I had the idea overnight that the trunk lock would be a much easier one to access for checking the key code, so I pulled back the panel this morning on the '98, which I know the code for. The trunk lock cylinder has the code in the same spot, mostly covered by the lock sensor. Unfortunately, it doesn't match the known code for the doors and ignition. The non-valet cylinders must be coded differently.

Luxor, any idea if the trunk key code is a subset of the door lock code, and if knowing one can be used to look up the other?

 

When I got my SC 400, it came with three keys: an original Master (everything worked), another Master (wouldn't start ignition but would open doors and rear hatch) and a valet. I had to reprogram the second Master and everything worked as it should. There is a series of steps to do this. If you do a google search, you'll find it.

Here's is one set of instructions (I had a different one also. Not sure this is the correct one). Good Luck!

Reprogramming Lexus key

Programing Instructions for Lexus Keyless Remote:

1. Start with key out of switch, driver’s door open, all other doors and trunk closed, doors unlocked.

2. Insert key in ignition, DO NOT TURN ON, and remove key.

3. Using drivers side power door lock button, lock and unlock doors 5 times within 40 seconds, ending with doors unlocked.

4. Close driver’s door and open it. Again lock and unlock doors 5 times within 40 seconds, ending with doors unlocked.

5. Insert key into ignition and turn from LOCK to ON to LOCK one time. Remove key from ignition.

6. Door locks will cycle one time.

7. Press lock button on transmitter for at least one second. Door locks will cycle.

10. Within 20 seconds, close drivers door and open it and press button on transmtter again for at least one second.

11. Door locks will cycle. Wait 20 seconds and registration will be completed.


**if it does not work, start over from beginning, it may take several attempts. If it does not work, contact your local dealer.

Keymam.com

TYPE B

Lexus Key and Remote Programming


Key Programming 1. Insert an already programmed master key into the ignition. Do not turn.
2. Press and release the gas pedal 5 times.
3. Press and release the brake pedal 6 times.
4. Remove the key from the ignition.
5. Insert the new key you want to program into the ignition.
6. Press and release the gas pedal one time.
7. Wait 1 minute. The security light will be blinking for this one minute. When it stops blinking your

key is programmed. To end programming step on brake one time.
NOTE: Look for your security light. This light will guide you during the programming procedure. The security light will go off at Step 1. It will remain off until Step 6. The security light will come on and start to blink after Step 6 until the key is programmed. If the security light comes on after Step 4 STOP the procedure and start over again.

If you perform this procedure too slowly your car will not go into programming mode. If you can not get your car to go into programming mode make sure you are using a master key and not a valet key.

If you have a master key then you will probably need to perform this procedure more quickly.


Remote Programming 1. Close and lock all doors. Unlock and open drivers door.
2. Put key into ignition and remove. Do not turn it on.
3. Using the electric lock switch. Lock and unlock 5 times. (Lock, Unlock, Lock, Unlock, Lock, Unlock, Lock, Unlock, Lock, Unlock)
4. Close and open drivers door.
5. Using the electric lock switch. Lock and unlock 5 times. (Lock, Unlock, Lock, Unlock, Lock, Unlock,Lock, Unlock, Lock, Unlock)
6. Put key into ignition. Turn to "ON", turn off and remove.
7. You will see the door locks cycle by themselves.

If the door locks do not cycle (lock and unlock) by themselves then the car isn’t in programming mode and you must start over.

8. On the remote, press and hold the LOCK and the UNLOCK button at the same time for no more than 2 seconds.
9. On the remote, press the LOCK button for no more than 1 second.

AT THIS POINT, the locks should cycle by themselves ONE time. This means the procedure was accepted.

IF the locks cycle twice it has failed.

The most common reason for programming failure is because the car didn’t receive a good signal from the remote. To fix this problem try these tips. 1) Stand outside of the car while you are performing steps 8 and 9. 2) Don’t hold the remote buttons down as long.

As long as the car is still in programming mode you can keep trying steps 8 and 9 until you complete the programming. If you wait too long and the car exits the programming mode then you must start over.

After you get the remote to program then continue on with step 10.

10. Close and open door to end programming procedure.

 

My dealer cuts replacement keys by tracing the original key. VIN cuts are only made when customers have completely lost their keys and have solid proof of ownership of their Lexus. When we trace the keys, it gives us a code and the code should match the code on the lock cylinders. The key machine will not give any code if the key is worn down pretty badly.

You should try going to another dealer since every dealer is a little different.

 

I looked up key code related stuff in the Lexus library and I didn't see anything regarding key codes at all. So I doubt there are any subset door lock codes .

 

Oh well, worth a shot. Thanks for checking.

 

If I remember correctly there was a shop online that offered this service. By sending them your vin and they had the ability to recut new factory keys from it for about 75$?

I needed a spare key so I went out and found the site at that time. And I think they even offered theirr service on eBay.

 

Golden95SC, take a look at the previous replies.

 

Thanks for the suggestions. I'll try some of these to work out the issue.

I had another issue that I don't think is related. The transmitter unlocks and locks the passenger door as it should but does not unlock or lock the drivers door. I do hear clicking at the driver's door latch. I removed the door panel and the mechanism is hard to access. The hard key unlocks and locks the door as it should. Any ideas?

Thanks
Dennis

 

Weird, I'm dealing with the exact same thing on the SC300, but with the power lock/unlock (from either control switch or the passenger lock, which locks/unlocks both) not the transmitter. I swapped in a used lock actuator because the rod was broken from rolling down the window, and I'm not sure whether the replacement mechanism was fully functional.

What I've noticed is the driver's side actuator appears to be trying to move the lock button, but isn't quite strong enough to do so. You can see a little wiggle to the button when the noise is triggered. So, I'm thinking it's an issue with a tired lock actuator. I had to replace the window actuator at the same time, which made the lock assembly significantly easier to get to. I'm not looking forward to doing that again with the window rail still in place.

 

I found a possible solution:

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc-...ml#post2492391

I'll give that a try as soon as I hook the power back up. I looked at the old lock actuator and it's definitely a threaded end cap that the white clip on the lock cable goes over, so there could well be something to that.

Edit: Tried it out and no luck, even though the barrels on the good and bad doors were previously adjusted a couple threads differently.

 

Can you hear the motor spinning when you click the transmitter? I know on the 2GS and other lexus/toyota models the door lock actuator motors burn out with time. I don't think it is a common issue on the SC, but it is worth looking into.

 

I got around to trying this and this worked. I was able to program the chip on the new master key using the valet key. So the line about using a master key and not a valet key is not correct.

So now I have a master key that works in the ignition and doors, starts the car and all three buttons on the remote work. It still does not work in the trunk, glove box, and trunk lever release. The sides of the key do have a raised edge unlike the valet key that has a flat edge.

At least I'm getting closer.

Thanks,
Dennis

 

I won't describe it as a motor spinning but I do hear a click near the lock mechanism when I hit the transmitter.