar for most cars.
I tend not to use the mixture because it'll eat paint and rubber if you're not careful with it, but I find it to be better than PB blaster on rusted bolts/nuts. But you may run into a problem because gravity is working against you so most penetrating oil won't climb itself up through the threads.
I'd be chicken to use a breaker bar on a rusted bolts that practically holds one part of your suspension together. Not sure what else you can do. Good luck
I tend not to use the mixture because it'll eat paint and rubber if you're not careful with it, but I find it to be better than PB blaster on rusted bolts/nuts. But you may run into a problem because gravity is working against you so most penetrating oil won't climb itself up through the threads.
I'd be chicken to use a breaker bar on a rusted bolts that practically holds one part of your suspension together. Not sure what else you can do. Good luck
power steering fluid is often substituted with ATF. They're both similar for most cars.
I tend not to use the mixture because it'll eat paint and rubber if you're not careful with it, but I find it to be better than PB blaster on rusted bolts/nuts. But you may run into a problem because gravity is working against you so most penetrating oil won't climb itself up through the threads.
I'd be chicken to use a breaker bar on a rusted bolts that practically holds one part of your suspension together. Not sure what else you can do. Good luck
I tend not to use the mixture because it'll eat paint and rubber if you're not careful with it, but I find it to be better than PB blaster on rusted bolts/nuts. But you may run into a problem because gravity is working against you so most penetrating oil won't climb itself up through the threads.
I'd be chicken to use a breaker bar on a rusted bolts that practically holds one part of your suspension together. Not sure what else you can do. Good luck
push comes to shove, I'll break those ****ers off.. cranked up that sucker, still no go .i really don't like to use a hammer or a mallet on a suspension considering how much pressure it might put onto something it was never meant to absorb impact from.
High setting on a weak gun ain't the same as low power on a strong gun
Be careful though. You may break off the head but the threaded part may still be stuck inside. Let's just hope that doesn't happen.
Be careful though. You may break off the head but the threaded part may still be stuck inside. Let's just hope that doesn't happen.
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I was going to say use the breaker and go for it as you can just order the 2 bolts separately . Although by looking at it you would never be able to tell it is removable.
What kind of torch are you using propane or oxy/acet ?
It was probably removed before and they cross threaded them as i have seen that done by a shop on another GS caster bolt. Good thing you got new studs for them.
What kind of torch are you using propane or oxy/acet ?
It was probably removed before and they cross threaded them as i have seen that done by a shop on another GS caster bolt. Good thing you got new studs for them.
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