Knock sensor issue.
Thread Starter
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Jan 2019
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From: Tennessee
Knock sensor issue.
I currently own a 2001 Rx300 with 167,000 My current issue is a knock sensor issue. The first Code that came up was a P0330 code. Knock sensor circuit bank 2. Before I got to replacing that sensor the vehicle started running rough. And I got a valve timing code. Dont currently remember the code. But anyways I replaced both knock sensors and the circuit that comes off of them. I also replaced the vvt solenoids, camshaft position sensors, the coolant temp sensor, and the bypass hose under the intake. All said and done the CEL stayed off for about a week then came back on yesterday. The code that came up today is a P0325. Knock sensor bank 1. The car also wont shift at the 60mph mark carrying about 3750 RPM. Can someone point me at something else that could be the issue. With out me having to shell out another 150 bucks.
Lexus Test Driver
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,058
Likes: 126
From: Illinois
Great job on the work.
OEM parts?
It's possible that the knock sensor connector on Bank 1 wasnt fully clicked in and worked itself out.
Or knock sensor not torqued enough that the sensor itself is loose on the block threads.
Hate for you to take it apart again and check your work but i'd start from that.
BTW, if you cleared the code, does the code come right back up?
OEM parts?
It's possible that the knock sensor connector on Bank 1 wasnt fully clicked in and worked itself out.
Or knock sensor not torqued enough that the sensor itself is loose on the block threads.
Hate for you to take it apart again and check your work but i'd start from that.
BTW, if you cleared the code, does the code come right back up?
Thread Starter
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Jan 2019
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
From: Tennessee
Great job on the work.
OEM parts?
It's possible that the knock sensor connector on Bank 1 wasnt fully clicked in and worked itself out.
Or knock sensor not torqued enough that the sensor itself is loose on the block threads.
Hate for you to take it apart again and check your work but i'd start from that.
BTW, if you cleared the code, does the code come right back up?
OEM parts?
It's possible that the knock sensor connector on Bank 1 wasnt fully clicked in and worked itself out.
Or knock sensor not torqued enough that the sensor itself is loose on the block threads.
Hate for you to take it apart again and check your work but i'd start from that.
BTW, if you cleared the code, does the code come right back up?
Lexus Test Driver
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,058
Likes: 126
From: Illinois
What i meant to say is clear the code now.
Start it up at idle and does the light come back on right away?
Or does it take a while of driving to spit that code again (325)?
Its a simple wiring.
Just 1 wire from the knock sensor to the ECU.
I doubt its a bad ECU or a wiring problem ( but not discounting them) since you didnt have the 325 before.
Maybe, just maybe, one on the new knock sensors you have is a faulty one. (bank 1)
Thread Starter
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Jan 2019
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
From: Tennessee
What i meant to say is clear the code now.
Start it up at idle and does the light come back on right away?
Or does it take a while of driving to spit that code again (325)?
Its a simple wiring.
Just 1 wire from the knock sensor to the ECU.
I doubt its a bad ECU or a wiring problem ( but not discounting them) since you didnt have the 325 before.
Maybe, just maybe, one on the new knock sensors you have is a faulty one. (bank 1)
Start it up at idle and does the light come back on right away?
Or does it take a while of driving to spit that code again (325)?
Its a simple wiring.
Just 1 wire from the knock sensor to the ECU.
I doubt its a bad ECU or a wiring problem ( but not discounting them) since you didnt have the 325 before.
Maybe, just maybe, one on the new knock sensors you have is a faulty one. (bank 1)
Last edited by Birddog1; Jan 5, 2019 at 06:45 AM.
CL Community Team
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 16,557
Likes: 1,385
From: Austin, TX
Juts throwing this out as a possibility.
There maybe carbon build up or bad timing which is actually causing engine knock.
Another possibility is the coolant is low and the head is becoming excessively hot and as the fuel air get combined you are getting pre-ignition.
You can also run the tank low [dont try to run empty] and add premium gas as that has a tendency to reduce pre-ignition.
Based on milage the knock sensor going bad is a reasonable diagnosis but engine can knock.
Salim
There maybe carbon build up or bad timing which is actually causing engine knock.
Another possibility is the coolant is low and the head is becoming excessively hot and as the fuel air get combined you are getting pre-ignition.
You can also run the tank low [dont try to run empty] and add premium gas as that has a tendency to reduce pre-ignition.
Based on milage the knock sensor going bad is a reasonable diagnosis but engine can knock.
Salim
Thread Starter
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Jan 2019
Posts: 15
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From: Tennessee
Everything looked good plug wise though I did replace those and checked the coils while I had the plenum off. Coolant is full due to me replacing that bypass hose under the intake. And replacing the coolant temp sensor
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Lexus Test Driver
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,058
Likes: 126
From: Illinois
Assuming you have ruled out Salim's possibilities, we can also rule out a wiring problem since it doesnt throw it at idle.
My gut feeling is an bad knock sensor in bank 1.
I know its new and OEM but its just coincidence that it threw it after the work was done.
And you had the original code in the other bank.
Without proper diagnostic tools to see waveforms and such, we are just guessing at this point.
Any possibility you can hook up an OBD tester to see freeze frame of the code?
My gut feeling is an bad knock sensor in bank 1.
I know its new and OEM but its just coincidence that it threw it after the work was done.
And you had the original code in the other bank.
Without proper diagnostic tools to see waveforms and such, we are just guessing at this point.
Any possibility you can hook up an OBD tester to see freeze frame of the code?
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Thread Starter
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Jan 2019
Posts: 15
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From: Tennessee
So on the freeze frame data I looked at today everything looked good. Timing was at 10 degrees, no misses anywhere in any cylinder. Everything looks good like I said. When tapping the block with the scan tool hooked up the knock sensors worked correctly according to the scan tool
Driver School Candidate
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From: PA
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Jan 2019
Posts: 16
Likes: 2
From: PA
Lexus Test Driver
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,058
Likes: 126
From: Illinois