Hi guys,

My tailgate doesn't seem to be opening at all unless I crawl into my trunk to open the emergency hatch. After the tailgate is open using the emergency hatch, I have to manually shut it (the autoclose button does not work). I tried using the buttons on my FOB, driver seat, and the power rear button on the tailgate. I've also tried the valet button which cuts off the power to the tailgate. I can't open it manually from the outside (however, I did check the owner's manual and it did say the dealership can set the tailgate to automatic or manual mode-- regardless, I'm unsure about which mode it is in). Interestingly, pressing the power rear button on the tailgate or the circular button next to it does unlock/lock my car (as evidenced by the mirrors opening and closing, but I don't know if I can hear if the lock actuator motor is actually unlocking/locking the trunk). There are no beeps when I try to activate the power rear button.

I did take it to the Lexus dealership, and they gave me a code u0230. They recommended that I replace the lift cylinders and the lift actuator (part 68910-0E026), which would cost upward of 2400 dollars.

I'm a bit skeptical that the motor has failed given that I also can't open it manually either from the outside. If the lift actuator (ie the rear hatch motor) isn't functioning, shouldn't I still be able to open the tailgate manually from the outside? If not, how does the schematic work? Does the signal travel to the lift actuator first and then to the lock actuator, lock actuator then to the lift actuator, or do they all have separate wirings? In the case of the latter two instances, wouldn't I be able to open it manually then?

Thanks for your time, and I'm open to any insights.

 

This has been asked before and you will learn more about your problem by reading these threads.
​​​​​​https://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-...need-help.html
​​​​​​https://www.lexusownersclub.co.uk/fo...rx450h/?page=3
​​​​​​https://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-...ce-a-week.html
​​​​​​https://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-...et-button.html
​​​​​​https://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-...pen-issue.html

General info on code U230 https://www.obd-codes.com/u0230

I would first replace the lift cylinders as they are inexpensive and help the motor lift and lower the hatch. Get them here:https://www.liftsupportsdepot.com/?c...xoClQIQAvD_BwE

There are used motors on eBay and how to replace it yourself videos on YouTube or have a local shop do it for far less than the dealer. But the code needs to be investigated further as discussed in the links.

 

The rear hatch release is electro-mechanical. It seems there is an issue with mechanism as you can bypass it by crawling in the hatch and moving the actual latch arm.

You need some one to investigate if the release signal is coming to the actuator or the actual actuator is busted (signal comes but it fails to move). You should be able to procure the release from a salvage yard or even ebay but verify before purchasing a part.

The other discussion on struts and auto-open/close has been well documented in the threads Culthless has been kind enough to collate for you.

Salim
PS: If you had some thing snagged in the release mechanism, the actual part may be bent and the electro-mechanical actuator may not have the strength to overcome it. Body shop can help if you feel the fix is beyond your skill/tools_availability.

 

mine was intermittent. I finally had to replace the actuator assembly I had my local body shop do the work. About $1100. Now works fine

 

And you will be far better off going to a reputable body shop as opposed to a dealership. Not only does a body shop have more expertise regarding this issue, but they are also far less likely to gouge your wallet from a repair cost standpoint.

 

Thanks!

 

salimshah, When you talk about the actuator, do you mean the motor that moves the lock mechanism or the motor that moves the lift gate?

 

I am referring to the actuator that lifts the tailgate. It is located in the ceiling under the headliner. The body shop knows how to remove the trim. Actual replacement is very easy.

 

by the description it seems the issue is with the lock (hatch release). Once the hatch is released the balance [the tail gate should almost stay at any position on its own] will be the struts issue. Power close and lift willl be the motor issue [again the release/lock should release and the struts should be able to balance].

Salim

 

I read through the entire Lexus UK thread here: LINK
What I gathered was that
(A) Problem is weather dependent, with most failures during cold spells.
(B) The 12v battery needs to be in top shape - check it with multimeter, and/or at competent shop. Replace as necessary. Several reports of hatch motor starting to work again spontaneously after several-hour high-speed trips, which may have topped-off 12v battery
(C) Many reports of moisture on motor circuit board, causing a problem with motor operation.
(D) Many reports of moisture found between roof & headliner, where the tailgate motor lives.
Water appears to be coming from roof rack mounting points/holes. Sealing the holes with a waterproof adhesive advised.
(E) Rear Hatch support struts that are weak may add to the problem, putting additional strain on motor??
Preventive maintence w/ new struts advised. $18-$40/pair @ Amazon

CONJECTURE BY THREAD PARTICIPANTS:Re-Initializing procedure from one guy: Maybe it works?.
Hope the above helps someone.
FWIW, I ordered a new set of struts for my car this evening. They're dying; don't want the door using my head as a support.
.

 

I would say hold off on ordering or don't unpackaged the struts just yet.

Please do not use the internet to conclude what is wrong/needs_replacement. Use the information to understand the bigger picture and gain insight as to how the things work.

Narrow it down to lock/release or balance issue.

If it is balance issue then yes struts are the logical culprit.

If the lock/release is stuck then no amount of counter lift [against the weight of the hatch] will work. With a stuck lock/release as a human you would not be able to lift the hatch. Once the release works yes with bad struts you will be lifting the weight of the hatch.

The struts are pneumatically operated. Based on temperature the pneumatic counter force gets diminished and with age the pressurized gas escapes.

There is always the possibility that both the late/release and the struts are bad.

As a final test:
Release the lock [crawling in the hatch area]. Step outside and lift the hatch. If you have to fight the weigh then struts need to be replaced. If the hatch is leather-weight or light then the struts have useful life.

Salim

 

Salim....
Your advice may well be good. However you don't know my situation. When it's cold enough if I raise the rear hatch, then release it, will slowly fall.
Those struts are weak. I've seen the same problem on the hoods of a convertible and a sedan I've owned.
The fix costs a fat $20-$30, why hesitate?

 

This for sure means bad struts.

OPs message kept my mind on latch/release.

Salim