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left door lock doesnt work

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Old Aug 28, 2006 | 07:55 PM
  #16  
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lsflame
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^^^^^^^^^post pics of where you turning. I have the same problem and just began living with the manual door locks. I tried lubing the whole thing and was even about to replace the door lock assemblies. But gave up my car is also a 1993.
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Old Aug 28, 2006 | 08:07 PM
  #17  
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I don't think lubeing will work in my case, the switch doesnt go all the way over. Tried powering it with a power supply too inorder to try to knock it lose with a longer instance of power. Didn't work. The thing draws a good amount of current. I plan on eventually replacing the unit when I can get more help on trying to get it out. For now I have to live with manual door locks.

Haha, group buy on sc door lock assemblies. Hahaha.

Edit: I put the car back together. I'll take pictures next time I disassemble it. There are screws for the window guide that you can reach by poping out the plastic plugs that are along the inner edge of the door. On mine, one plug is clearwitish and the other one is black.

Last edited by silkiechic; Aug 28, 2006 at 08:10 PM.
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Old Aug 29, 2006 | 04:15 PM
  #18  
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hmm i have a 93 and bada bing same thing happend just as described. intermittent operation, then it just twitched, i'd f with the handle it got better but it is totally out now. oh and the f ing window goes up and down slow and some times when it rains it barley moves. i also noticed the bottom of the door panel has water damage on the inside of the panel at the bottom(carpeted part) the dam door rubber looks torn maybe there is corrosion inside?
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Old Aug 29, 2006 | 05:14 PM
  #19  
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Hmm. I don't have any water dmage, but in your case, I wouldn't be surprised if your door stopped working partially due to water getting in. But... also though, the interior wet is probally a bad seal around the door. The inner door where the assembilies are have areas where water can get in and out at the bottom. Some moisture gets in there via window and the door handle. There is a plastic shield over the hole where all that stuff is and that helps keep moisture out of the car its self. But hey, if both are going out, might as well change both at the same time!

Yeah, I'm confusing... I'll have pics in about three weeks when I tear back into it
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Old Aug 30, 2006 | 10:47 AM
  #20  
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my driver door did the same thing, i swapped in my 1jz and then it worked fine?! i thought that mayby something had to be reset, kinda like with the key alarm or something, but then my battery and starter were killed, i replaced that and started her up again and it the lock doesnt work again...
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Old Aug 30, 2006 | 11:48 AM
  #21  
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Yeah, maybe the first time yours got stuck and changing things out, gave it an extra jolt from the battery and it unstuck it. To flip the switch it takes about 12V and 7A. It momentairly sucks up a good amount of power.
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Old Mar 17, 2007 | 06:06 PM
  #22  
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i know this is an old thread, but my friend has a similar problem, his pasenger side door doesnt lock with the remote, but it does with the key and manual switching of the door lock. however, it doesnt "twitch" like the ones people here are experiencing, is it an actuator problem as well? hes been ignoring this for a LOOOONg time until recently i bought an sc and both sides of mine works lol thats when he realize how simple life is with things working.
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Old Mar 18, 2007 | 09:28 AM
  #23  
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I don't have any idea what is wrong, but since it got down to freezing... My door locks work again! It's seasonal.
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Old Mar 18, 2007 | 05:24 PM
  #24  
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I have the same problem with my passenger side door. it just twitches when i try and lock it. anyone have any exp with replacing their actuator? I took all the panels/wiring off ect. then the three torx screws on the side of the door that actually hold the locking mechanism in place but there isn't enough room to work with. any diy info would be useful.
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Old Mar 18, 2007 | 06:51 PM
  #25  
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remove the lower screw that holds the window rail, that will give you more slack to pull the unit out.
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Old Mar 18, 2007 | 08:18 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by aliga
remove the lower screw that holds the window rail, that will give you more slack to pull the unit out.
Ahhhh, I was hoping no one would say that. the screw to the window rail is stripped. looks like I'll have to drill the screw out. wanted to avoid that but oh well, it has to be done.

Aliga, paypal was sent for the acuator. Thanks.

David

Last edited by HmoobSC300; Mar 18, 2007 at 08:23 PM.
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Old Mar 18, 2007 | 08:25 PM
  #27  
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I had this problem when I first got the car (got a 92 like 3 years ago) it was a problem with the tension in the wire, fixed it by adjusting the plastic piece near the end of the wire. If I remember correctly turning one way tightens it and other loosens it.

edit: (I should explain, it's the tension between the plastic piece and the 3 inches away where it connects to interior door lock. If it's too loose it doesn't move anything I think)

I can't remember if it was that the lock wasn't moving at all....or that it would only move one way...but I would mess with that before replacing parts.
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Old Mar 18, 2007 | 09:04 PM
  #28  
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haha ever since i had my car ive had that problem on the passenger side. and sometimes my windows do go up slow. weiird

i havea 93 -_-
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Old Apr 1, 2007 | 03:57 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by ryansong
and sometimes my windows do go up slow. weiird
That could just be the window rails needing to be greased. In cars as old as yours and mine, the lube wear away.
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