bobbirkel

this should help

Birddog1

That was the two. I'm partially color blind so a buddy helped me out with them.

Birddog1

And I'm not sure if this would matter or not. But on the live data my mass air flow was reading 0.02 lbs at 1500rpm and intake air temp read 75 even though its 55 degrees

Birddog1

And I had seen that post before so that was why I thought we had it right when we did it.

bobbirkel

I usually use grams per second measurement. Which would be roughly one gram for every liter of the engine size. Which would typically be around 3 to 4 at idle. But if you convert grams per second to pounds per second it's usually around 2 hundredths so I would say that reading is correct. Also the engine room temperature is what's causing the variation from 55 to 75 degrees. I don't believe that's anything to worry about. You can try cleaning the thermistor inside the mass airflow sensor and see if they that cleans it up a bit. But that will not explain anything to do with the circuit issue with the knock sensor.

Birddog1

Didnt think so. I'm just at a loss on this thing. I'd hate to shell out the cash to replace the ECM and that not fix it. That's 600 bucks for a Reman at least that was what lexus in nashville quoted me.

bobbirkel

don't forget immobilizer programming is in the ecm also. I would like to know if the pin fit is good from the connector to ecm

Birddog1

The pin fit tight but I dont currently have my DVOM close to check for any continuity

Nad1370

Lets summarize it.
Original code was a 330 (Bank 2)
New KS OEM
New KS harness OEM
325 (Bank 1) spits out after driving.
No pre-ignition/detonation ect... detected per OP.
325 code stays after swapping B1 and B2 pins to the ECU. (no change)

If you dont see any corrosion (green stuff) around the ecu KS pin for Bank1 and pin fit is tight, its very safe to say your next step is the ECU.

It just bugs me after your repair on the 330 code, this problem appeared.
Might be just coincidence but baffling to me.

bobbirkel

baffling for sure!

Birddog1

Baffling to say the least. I'm on my last straw with it. An instructor of mine is both a lexus master tech and was the lead electronics guy for the lexus he worked at and I asked him the same things about 45 minutes ago. He's baffled just as much as you guys are he really doesnt know where else to look besides replacing the entire harness

bobbirkel

the only thing I can think of besides everything we already stated, check the connection of your splice.

Birddog1

I will. If anybody thinks of anything else I would be glad to hear it. By the time it's all said and done itll be a brand new car

Nad1370

salimshah

my 2c:

We are all going by hunches. Lexus Master tech (with the electronics as his major) has the distinct advantage of knowing what part fails.

But, nothing is based on measurements.

I would say just scope the signals and overlay over each other to see if the ECU is getting the right signal [lot easier as we know that one is good].

Salim