The rear bolt on a front arm. I am putting in Prothane bushings so destroying the sleeve is not an option. Otherwise I'd just cut the stupid thing off.

I have tried heating up the bolt, hammering and PB Blaster with no luck so far. I have yet to try the air hammer, I'd like to save the bolt. I have an extra one but I'm pretty sure the other side is stuck also.

Any advice would be great! Thanks!

KC

 

I remember that they were VERY tight (135lb torque spec IIRC), but I was able to do it by opposing two large closed end wrenches (one for the bolt head, and one for the nut) and then pushing and pulling them at the same time. . . well that, and a few select words of 'encouragement' for the bolt. G/L


maybe soak them with some penetrating lube first?!

 

are you talking about the front lca? have you tried an impact wrench?

 

Thanks guys....

....but I guess I wasn't too clear. The nut came off no problem. The problem is that the bolt is stuck to the inner sleeve of the bushing.

This is one of the reasons I finally decided to replace the bushings. I noticed awhile back, when trying to do an alignment, that the bolt wasn't turning in the sleeve it was just twisting the bushing.

KC

 

beat the crap out of it w/ a hammer

 

^^ uh, uh, uh .......thread the nut back on enough to protect the bolt threads and THEN beat on the nut with a hammer

 

Well got the drivers side out. Just heated it up then sprayed it with PB Blaster several times. After every spray I would turn it with the wrench. It finally came loose and I was able to gently tap it out with a hammer.

The passenger side is being more difficult. I probably spent an hour heating/spraying/turning with a few hammer taps in there and nothing so far. But I think it's because I haven't taken everything else apart yet. On the drivers side, I already had everything else apart before getting to the lower arm. I think with everything else loose or gone, the arm had enough slack in it so that the cam on the bolt was past the frame stops. Simply put, I could turn the bolt more. Right now, its binding on the frame versus turning as much as possible against the bushing.

I'm about done with the drivers side, I need to get some better wire brushes to get the last small layer of rubber out but otherwise it shouldn't take long.

Replacing control arm bushings is definately on my "never to do again list" BTW. It's allot of work!

KC

 

Sounds like you're making good progress.

Make sure to lube the new bushing up very, very well so you don't have to repeat this whole dis-assembly again (for re-lube) before you've had ample time to forget the pain.

 

I finally got it. Finished up last night and drove to the store even. I will update my other thread a bit later.

After heating/spraying/hammering for quite a bit longer, the busing broke before the bolt came out. Trying to turn the bolt just turned the bushing within the control arm. So I then resorted to mostly hammering, which didn't budge it.

So, I finally used the air hammer with a straight chisel bit. I wedged the bit between the bolts hex head and the cam washer and chiseled away at it, pushing the hammer against the bolt head as if I were using a pry bar. It eventually started to creep out. I then sprayed some PB Blaster on it and hammered it back in. Did this a few times and it finally came free completely. I had taken the nut off for hammering since I was starting to detroy it. I had to grind the end of the bolt where it had mushroomed a bit before attempting to pull it all the way out. Good thing I had a new bolt.

My alignment is of course WAY off but everything else seemed fine on the short drive I took.

KC

 

i had to go through same thing it is such a pain in the a#$ glad you got it done

 

makes me appreciate NO RUST cali cars FTW!

 

Man you got lucky! Mine didnt even budge. I had to take the crossmember out and pound on the bolt with 5 lb hammer, and it still didnt come out.

I took it to the shop to get the bolts cutoff with a torch, but they melted the crossmember . I had to order everything new, including the crossmember(used).....Yeah that was fun

 

Definately a PITA.

My car isn't really rusty. It's got some corrosion (not really rust though) but not bad at all. I bought the car in Georgia and live in Charlotte, NC. We of course get more snow (resulting in salted roads) than Cali but not much.

LEX_MAN, your pain actually makes me feel a little better. LOL. If you ever have the problem again try the air chisel method I used. The bolt really has no choice but to move.

After my initial alignment (tomorrow) I will likely pull the bolts out, re-grease and re-align every few months just to make sure I don't have the problem again.

KC

 

man i feel even luckier b/c mines came out easily but the only hard part was burning all the rubber out and cleaning the inside of the control arms. haven't driven my car since the install but i'm betting that's the reason why my car always makes a screeching noise when i take off from a stop plus i could literally wiggle the passenger side lca before i removed it. will need a alignment as well.

 

I just experienced this lovely problem while removing two rear lower control arms. The bolts are seized to the metal bushing sleeve. Didn't have this problem with the front at all. I heated the inner sleeve with a torch, pounded on it with a 4 lb. hammer forever, tried using a pickle fork to break it loose and it didn't budge. Its like the bolt has welded itself to the metal sleeve. So now I'm just going to attempt to cut the bolts off as soon as I can get my hands on a sawzall. I wish I would of known this ahead of time....