Roof problems develop after how much use?
For those who have had SC retractable roof problems, please share with us approximately how many times each year (and how many years) you retracted your roof before it gave you problems.
Is this a problem if one only retracts a few times per month during the summer?
Just curious.
Thanks!
Marty
Is this a problem if one only retracts a few times per month during the summer?
Just curious.
Thanks!
Marty
As I recall, many of this forum members have used it everyday and not having problem. I used it every weekend for the last eight months and have no issue. There is the thread that suggests the lubrication of the moving components. Just search for it.
That this thread begins after a discussion of lubricating the moving parts of the retractable roof is completely appropriate because enough resistance will cause the roof operation to cancel. If you think about it you wouldn't want it any other way.
My top was finicky and I didn't dare stop its retraction mid-stream because I'd be pulling off the positive cable and waiting for the roof module to drain.
I had a conventional battery with recessed cell caps and it would go dead if I didn't drive for a couple days. When I trickle charged it the darn thing hissed for several minutes after I disconnected the clamps.
I opened the left- most cap and there was seemingly no water so I filled it and continued with my automotive Kabuki.
One night I failed to close the trunk like completely and the trunk lights finally killed the battery forever.
I got in my other car and drove to my local Interstate store. I bought an AGM battery with a lot of reserve time and cranking amps.
My roof works perfectly every time and my theory is that if the roof strains from lack of lube or draining battery, the module thinks its resistance from a foreign object and cancels operation.
These cars NEED a strong battery. (I also opted for LED trunk lights)
My top was finicky and I didn't dare stop its retraction mid-stream because I'd be pulling off the positive cable and waiting for the roof module to drain.
I had a conventional battery with recessed cell caps and it would go dead if I didn't drive for a couple days. When I trickle charged it the darn thing hissed for several minutes after I disconnected the clamps.
I opened the left- most cap and there was seemingly no water so I filled it and continued with my automotive Kabuki.
One night I failed to close the trunk like completely and the trunk lights finally killed the battery forever.
I got in my other car and drove to my local Interstate store. I bought an AGM battery with a lot of reserve time and cranking amps.
My roof works perfectly every time and my theory is that if the roof strains from lack of lube or draining battery, the module thinks its resistance from a foreign object and cancels operation.
These cars NEED a strong battery. (I also opted for LED trunk lights)
That this thread begins after a discussion of lubricating the moving parts of the retractable roof is completely appropriate because enough resistance will cause the roof operation to cancel. If you think about it you wouldn't want it any other way.
My top was finicky and I didn't dare stop its retraction mid-stream because I'd be pulling off the positive cable and waiting for the roof module to drain.
I had a conventional battery with recessed cell caps and it would go dead if I didn't drive for a couple days. When I trickle charged it the darn thing hissed for several minutes after I disconnected the clamps.
I opened the left- most cap and there was seemingly no water so I filled it and continued with my automotive Kabuki.
One night I failed to close the trunk like completely and the trunk lights finally killed the battery forever.
I got in my other car and drove to my local Interstate store. I bought an AGM battery with a lot of reserve time and cranking amps.
My roof works perfectly every time and my theory is that if the roof strains from lack of lube or draining battery, the module thinks its resistance from a foreign object and cancels operation.
These cars NEED a strong battery. (I also opted for LED trunk lights)
My top was finicky and I didn't dare stop its retraction mid-stream because I'd be pulling off the positive cable and waiting for the roof module to drain.
I had a conventional battery with recessed cell caps and it would go dead if I didn't drive for a couple days. When I trickle charged it the darn thing hissed for several minutes after I disconnected the clamps.
I opened the left- most cap and there was seemingly no water so I filled it and continued with my automotive Kabuki.
One night I failed to close the trunk like completely and the trunk lights finally killed the battery forever.
I got in my other car and drove to my local Interstate store. I bought an AGM battery with a lot of reserve time and cranking amps.
My roof works perfectly every time and my theory is that if the roof strains from lack of lube or draining battery, the module thinks its resistance from a foreign object and cancels operation.
These cars NEED a strong battery. (I also opted for LED trunk lights)
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Really? When I had the dealer install mine last year I think, I had them install the highest amperage unit they have. I would have to go back and search my records regarding my install but my clouded brain thought 100 was the best. Regardless. 🤔 The top should really be cycled while the car is running. A weak battery will mess up your day in sooo many ways.🤨
Paul
Paul
It strikes me that since most of us are 2nd or 3rd owners the characteristic inconveniences are novel to us and will continue to be until the world comes to an end
( Try saying THAT about a Mercedes-Benz!)
( Try saying THAT about a Mercedes-Benz!)
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